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Anybody have a FF .12 that can take close up pics of how the sponsons are mounted inside outside and side view? If you could take close up pics of other important stuff would be great. I'm going to build on from scratch and need this for a reference.

Thanks to all in advance for the help.

toyotatruckin

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_49...tm.htm#5104345
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5088474/tm.htm
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_51...tm.htm#5104491

here are 3 threads built from the firefighter .12 plans or kit

gooycheese

where is wonder lake?

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Just West of McHenry and East of Woodstock.

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These are great links!!!!!!!

Thanks

gooycheese

Well thats cool, wonder lake isnt that far from me, im by woodfield. I use to live in crystal lake by 172 & 14.


Paul

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When I get this boat done will have to get together. Do you fly planes or helis? I used to be into boats about 10 years ago then got out of it to fly planes. Just getting back into it again, but still into flying.

John

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Do you put a thin layer of glass on the bottom of the boat? Or do you use thinned out epoxy? I see that the sponson booms are screwed from the bottom of the tub up. How do these get sealed up is my main question? Also what do you think of a TRX Pro-15 nitro engine w/ a water-cooled head. The motor I got out of a Traxxas Nitro Vee?


Thanks, John

gooycheese

Well on the rigger's you will actually put a hole if not 2 right thru the bottom of the tub, to let water put. One by the fuel cell and one in the engine compartment before the radio box wall. I would think it would work, but if ya wanted to try and race it wouldnt be considered a A class rigger. I am trying a OS cv-r .12 . Ummm yeah I got 2 planes and a helicopter. The planes are just cheap rtf learning planes but they are ok I can do loops and barrel rolls The heli is another story, I dont fly it much cause I dont think its set up correctly and I dont know what im doing, Every time it goes into the air it cost me atleast $50 to fix what I break lol


Paul

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So do I just use thinned epoxy all around to seal it? Also the paint will look better by doing so. The big oval holes in the front are there to adjust the sponsons? Whatever water gets in through these hole plus any of the holes from the sponson screws will exit through the holes that you told me to drill?

Thanks

toyotatruckin

On mine the oval holes in the front where the sponson booms are are for adjustment, I put a hole in the left side bottom of the side in the rear of the tank compartment and same with the engine compartment, water drains out through them..
I used zpoxy finishing epoxy on my hull to seal it the zepoxy is thin equal to poly-resin I put it on evenly hit it with the heat gun to thin it even more let it soak into the wood for a few minutes then card it off smooth when dry sand it down, first I use 320g, then 400g, then 800g, ready to paint! I was going to leave the hull natural but the epoxy is a pain to get perfect and if Im gonna clear coat the hull I might as well paint it!

Yes the .15 marine engine would work if your not looking to race at an event.

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Can you post a pic of you hole/holes locations[X(]. I know you said left side, is it left as if you are sitting in it? Sorry if I'm asking too many stupid[sm=confused.gif] questions but I only had tunnel halls, V bottom's and one spit fire. I guess I'm kinda new at this out rigger thing. I wasn't planning on racing (not just yet) just something to do on the lake. Anyone have a video of the FF .12 or any other out rigger?

Thanks, John

toyotatruckin

here is a picture the only rigger video Ive seen is of electric riggers..

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Here's some pictures of what I've been doing. I have a couple of question before I can go any further. What do you use for the boom blocks balsa or hardwood? Also what size should they be? Do you notch the tub so they go all the way through or only notch the doubler so they but up against the tub inside?

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One more question for ya (well for now anyway) The rear sponson boom is mounted in place and the front is adjustable. How do you mount it for adjusting. Looking at all the pictures on here I only can figure out that they are bolted through the bottom and have a nut put on all the way down to the block. Than another nut then boom tube then the last nut. Doing it like this you get the adjustment by loosening the top nut adjusting the bottom nut then re-tightening the top nut. Is this how you do it or am I way off?

Thanks

gooycheese

I would use hardwood I made them just big enough so the boom tube could rest nicely, In your case I would notch the doubler. What is the thicknes of your sides? I used 1/8, and I didnt put any doublers in. How narrow will that make your tub the doublers? Is your boat to scale?


Paul

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The picture is two tub sides and two doublers. All of them are 1/8 ply I just have them rubber cemented together for cutting and sanding. Yes it is to scale.

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How did you make your front to be adjustable?

gooycheese

With the front boom you have the sloted side in the hull, the screws can be loosened and shims can be added or taken away. I have 1/8 travel in the front boom, I can go up 1/16 from center or down 1/16th from center. No shim I am 1/16th down 1 shim I am center 2 shims I am 1/16th high, if I need more sizes of shims than that I guess I can make smaller ones too I also could slot the hull even more I guess if I need more travel.


Paul

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Sounds good to me.......What size hardware are you using?

Thanks, John

gooycheese

I am using hughey hardware e1360 1 3/8" 1°, sm. rudder


Paul