new boat-31" Victory off shore cat updated 31/12
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new boat-31" Victory off shore cat updated 31/12
I just bought this boat on ebay. it was a bit of an impulse buy, but i think that from what i can tell in the pictures that it has a good platform for mods down the track. what do you guys recon. prop is a 38mm not 78mm as indicated in the ebay ad.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....1642&rd=1&rd=1
This will be my first nitro boat, having had a couple of basic electrics and a modded kysho surfer. I have a few years experience with nitro trucks and electric crawlers. I love to customise and modify my rides. At first I will keep the boat stock, but a I know a bigger motor is in this boats future, probably a .21 or so. Some thing reliable!
Ben.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....1642&rd=1&rd=1
This will be my first nitro boat, having had a couple of basic electrics and a modded kysho surfer. I have a few years experience with nitro trucks and electric crawlers. I love to customise and modify my rides. At first I will keep the boat stock, but a I know a bigger motor is in this boats future, probably a .21 or so. Some thing reliable!
Ben.
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RE: new boat
everything looks good, just check the water cooling jacket on the head before you run it. Make sure you have adequate space for water to flow, and if needed cut with a dremal.
#9
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RE: new boat
That's a lot of boat for a .15 unless it's built light.
In comparison, the Aeromarine Mean Machine .18 hull is the same size as their .21/.45 Cat hulls at 29 inches and is still underpowered.
It is a good looking boat so I can see how you bought it on impulse, you'll have to let us know how it performs.
In comparison, the Aeromarine Mean Machine .18 hull is the same size as their .21/.45 Cat hulls at 29 inches and is still underpowered.
It is a good looking boat so I can see how you bought it on impulse, you'll have to let us know how it performs.
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RE: new boat
I have the .18 version of your motor in a CPV Racing mono, its a nicely powerful motor for the hull (a 24" mono)
Oh and stock that had a 42mm x 1,2 pitch plastic prop, which I haven't got around to upgrading yet.
Oh and stock that had a 42mm x 1,2 pitch plastic prop, which I haven't got around to upgrading yet.
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RE: new boat
Hey cyclesoul, nice boat, what sort of $ did you pay for it! Curious to know if you have started the motor yet. If not you may be in for a nasty surprise, as it looks like an Infinity motor which I used to have. I had nothing but trouble with mine and in the end had to get rid of it out of pure frustration and on the advise of a fellow modeler. It was so tight from new that I kept breaking the pullstart, even after lossening the glow plug and first lubing motor with oil. After I did finally get it running it would not hold a descent tune....maybe I just got a bad one...good luck!
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RE: new boat
Mine has been running fine so far - it wasn't too tight and now it starts easily. its only stalled twice and they were both on the first (out of about seven) run.
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RE: new boat
It cost $199 USD which seems to be really good value. will be around $350 Ozzie at my door. Its not RTR but all it needs is the electronics, n I've got a enough of that stuff lying around. I havent got it yet, but will have it by next week.
Ron, what size motor should i look at putting in it down the track? .21, .32, .45 bigger??? This boat will be driven pretty damn hard (im wakebaording every other weekend this summer, so it will only get used when the water is to rough to ride!) and it will need to get up to speed pretty quick- we ride on a river. So im thinking a torquey motor, what would you recommend?
Ben
Ron, what size motor should i look at putting in it down the track? .21, .32, .45 bigger??? This boat will be driven pretty damn hard (im wakebaording every other weekend this summer, so it will only get used when the water is to rough to ride!) and it will need to get up to speed pretty quick- we ride on a river. So im thinking a torquey motor, what would you recommend?
Ben
#14
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RE: new boat
A decent .21 ought to let it haul the mail. Try it first stock and play around with it. Tweak the little things on it before moving up with a bigger engine. A stronger rudder linkage is one of the first things that I'd do to it and it'll cost you a dollar or two to fix.
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RE: new boat
Yeah i intend to give it a full going over before getting it wet, I've been lurking on these pages for a while now, so it will be interesting to see what i have learned! Im going to pull the motor and seal it, check how sturdy the hull is and reinforce if necisary etc, should be fun!
