Skunk Workz Cat Build
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Thought I got far enough to start the post. Here we have a 30" SW cat hull that I ordered my plans an intentions for this build are as follows:
1. OPS .45 cnc'd shaved balanced an ported from Twisted Liquid
2. Aeromarine running gear polished
3. Make hull rigid an supported to handle a large block motor with minimum vibration transferred to ride
4. True hull, smooth imperfections, sharpen edges
5. Reliable speed shooting for 50's
Heres the photos as I recieved the hull.
1. OPS .45 cnc'd shaved balanced an ported from Twisted Liquid
2. Aeromarine running gear polished
3. Make hull rigid an supported to handle a large block motor with minimum vibration transferred to ride
4. True hull, smooth imperfections, sharpen edges
5. Reliable speed shooting for 50's
Heres the photos as I recieved the hull.
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an more
Next I'll show you the results of my strengthing procedure Im doing. It'll be a magic trick 6 feet of carbon railing for the support structure. maxium strength min. weight

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Yeah Vertical I just got a new garmin Nuvio for my car an its super light an drops right in so shell have realworld numbers to confirm speed.
Wave shes looking right at 12.25" wide
Now in these pictures I used 7mm by .5mm carbon strips an some carbon rod 2.5mm to add support for motor, fuel tank, radin box an general tightening up of design on the inside. Weighed rods after they were cut an I prefer to mix my epoxy by weight also so total additional weight to hull is 25 grams!!! Way more rigid an much less flex overall an will give added strength when I put the main railings for all the mounts. You can also see I added floatation to the front an will add more to sides when I get it all mocked up.
-Cheers
Wayne
Wave shes looking right at 12.25" wide
Now in these pictures I used 7mm by .5mm carbon strips an some carbon rod 2.5mm to add support for motor, fuel tank, radin box an general tightening up of design on the inside. Weighed rods after they were cut an I prefer to mix my epoxy by weight also so total additional weight to hull is 25 grams!!! Way more rigid an much less flex overall an will give added strength when I put the main railings for all the mounts. You can also see I added floatation to the front an will add more to sides when I get it all mocked up.
-Cheers
Wayne
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Today I had the day off (hence all the posts right up front
) so I also did some research an since this is a "Skunk Workz" Hull I found the old Lockhead Martin skunk works logo made a stencil an sprayed it oon the front I think it turned out sweet

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Thanks I just ordered my running gear an motor/pipe combo, the motor is getting delivered straight to twisted an the gears coming here. Any suggestions on COG?
I wa figuring arounf 33% but was planning on doing a adjustable mounting point where there were multiple points I can bolt the engine mounts to to adjust from 35 to 30% cog. what do you think?
Also getting in the carbon fiber strips .25" by 2.5" for the railing similair to how ron olson set up a .12 mono (I think it was that one) just waiting on ups to get their butt in gear an more pictures to be posted!!!
I wa figuring arounf 33% but was planning on doing a adjustable mounting point where there were multiple points I can bolt the engine mounts to to adjust from 35 to 30% cog. what do you think?
Also getting in the carbon fiber strips .25" by 2.5" for the railing similair to how ron olson set up a .12 mono (I think it was that one) just waiting on ups to get their butt in gear an more pictures to be posted!!!
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Looks like a great quality hull aswell and its nice to see some pictures from all angles as opposed to the ones just on ebay.

Mind if I ask a few questions? Is aluminium rod going to be any good for my build (I work as a metal spinner and can get aircraft spec stuff!) or is CF really the way to go?
What parts are polished also, I can do this too

