misshydro

Well here it is!Have any of you guys had proublem with pull starter slipage? You know I'm running a.21Leo motor.And I'm having proublems after 3-5 runs,I have to pull the motor out and take apart the pull starter and clean the shaft and one way bearing with laquer thinner.[:@]The pull starter and oneway bearing I'd bought two months ago,and it's a O.S one.Is there any way to fix this! I'm open for sudjestions!

TomMoorehouse

yep.... get a starting belt and an electric starter

gooycheese

Have you looked really close at the one way bearing? My oneway bearing had a crack and it would slip like crazy.


Paul

misshydro

It does this when my motor gets realy hot.The oneway bearing and pull starter is new. For putting a belt starter on my boat?Right now I'm trying to rerout the water cooling lines around,tell you what it's a pain in the butt!!plus take the head off and move it into another prosishion.What all do I need for the electric/belt starter?I know I can get the starter cheep off of ebay.But What power sorce do I need for it/battery box/powerbox.I think is would be more pain in the butt.That why I'd have a pull starter.I can take the boat anywere and fired it up with out all the garbage to bring to start the boat.[>:]

Believe It

a regular 7AH 12v battery (they are like $20) works just fine. I run two of them to get 24v to start my bigblock nitro motors up. They are small and take up no space.


Once you start a boat with a starter and belt, you will laugh at pullstarts. Sullivan Hitork will crank that thing over like it has no glow plug in it

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

You'll need a little 1 amp trickle battery charger for the gel-cell. A cheap starter will do the job for you with the .21's.

Sean Bowf

Might be kind of ghetto...but I use a 12V drill battery for my electric starter... Already had the drill (batteries) and charger...so no out of pocket expense.

Sean

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Hey, if it works! I picked up a 12-volt drill at Harbor Freight for $12.00 with the charger and wondered how it would work for a starter or just my power panel for the glow ignitor and fuel pump.

wave waker

misshydro, got same thing with my nitro hammer, i tried putting a gasket between the starter and the crankcase and it work,,maybe might wrk with u..

misshydro

Thats what I going to do first before I give in to a electric starter.Ok guys Do any of you have pics of the battery box/or battery for the starter?And how big is the starter?

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

I use this starter for my smaller engines: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFT87&P=7
Tower has their own brand one that is cheaper. The reason I like Sullivan is because I've had mine since the early 80's, still works fine. About 2 years ago I did have to replace the switch, cost about $8 delivered. I'm can't say whether the cheap ones will still be working 20 years later, or if you'll still be able to get replacement parts...

For a battery, you can use something like this:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXL370&P=7
If you want to save some money, find someone who installs alarm systems. They typically change out these batteries every few years. The ones they remove still have plenty of life, they just do this as a precaution. They will usually give them to you if you ask nice. At the last race I attended, one of the guys brought a box of about 30 of these and told everyone to take as many as they wanted. I waited til everyone else got theirs and then took 2. They'll last me a couple seasons at least.

For the box, I know several people who have bought a cheap plastic tool box, installed a few banana plug sockets and then put the battery inside. I've even seen this setup with a power panel added to the box.

misshydro

How big is the starter and battery.Like lenght and width or both of them?I can find the starters on ebay cheep!!I'd came close in buying one two months ago for 10 dollars new!!

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Here's a shot of my starter box made from a Rubbermaid toolbox. It has 2 12-volt batteries in it, a power panel where one of the little parts boxes sat. I wired it up for either 12 or 24 volts. I keep extra glow plugs and tools for what I might need in the hot pits.

misshydro

Ok that gives me some ida but it still doesnt answer my questions.Ok whats the measurement on that box?[&:]

Believe It

these are the batterys i use (not this brand, but the same battery none the less)



L : 5.9"
W: 2.5"
H: 3.6"

misshydro

That would be cool.If I do switch over to electric starter,I dont want to lug a bulky big battery around.[>:]

wave waker

who said it's bulky check my portable starter, battery supposed to be attached to the starter so no long wires needed but kinda lazy to do...[:-]

battery is enough to run 7.5, 3.5 OB motor for the whole day in the pond.

L 3.7 W 1.75 H 2 inches,batt size.

misshydro

What the size of that starter.Like lenght and width of it?

wave waker

L7 W2.75 H3.75 inches...ooopppsss! i mean centimeter..just teasin' ya!!!

misshydro

That small!! cool!!

Darkseacret

will a tiger drive system not fit , the plate and a starting wand was i think about $30 from lhs

Sean Bowf

Curious, I take it the tiger drive is the one you can use a cordless drill to start. If a person does this to a stock boat, can he still race in the stock class for an RTR?

Sean

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

It would depend on the rules a local club decides to go by. The discussion rules, which are not a done deal by any means, say:
"3. Starting method: The engine will be started using the method provided by the manufacturer. If equipped with a flywheel that allows belt starting, a belt can be added and an electric starter used. In all cases, the original starting equipment, such as a pull starter, must remain on the engine and be fully functional."

Sean Bowf

I am sure they have a good reason for that rule...but I wonder what it is. I can see this rule being in affect for some sort of a fun run, like what JD was talking about with the running two laps, shutting it off, restarting it, running two laps, etc. But for a regular race, I don't see the point. I think there are other ways of saving weight, if that is the point of it. I wonder if they are proposing to take those out too (like smaller servos, different receiver battery packs, etc).

Sean

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

The reason "they" have written this into the stock rules is to keep the engines and boats nearly stock. Pulling the original starter requires modifying the engine. In addition to weight savings, there is typically a one way bearing that's part of the starter and this is said to take a bit of power away from the engine. Once you allow one mod to the engine, it becomes a slippery slope determining which other mods might be acceptable. So, for stock, keep it simple, no mods to the engine.
In answer to your question, here's what "they" put in the rules about radios:
"3. Radio system: The entire radio system including transmitter, receiver, servos, battery, etc, can be replaced however OEM radio box must remain and in original location."

There's another thread that talks about the discussion rules: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4767339/tm.htm . Since this is getting a bit away from the original topic of this thread, it would be good to continue this discussion over there. It's also good to document as much discussion as possible in that thread so people can refer back to it later when the rules are submitted as a formal proposal.