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RE: new boat-31" off shore cat.
found a OS MAX .18 cv-rx at a VERY good price. It comes with both a marine head and a normal head. Would this be a good upgrade or is it worth holding out for a .21. From what i have read this is a pretty balistic little motor. Though everything else i own has big block power, mmmm torque!
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RE: new boat
ORIGINAL: CARIMALI
Hey cyclesoul, nice boat, what sort of $ did you pay for it! Curious to know if you have started the motor yet. If not you may be in for a nasty surprise, as it looks like an Infinity motor which I used to have. I had nothing but trouble with mine and in the end had to get rid of it out of pure frustration and on the advise of a fellow modeler. It was so tight from new that I kept breaking the pullstart, even after lossening the glow plug and first lubing motor with oil. After I did finally get it running it would not hold a descent tune....maybe I just got a bad one...good luck!
Hey cyclesoul, nice boat, what sort of $ did you pay for it! Curious to know if you have started the motor yet. If not you may be in for a nasty surprise, as it looks like an Infinity motor which I used to have. I had nothing but trouble with mine and in the end had to get rid of it out of pure frustration and on the advise of a fellow modeler. It was so tight from new that I kept breaking the pullstart, even after lossening the glow plug and first lubing motor with oil. After I did finally get it running it would not hold a descent tune....maybe I just got a bad one...good luck!
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RE: new boat
Yep did all that even had an expert have ago at it with no sucess! Guess its like anything, you gonna get a bad egg at some stage!....look forward to hearing how you get on with yours.
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RE: new boat
Got the boat today, box was a bit squashed and i feared the worst, but has only a couple of minor marks on it. It weighs in at 1.65kg dry without electronics or fuel, that seems pretty light.
Im going to add-
an auto bailer- are they good? or am I better off with a bug
floatation
seal the hatch with some stick on rubber stuff I have
water pick up to water cool the exhaust (do you think this is neccissary??) seems like a good idea to me.
mod the rudder with a ball link etc.
Engine compartment is pretty tight, though a .21 would look the business in there I have found a cvr os .18 for a bit of a bargain, too good a price to let it go. I had planned just to use the std .15 for a while, but if i get the OS I can sell the .15 as new.
Ben
Oh yeah, it also has a TFL Hobby sticker inside the hull, does that mean anything to anybody??
Im going to add-
an auto bailer- are they good? or am I better off with a bug
floatation
seal the hatch with some stick on rubber stuff I have
water pick up to water cool the exhaust (do you think this is neccissary??) seems like a good idea to me.
mod the rudder with a ball link etc.
Engine compartment is pretty tight, though a .21 would look the business in there I have found a cvr os .18 for a bit of a bargain, too good a price to let it go. I had planned just to use the std .15 for a while, but if i get the OS I can sell the .15 as new.
Ben
Oh yeah, it also has a TFL Hobby sticker inside the hull, does that mean anything to anybody??
#20
My Feedback: (1)
RE: new boat-31" Victory off shore cat.
If you're going to upgrade the linkage you might as well go to a heavier rod while you're in there to get rid of any flexing problems.
You'd have to add 2 auto-bailers if you plan on using them, one in each sponson. They work OK until they get loaded up with gunk.
You'd have to add 2 auto-bailers if you plan on using them, one in each sponson. They work OK until they get loaded up with gunk.
#21
RE: new boat
I just finished a mono with the os.18cvr belt start boat 24in. 2-1/2 pound. Im impressed with the engine got it running strong. all I had for fuel was 30% heli cool power. heres a link to a couple pics of it running.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5041733/tm.htm
Is the wood inside the hull sealed cant tell in the pics you might want to seal it if it isnt. Looks Like a nice boat good price too. Dave
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5041733/tm.htm
Is the wood inside the hull sealed cant tell in the pics you might want to seal it if it isnt. Looks Like a nice boat good price too. Dave
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RE: new boat-31" Victory off shore cat.