I know it's premature, but I cant wait to see this in action .
Sam.
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Thanks Sam ! Yeah I was going to wait until I got everything in but the build has been going so well I just got excited to post were I am so far. In answer to your questions
Ive had problems with using certian types of aluminium when making supports for my race motorcycles, they were all casted then machined so there maleability was high. Now maybe the stuff you could get would be stronger but then I see problems with using them in the applications I used CF,
1. weight the railing an rod I used was billed as half the weight of alum. An its always been my approach to make things lighter is to make them faster!
2. Bonding the CF seem to bond more permantely to the fiberglass in the hull. With alumn. (in the past w/bikes) when enough force was used the bonding agent (resin/epoxy) would pull apart instead of transferring the stress onto the whole contact patch
3. Price (at least to me) it cost $8 US ( about 4 for you proper english gentelmen
) for 8' of rod/rail
I am by no means an expert as I constantly refer to the shared knowledge on this site but these have been my findings in years of fabrication in other industries. In regards to polishing I plan on polishing the strut, rudder, an any other hardware that will be exposed to the water then I will lightly sand the pieces to give just enough surface to allow the water to blend around than to slide over a perfectly polishe surface. I just ordered the hardware an should recieve next week so I'll have plenty more pictures. It helps that Im a professional photographer in the evenings to be able to post so many shots an trust me, Sam, I'll have PLENTY more.
AS ALWAYS I WELCOME AN THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR COMMENTS, INSIGHT, KNOWLEDGE AN QUESTIONS ANY OF YOU MIGHT HAVE!!!! HAPPY BOATING
-Wayne
Ive had problems with using certian types of aluminium when making supports for my race motorcycles, they were all casted then machined so there maleability was high. Now maybe the stuff you could get would be stronger but then I see problems with using them in the applications I used CF,
1. weight the railing an rod I used was billed as half the weight of alum. An its always been my approach to make things lighter is to make them faster!
2. Bonding the CF seem to bond more permantely to the fiberglass in the hull. With alumn. (in the past w/bikes) when enough force was used the bonding agent (resin/epoxy) would pull apart instead of transferring the stress onto the whole contact patch
3. Price (at least to me) it cost $8 US ( about 4 for you proper english gentelmen

I am by no means an expert as I constantly refer to the shared knowledge on this site but these have been my findings in years of fabrication in other industries. In regards to polishing I plan on polishing the strut, rudder, an any other hardware that will be exposed to the water then I will lightly sand the pieces to give just enough surface to allow the water to blend around than to slide over a perfectly polishe surface. I just ordered the hardware an should recieve next week so I'll have plenty more pictures. It helps that Im a professional photographer in the evenings to be able to post so many shots an trust me, Sam, I'll have PLENTY more.
AS ALWAYS I WELCOME AN THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR COMMENTS, INSIGHT, KNOWLEDGE AN QUESTIONS ANY OF YOU MIGHT HAVE!!!! HAPPY BOATING
-Wayne
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Hi, cheers for that I had a feeling alum wasnt going to be the order of the day! Just found the CF rod on ebay though as my mate can only get sheet, still not that expensive really.
Looking forward to plenty more pics
Looking forward to plenty more pics

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just an update...
happy to say EVERYTHING is now ordered for the build ended up going with the cmb .45 hr machined by twisted liquid racing with a mac 7.5 pipe
a futuba magnum radio with s3003 servos. 12oz sullivan tank, radio box motor mounts an all running hardware by aeromarine. all has been ordered so check back next week as i slap this puppy together. by the way a special thanks goes out to scott from twisted liquid for all his help an expertise
-Wayne
happy to say EVERYTHING is now ordered for the build ended up going with the cmb .45 hr machined by twisted liquid racing with a mac 7.5 pipe
a futuba magnum radio with s3003 servos. 12oz sullivan tank, radio box motor mounts an all running hardware by aeromarine. all has been ordered so check back next week as i slap this puppy together. by the way a special thanks goes out to scott from twisted liquid for all his help an expertise
-Wayne
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Excellent (said in a Mr Burns voice,lol) When you get a moment Wayne (no rush) could you list part no. for me for the hardware you bought, so
I can compare to uk prices and stockist's etc please.
As an aside - when I spoke to the seller of these hulls, he mentioned he's only heard of one flipping and that was over 57mph! But it would turn on a dime and had no need for
turn fins
I can compare to uk prices and stockist's etc please.

