fairpilot

Finally it is here, I am looking for pointers before I start using it below is what I have done so far

Tightened all screws
Installed Grim Race blue turn fin
verified 2 1/2 turns on needle valve
Greased drive shaft
Installed Antenna

What else is a must??

Thanks, I m looking forward to some fun

34Formula

Dont forget to turn the needle valve a 1/8 turn out until it runs rough, these are in the break in instructions. I did 3 tanks in mine today on a bench outside with a garden hose reduced to the tubing size on the rudder to keep cool while on the bench. You could hear the difference in running between tanks.

toyotatruckin

Since its brand new I would compleatly tear down the engine, clean it up real good, oil it up with some after run put it back together.....Being serious I tear down all new engines and so do many others!!! There could be that little piece of metal shaving floating around inside your engine that could cause you problems even the high buck engines need tore down just to make sure....

Sean Bowf

Its not a "must", but if you pull the engine and put a thin coat of epoxy under the engine and around the engine mounting blocks and fuel tank area, it will make cleanup a lot easier later.

Check the rudder to prop clearance, and see if they can hit...

Sean

4wheelinrevo

do not do this!!!!!!!!

first off turning out richens the mix not leans it, from the factory your settings are set rich for just about any altitude.

by the way he wrote it, with "these are in the break in instruction" he means lean it, which you are supposed to do during the break in procedure, the part that you dont want to do is run it until it runs rough, if you lean it out until it runs rough chances are it is too late and you have reuined piston and sleeve. at best you will have a poor performing engine.

during break in you WANT to run the engine rich, the whole point of breaking in the engine is you want to expand and contract the piston and sleeze so that they form a nice fit betwen each other. running the engine lean during break in over heats the piston and sleeve.



you do ralize that once you get the boat what you think is all tuned good then go to put it in the water and run it you will find that what was a good tune under no load is a lean tune under load, the only way to tune your mixture is by running the boat in the water then bring it in then if its running rich lean it out 1/8 turn then go make another run, the point being when you make a mixture change to the needles it doent take full affect right away you need run the engine under normal conditions the tune again


a properly tuned engine will have a nice stream of blue smoke coming out of the exhaust if not you are running your engine lean, you need to richen it up a bit.

also another tip when tuning your engine always start rich and start to lean it out, never start lean and richen up




I also tear down my engine before i even start it up for the first time, there are alot of little things that are out of my tolerances, the worst one is just about every engine i have the carb is lose, also i cant even count the amount of times the fly wheel has been off balance too

toyotatruckin

Last engine I had had a piece of metal about the size of a pencil lead was stuck to the back of the crank......To add to the above rich lean if you run an engine too rich it can do just as much damage as running to lean.. Smoke is a good way to check settings, not the best way for boats as the rooster tail masks most of it.....Once you have been messing with nitro engines long enough youll know when its in tune by the sound of the engine, sound and watching your boat can also tell you which way to go on your prop....

Sean Bowf

I have always been told to run it so rich that it barely runs for the first tank. I am pretty sure he meant to richen it until it run rough (just as he wrote it)...

I know one guy that is running his MV at 3 turns out AFTER break in...

Mine has been about 2.25 most of the time. If 2.25 is "normal running" in my area...then 2.5 is probably not rich enough for break in...

Sean

toyotatruckin

DO NOT RUN YOUR ENGINE AT AN EXTREMELY RICH SETTING. An ABC engine needs to come up to temperature and running it at an
extremely rich setting for a period of time will cause premature wear on the piston as well as the rod to stretch and break. This is because the cylinder
is too cold and the piston is forced into the taper and sticks and is then pulled back down with the connecting rod. The normal warm up period will not hurt
the engine but trying to run it very rich will because of the accumulative effect of 15,000 rpm’s or 15,000 sticks and pulls of the rod per minute. The
damage may not be apparent initially but the rod may break in the future seemingly for no apparent reason.


Taken from the K&B website easiest way to explane, copy and paste.lol

Sean Bowf

Thanks Mike.

I guess different manufacturers must have different recommendations. This is from the manual for the OS Max .12 CV-R

- When the engine starts, first allow it to operate in short
runs on its very rich starting settings, with the glowplug
battery still connected and with its driving wheels clear
of the ground. The rich mixture will, under these
conditions, provide adequate lubrication and cooling,
indicated by profuse smoke from the exhaust.

- Next, disconnect the glowplug battery and try
running the car on the track. If the engine stalls,
open the throttle fractionally, but try to keep the
engine running as rich as possible: if it stops
because of being excessively over-rich, close the
Needle-Valve 30° and try again.

- Run the car on the track until one tank of fuel has been
consumed, then close the Needle-Valve 30° and run
the car for another full tank of fuel.
Repeat this procedure until 5 more tanks of fuel have
been consumed, during which time the throttle may
be opened for brief bursts of increased power. If the
engine stops at medium speeds, close the Mixture
Screw 45-90°.

I am still pretty new to this hobby...so would be curious to hear more inputs on this...

Sean

fairpilot

Ok Well i did get one tank in yesterday, water was rough, I had needle valve at 3 turns. I hope that was enough. It really did not smoke to much but was blowing oil out of the exhast at a pretty good rate. Boat took a wave an flooded badly. I mean engine was in water. I immediatly pulled the plug, pulled the start cord several times, put a lot of after run oil in it, pulled cord some more, It started right up after that and ran fine.

Hydro Junkie

34formula, running THREE TANKS on the bench IS THE LAST THING YOU SHOULD DO TO A BOAT ENGINE. I lost a conrod and a case on a K&B 7.5 because of doing that very thing. After running a couple of tanks through the engine, I took the boat to the lake and promptly put the conrod through the bottom of the case.

Sean Bowf, you need to remember that you are dealing with a CAR engine and the appropriate instructions, so the instructions won't really apply for marine use. A car engine will have a load on it from the gearbox and axles while a boat won't have any load by comparison. Therefore, following the supplied directions could actually harm an engine.

Sean Bowf

The part of the instructions we were discussing was how rich to run the engine during breakin (the part of the text I made red). The instructions for the .18 CVRM say pretty much the same thing (about richness) as the .12 CVR instructions, they would probably have been a better example...but their PDF format is not text based (so I can't cut and paste the text). The .18CVRM instructions also have a warning in them about revving the engine out of water, even less than half throttle can over rev the engine

When I broke in the .12 CVR I used in my rigger, I put it on a wooden stand, put an aircraft prop on it, and ran a couple tanks through it at the richest setting I could get it to run at...

Sean