ORIGINAL: Ron Olson
If you're going to upgrade the linkage you might as well go to a heavier rod while you're in there to get rid of any flexing problems.
You'd have to add 2 auto-bailers if you plan on using them, one in each sponson. They work OK until they get loaded up with gunk.
If you're going to upgrade the linkage you might as well go to a heavier rod while you're in there to get rid of any flexing problems.
You'd have to add 2 auto-bailers if you plan on using them, one in each sponson. They work OK until they get loaded up with gunk.
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RE: new boat
ORIGINAL: unclecrash
I just finished a mono with the os.18cvr belt start boat 24in. 2-1/2 pound. Im impressed with the engine got it running strong. all I had for fuel was 30% heli cool power. heres a link to a couple pics of it running.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5041733/tm.htm
Is the wood inside the hull sealed cant tell in the pics you might want to seal it if it isnt. Looks Like a nice boat good price too. Dave
I just finished a mono with the os.18cvr belt start boat 24in. 2-1/2 pound. Im impressed with the engine got it running strong. all I had for fuel was 30% heli cool power. heres a link to a couple pics of it running.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5041733/tm.htm
Is the wood inside the hull sealed cant tell in the pics you might want to seal it if it isnt. Looks Like a nice boat good price too. Dave
One newb question I have is how do i fill the tank!!! It is laying down, and has 3 hoses coming out, one for exhaust pressure, one for the carb and another that must be to fill it as the tank cannot be removed with the engine in the boat, do i need some kind of pump and should the end of the hose have a plug or cap on it????? hmmmmm......
#24
RE: new boat-31" Victory off shore cat.
Tower sells the .18 belt start for 87 bucks. This is how I seal my wood 30minute epoxy deluted with denatured alchol about 60e/40a mix the epoxy in a jar or epoxy cup then pour in the alchol. It will look like a big goo ball for a while just keep sturring until it melts into the alchol. I like to use a flux brush for soldiering to spread it. I put a coat wait about 10 or 15 min. and put another. I like 2or 3 coats by the 2 you will see it start to puddle a bit you dont need it super thick check it again after 15more min. if you are still seeing the grain add a third coat. I like diluting it this way I believe it soaks deeper into the wood. You could paint it but it will just add weight. I painted my one boat with acrylic urethane stuff is tough as nails but for sealing you will be able to get the epoxy to flow into all the cracks better also adding strength to any of the joints that might not have been glued good. The third is foe fueling it needs to be pluged. I use a 2 line tank I fuel mine from the carb line. This way I dont have to worrie if the plug is sealed or leaking. You can get an electric pump or a squeeze bottle or they make a hand crank pump that goes on top of a gallon. I think theres one just hold in hand and crank.
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RE: new boat-31" Victory off shore cat.
Anyone considering thinning epoxy might want to read this information from West Sytems before doing so: http://www.westsystem.com/webpages/userinfo/manual/
In particular, here's what they have to say about thinning with solvents:
There are epoxy-based products specifically designed to penetrate and reinforce rotted wood. These products, basically an epoxy thinned with solvents, do a good job of penetrating wood. But the solvents compromise the strength and moisture barrier properties of the epoxy. WEST SYSTEM epoxy can be thinned with solvents for greater penetration, but not without the same compromises in strength and moisture resistance. Acetone, toluene or MEK have been used to thin WEST SYSTEM epoxy and duplicate these penetrating epoxies with about the same effectiveness. If you chose to thin the epoxy, keep in mind that the strength and moisture protection of the epoxy are lost in proportion to the amount of solvent added.
There is a better solution to get good penetration without losing strength or moisture resistance. We recommend moderate heating of the repair area and the epoxy with a heat gun or heat lamp. The epoxy will have a lower viscosity and penetrate more deeply when it is warmed and contacts the warmed wood cavities and pores. Although the working life of the epoxy will be considerable shortened, slower hardeners (206, 207, 209) will have a longer working life and should penetrate more than 205 Hardener before they begin to gel. When the epoxy cures it will retain all of its strength and effectiveness as a moisture barrier, which we feel more than offsets any advantages gained by adding solvents to the epoxy.