As an aside - when I spoke to the seller of these hulls, he mentioned he's only heard of one flipping and that was over 57mph! But it would turn on a dime and had no need for
turn fins

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Sam, in regards to the running gear I will be using initially, this is a new build for me so who knows maybe I'll hate it with a particular rudder or what not but all will be shown if i do change it. but heres what I have coming in so far from aeromarinerc.com
rudder item #1300 description :Our .21/.45 Machined Rudder is made of high ,strength aluminum and comes pre-sharpened. Billet Aluminum (not brittle casting) Transom mounted pivot block with blind holes for a small Footprint. Kick back protection and a positionable nylon control horn for straight pushrod runs (adjust the horn, not the rudder!). Large water pickup role for plenty of flow
Strut item #1401 True Turn Strut 3/16 for electric or nitro. description :18/.66 Machined Strut Assembly for Nitro or Electric powered boats with .187 (3/16") drives. Finally a unique and High quality strut at a reasonable price. Just the first in Aeromarines new line of machined hardware. Replace those sloppy "off the shelf" non adjustable, strut assemblies with our new machined, adjustable, streamlined, bronze bushed, True Turn strut assembly. A "no slop" vibration free upgrade sure to keep you running FAST and trouble free.
they have them both listed in the runnning gear link on their web site an have pics so you can compare
also using their 24" long 3/16 flex shaft, that I'll cut to length, an teflon liner.will be making my own brass tube for it an getting a collet from twisted liquid.
also decided on my main rail material you can order it from mcmaster.com they do a variety of things I use in the jewelry world an even Tom moore uses a similair material for the spar on his fire fighter boats. I am going to use the Flame-Retardant Multipurpose Garolite (G-10/FR4 Epoxy Grade) in 1/4" thickness 2" for the rails an inside support for the transom.
Kinda thick but its what I had laying around from another project.
I know 1/4" might be alittle extreme in thickness but the weight compared to epoxy/glass covered 1/8 plywood I think will either be similair or slightly lighter plus this stuff is hard as nails great tensil an vibration absorbstion (spelling?) rates are great thus giving me a super strong support for the motor with minimal vibration transferred to the hull. I plan on adding it this weekend so I'll have pictures soon.
-wayne
rudder item #1300 description :Our .21/.45 Machined Rudder is made of high ,strength aluminum and comes pre-sharpened. Billet Aluminum (not brittle casting) Transom mounted pivot block with blind holes for a small Footprint. Kick back protection and a positionable nylon control horn for straight pushrod runs (adjust the horn, not the rudder!). Large water pickup role for plenty of flow
Strut item #1401 True Turn Strut 3/16 for electric or nitro. description :18/.66 Machined Strut Assembly for Nitro or Electric powered boats with .187 (3/16") drives. Finally a unique and High quality strut at a reasonable price. Just the first in Aeromarines new line of machined hardware. Replace those sloppy "off the shelf" non adjustable, strut assemblies with our new machined, adjustable, streamlined, bronze bushed, True Turn strut assembly. A "no slop" vibration free upgrade sure to keep you running FAST and trouble free.
they have them both listed in the runnning gear link on their web site an have pics so you can compare
also using their 24" long 3/16 flex shaft, that I'll cut to length, an teflon liner.will be making my own brass tube for it an getting a collet from twisted liquid.
also decided on my main rail material you can order it from mcmaster.com they do a variety of things I use in the jewelry world an even Tom moore uses a similair material for the spar on his fire fighter boats. I am going to use the Flame-Retardant Multipurpose Garolite (G-10/FR4 Epoxy Grade) in 1/4" thickness 2" for the rails an inside support for the transom.
Kinda thick but its what I had laying around from another project.
I know 1/4" might be alittle extreme in thickness but the weight compared to epoxy/glass covered 1/8 plywood I think will either be similair or slightly lighter plus this stuff is hard as nails great tensil an vibration absorbstion (spelling?) rates are great thus giving me a super strong support for the motor with minimal vibration transferred to the hull. I plan on adding it this weekend so I'll have pictures soon.
-wayne
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Thanks Wayne, that's brilliant. New builds are cool! That is some great sounding kit also. I wonder if anyone else has dropped a hot 7.5cc in this hull before?!
Speaking of Hulls, shall be purchasing mine very shortly, will make a good static display model for a while though.
Keep up the good work and have fun building, wish I could .
Speaking of Hulls, shall be purchasing mine very shortly, will make a good static display model for a while though.
Keep up the good work and have fun building, wish I could .
