hyper701

i got my first octura prop today and it is not what i expected, the finish of the prop i got looks nothing like what i have seen here or any where on the net. the props i have seen look really rough, dull, and have plenty of meat on them, the one i got is really thin smooth and kind of sharp. is this just how they are or what? and does this prop need balancing, sharpening, and polishing?
cheers

the first pic is what i expected, and the second pic is what i got

Sean Bowf

You can guy props that are already sharpened and balanced...but it would have cost you 25-35 dollars. If you paid about 10-12 then it is a raw prop and needs to be balanced and sharpened.

The prop on the right looks like it is an aluminum prop. I have never messed with one of those...

Sean

toyotatruckin

from the picture it looks like the aluminum prop they have, look at the package and see if it say's for electric use only on it

hyper701

does not say electric use only on the packet[sm=confused.gif]

jdoug

It looks like a stainless prop.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

If it's an Octura, it's aluminum. If you go to this site: http://www.pirespreto.com/newversion..._catalog3.html , You'll see that thye do make a few of them in alumnium. Plastic props aren't advised for any nitro boat and certain Fast Electric classes won't allow them at all.
Yes, that is the way that they come out of the package. The ones that you see have been sharpened, balanced and polished.

kb guy

like sean said,how much did you pay? that will tell you. CARTER

WakeBoardnBash

i payed $45 for both of my sharpened and balanced 3 blade props, one is a V937/3 and the other is a X437/3

gooycheese

I expect to pay $40-45 for each prop I want sharpened if I decide to go with someone else doing it for me.


Paul

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Octura makes two types, bronze or aluminum. Prather was the only other common brand that made stainless but they are out of production.

Octura does not use a seperate part number system for its aluminum and bronze. The package has check boxes as to what type of material it is made of, or specified what type you want when they are ordered.

The same part number could be either plastic, aluminum or bronze - only the stock price tells you the difference, along with the clear packaging and label marking.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Technically, they're beryllium copper with a touch of cobalt in them.

hyper701

ok, so now i know that this prop is aluminum, but does it need balancing, sharpening ect

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Isn't there a tutorial around how to heat treat them so they could be thinned without loosing strength?

unclecrash

Are you sure its not electric prop. I was just at my shop today and there was a couple alum. that said on the pack they were ele.

hyper701

here is the pkt it came in

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Balance is more important than sharpening, but if that prop came straight out of the package it will have to be checked for balance, and the sharpening is what happens when you're working on its balance.

I use a Top Flight Magnetic Balancer, they are about 20 dollars and work very well, but there are also finger-style balancers where it is a small shaft stub you hold between your fingers, or use a stand of two utility knife razor blades to set it on.

Just a little bit of off-balance is greatly felt when you start your motor, and can trash a set of strut bushings in short order, and potentially be hazardous.

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Yup thats sad...that label is for a prop nut they make. Your prop was out of the package, and someone re-packaged it wrong. Was that an eBay transaction?

I have never seriously looked at any of Octura's aluminum props in any hobby shops (mainly because very few users of them), but I don't think there should be any smoothing or sharpening done to them. They are cast from the same molds as the copper props are...they should carry the same parting line bumps and flash as those.

unclecrash

The ones I saw wernt marked on the outer pack that you posted. There was another piece of paper stapled under that one That said ele. only. I could check with my friend who works at the LHS tomorrow and see if your part number is the same as the ones he has on the wall if you want me to.

hyper701

dam that sux ass, it was a ebay transaction, and it does say power source: electric, **** i must have missed thet bit. what will happen if i run it on my nitro aqua jet?

hyper701

i think the part numbers are the same weather you buy plactic aluminum or brass, but thanks anyway.

unclecrash

I dont Know what might happen dont want to speculate. I dont think I would run it though. Maybe others will chime in on this. I know alum. is a lot softer than the berylium copper.

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

I would return it if he advertised it as NEW IN PACKAGE because it's been tampered with all around.

The eBay snake pit is very deep, you can't trust the description most of the time, and the pictures some people put up are very deceptive.

hyper701

yea but it cant be any weaker than the stock plastic crap..can it?

unclecrash

You have a point there.

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

The thing about plastic props is they are allowed to flex a little. Aluminum doesn't flex...it bends and stays there and gets worse once it starts to go.

You're dealing with a small motor, and I have heard that some of the guys using electrics running aluminum props are strong enough to be compared to running a 21 size engine.

I would use caution and good judgement on exactly how much thinning went on with that prop.....

Aluminum props are rejected mostly because they can't hold a feather edge when run. As soon as you get less than a couple paper thicknesses thin with aluminum, there is absolutely no strength left in the material and it just folds.