And here's some more: http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/14/ThinningEpoxy.html
After reading these a couple years ago, I stopped thinning epoxy with solvents and switched to heating it up a bit.
In particular, here's what they have to say about thinning with solvents:
There are epoxy-based products specifically designed to penetrate and reinforce rotted wood. These products, basically an epoxy thinned with solvents, do a good job of penetrating wood. But the solvents compromise the strength and moisture barrier properties of the epoxy. WEST SYSTEM epoxy can be thinned with solvents for greater penetration, but not without the same compromises in strength and moisture resistance. Acetone, toluene or MEK have been used to thin WEST SYSTEM epoxy and duplicate these penetrating epoxies with about the same effectiveness. If you chose to thin the epoxy, keep in mind that the strength and moisture protection of the epoxy are lost in proportion to the amount of solvent added.
There is a better solution to get good penetration without losing strength or moisture resistance. We recommend moderate heating of the repair area and the epoxy with a heat gun or heat lamp. The epoxy will have a lower viscosity and penetrate more deeply when it is warmed and contacts the warmed wood cavities and pores. Although the working life of the epoxy will be considerable shortened, slower hardeners (206, 207, 209) will have a longer working life and should penetrate more than 205 Hardener before they begin to gel. When the epoxy cures it will retain all of its strength and effectiveness as a moisture barrier, which we feel more than offsets any advantages gained by adding solvents to the epoxy.
Adding 5% lacquer thinner to epoxy reduces the epoxy’s compressive strength by 35%—a big hit in the mechanical properties of WEST SYSTEM epoxy (Figure 5). The addition of more than 5% solvent results in an excessively flexible cured material. Thinning epoxy with solvent causes enough loss of strength that we (and most other reputable epoxy formulators) cannot recommend using it as a structural adhesive.
...
Adding volatile solvent may cause shrinkage of the cured epoxy. Applying thinned epoxy in large, confined areas (like consolidating a large pocket of rotted wood) is likely to trap some of the solvent. In thick applications, the epoxy cures very quickly and not all of the solvent has time to evaporate before the epoxy hardens. Over time, the solvent works its way out and as this happens, the cured epoxy shrinks and in many instances cracks. Shrinkage also causes print through. You may have a surface sanded smooth only to have the resin shrink. This shrinkage often reveals the texture of the substrate. Shrinkage can continue to be a problem until all the trapped solvent works its way out of the cured epoxy.
...
Does thinning epoxy make sense? In some situations, thinning is appropriate. In others, it is not. We feel that in most circumstances using heat to thin epoxy is preferred to using solvents. As long as the epoxy does not overheat during cure, the full physical characteristics of the cured epoxy remain. Adding solvent is a quick, simple method of thinning epoxy, but the strength and moisture resistance of the cured epoxy are significantly reduced.
...
Adding volatile solvent may cause shrinkage of the cured epoxy. Applying thinned epoxy in large, confined areas (like consolidating a large pocket of rotted wood) is likely to trap some of the solvent. In thick applications, the epoxy cures very quickly and not all of the solvent has time to evaporate before the epoxy hardens. Over time, the solvent works its way out and as this happens, the cured epoxy shrinks and in many instances cracks. Shrinkage also causes print through. You may have a surface sanded smooth only to have the resin shrink. This shrinkage often reveals the texture of the substrate. Shrinkage can continue to be a problem until all the trapped solvent works its way out of the cured epoxy.
...
Does thinning epoxy make sense? In some situations, thinning is appropriate. In others, it is not. We feel that in most circumstances using heat to thin epoxy is preferred to using solvents. As long as the epoxy does not overheat during cure, the full physical characteristics of the cured epoxy remain. Adding solvent is a quick, simple method of thinning epoxy, but the strength and moisture resistance of the cured epoxy are significantly reduced.