GrimRacer Surface Drive Strut & Rudder
11-23-2007, 01:54 PM
#1
GrimRacer Surface Drive Strut & Rudder
I'm planning my project and looking at GrimRacer's strut and rudder that is used on the 27" Nitro SuperVee (.18 power).
I am also new to monohulls, both building and running. Would someone be able to tell me if this would be a good answer to what should be put on my boat?
The reason I ask is what performance I can expect. First of all the boat is an older, all wood design called a "Norco R/C Eaglet" and will be powered by a strong .21 engine. It is a shallow V design and planning on adding a right side turn fin and a removable Octura brass center skeg to help in the corners. If you look at the build pics, the bottom of the boat is just a large running pad, built like a ski, with the sides of the bottom being stepped up for less drag. I would guess the total vee angle is only about 7 degrees per side.
The transom area is quite small on this, and brackets will be crowded. Original plans call for a standard transom mounted sub-surface drive setup. Is a surface drive even a good idea for this boat?
Grim's hardware is quite nice looking being CNC machined and anodized, and is a reasonable cost and good availability compared to the others that are more expensive, race orientated Speedmaster or the like. I would also like to learn some of it's sizes such as flex and stub shaft size and threads. I use standard 1/8" bore Octura and Prather props. Sizes to start with would be great too!
I am hoping people will point out if it is a good idea or not before I go out, buy and build before I fiind out it was all the wrong idea. A non-stinger type setup option would be the strudder assembly from Octura which can be setup as a surface drive, but it is expensive and all heavy copper, and would have to move the strut to the rudder position on the bracket to be able to clear the nose of the strut, and still have to go with a seperate rudder and bracket.
Credit for the build pictures goes to Oldlugs who provided me help with templates and instructions. He provided me with an excellent project and greatly appreciate it....
I am also new to monohulls, both building and running. Would someone be able to tell me if this would be a good answer to what should be put on my boat?
The reason I ask is what performance I can expect. First of all the boat is an older, all wood design called a "Norco R/C Eaglet" and will be powered by a strong .21 engine. It is a shallow V design and planning on adding a right side turn fin and a removable Octura brass center skeg to help in the corners. If you look at the build pics, the bottom of the boat is just a large running pad, built like a ski, with the sides of the bottom being stepped up for less drag. I would guess the total vee angle is only about 7 degrees per side.
The transom area is quite small on this, and brackets will be crowded. Original plans call for a standard transom mounted sub-surface drive setup. Is a surface drive even a good idea for this boat?
Grim's hardware is quite nice looking being CNC machined and anodized, and is a reasonable cost and good availability compared to the others that are more expensive, race orientated Speedmaster or the like. I would also like to learn some of it's sizes such as flex and stub shaft size and threads. I use standard 1/8" bore Octura and Prather props. Sizes to start with would be great too!
I am hoping people will point out if it is a good idea or not before I go out, buy and build before I fiind out it was all the wrong idea. A non-stinger type setup option would be the strudder assembly from Octura which can be setup as a surface drive, but it is expensive and all heavy copper, and would have to move the strut to the rudder position on the bracket to be able to clear the nose of the strut, and still have to go with a seperate rudder and bracket.
Credit for the build pictures goes to Oldlugs who provided me help with templates and instructions. He provided me with an excellent project and greatly appreciate it....
11-23-2007, 02:10 PM
#2
RE: GrimRacer Surface Drive Strut & Rudder
The fotprint on the transom isn't going to be much smaller than the Speedmaster's but he price is a lot lower. Offshore Electrics sells the Grimracer unit as well as Tower or your LHS should be able to get it also. you'll have to go iwth an alternate method of running a cooling line ot the engine though.
11-23-2007, 11:16 PM
#5
RE: GrimRacer Surface Drive Strut & Rudder
Hey, sometimes you gotta run them were you can! 
the first boat has a modded Warehouse Hobbies SPD-E drive on it, the second the Speedmaster stinger with a shortened (too far and has been replaced) rudder and of course the Super-Vee 27.
the first boat has a modded Warehouse Hobbies SPD-E drive on it, the second the Speedmaster stinger with a shortened (too far and has been replaced) rudder and of course the Super-Vee 27.
11-24-2007, 08:41 AM
#6
RE: GrimRacer Surface Drive Strut & Rudder
Thanks Ron!
About the Grim rudder - can the L bracket be flipped to point either way inward or outward on it? Is the location of the rudder off centerline important? It looks like the Grim outdrive will work great, but I am afraid the rudder couldn't be moved over far enough for the bracket to catch the mounting area. Looks like it would interfere with the prop diameter eventually the closer it's moved towards center.
What is getting me on all this is that transom if you look on the box picture isn't any bigger than the radio box just ahead of it. The sides think out quick!
About the Grim rudder - can the L bracket be flipped to point either way inward or outward on it? Is the location of the rudder off centerline important? It looks like the Grim outdrive will work great, but I am afraid the rudder couldn't be moved over far enough for the bracket to catch the mounting area. Looks like it would interfere with the prop diameter eventually the closer it's moved towards center.
What is getting me on all this is that transom if you look on the box picture isn't any bigger than the radio box just ahead of it. The sides think out quick!
11-24-2007, 09:21 AM
#7
RE: GrimRacer Surface Drive Strut & Rudder
I just went downstairs twice to check mine. Yes, the rudder bracket can be flipped as well as the rudder steering arm.
I've been running into that problem also on my .12 monos. Lots of fun getting (what seems like) my fat fingers into tight places when putting in nuts holding the transom hardware on. Good thing for needle-nose Vice-Grips!
You're going to want enough offset of the rudder so that the prop doesn't hit it when making hard left turns.
I've been running into that problem also on my .12 monos. Lots of fun getting (what seems like) my fat fingers into tight places when putting in nuts holding the transom hardware on. Good thing for needle-nose Vice-Grips!
You're going to want enough offset of the rudder so that the prop doesn't hit it when making hard left turns.
11-24-2007, 09:47 AM
#8
RE: GrimRacer Surface Drive Strut & Rudder
Cool, thanks! Now if I can just find the bracket. I went to Tower and all they carry is the rudder blade and the control arm - no hinge pin or anything. They have all the strut parts and so does OSE. I might bite the bullet and go with an aluminum Octura rudder and the short bracket, that way I can tuck it in closer to the transom and off away from the prop area. Might mess up the water path ahead of the prop though... still figuring. Would be nice to stay with all Grim just for the blue package.
11-27-2018, 07:05 AM
#9
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Hello I've been looking for an old Northwind but I'm not sure if they did timber kits .So I was wondering if the templates are available for one of the above boats .I can draw my own plans but I know this has already been sorted even though it is an old design . Thanks Dennis James
11-27-2018, 09:42 AM
#10
Originally Posted by jetpack
Cool, thanks! Now if I can just find the bracket. I went to Tower and all they carry is the rudder blade and the control arm - no hinge pin or anything. They have all the strut parts and so does OSE. I might bite the bullet and go with an aluminum Octura rudder and the short bracket, that way I can tuck it in closer to the transom and off away from the prop area. Might mess up the water path ahead of the prop though... still figuring. Would be nice to stay with all Grim just for the blue package.
