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AMPS hulls & outboards pics & tips {Agnew Model Propulsion Systems}

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AMPS hulls & outboards pics & tips {Agnew Model Propulsion Systems}

Old 08-23-2020, 12:49 PM
  #2276  
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Excellent video, luv the water going through the exhaust tips, nice touch. And nice work on the repair.
Old 08-23-2020, 01:08 PM
  #2277  
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Originally Posted by ScarabChris View Post
I am still on the original plastic u-joints with the exception of the one I had to modify with the aluminum shock cap. It is still working great. With regard to the u-joints needing water I understand but this is not a race boat. I run it as a scale model so I rarely give it full throttle and I am running back and forth is a small space in the canal behind my house so they are only running "dry" for a few seconds at a time.

However, the metal U-Joints I have coupling the motors to the drives in the hull do get hot. So far no real issue there, they just feel hot when I pull the boat. Today the boat was running awesome but one of the cooling lines for one of the ESC's came off so I was filling the boat with water as I ran. Luckily I was on my real boat running the RC when I noticed it and was able to grab it. I have a bilge pump system I am working on now so if this happens in the future I will know and the water will be pumped out.

As for the U-Joints in the boat that are getting hot, you can see them here.

Have have to agree with Bob the water exit coming out of the exhaust tip is a nice touch . The original design for all the amps boats using the amps outdrives used a water nozzle to direct the exit water on to those u-joints some amps outdrive units have the water nozzles built into the transom bracket housing itself that's spray the exit water directly onto those u-joints . They were designed as a weak point on the assembly to save the gears also that's the other reason the propellers were always aluminum . where they heat up no matter if you're putting around or going full-throttle is when you steer the outdrive to the left or the right that's where the stress kicks in on the pens on the plastic
Old 08-23-2020, 01:21 PM
  #2278  
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Originally Posted by ScarabChris View Post
I am still on the original plastic u-joints with the exception of the one I had to modify with the aluminum shock cap. It is still working great. With regard to the u-joints needing water I understand but this is not a race boat. I run it as a scale model so I rarely give it full throttle and I am running back and forth is a small space in the canal behind my house so they are only running "dry" for a few seconds at a time.

However, the metal U-Joints I have coupling the motors to the drives in the hull do get hot. So far no real issue there, they just feel hot when I pull the boat. Today the boat was running awesome but one of the cooling lines for one of the ESC's came off so I was filling the boat with water as I ran. Luckily I was on my real boat running the RC when I noticed it and was able to grab it. I have a bilge pump system I am working on now so if this happens in the future I will know and the water will be pumped out.

As for the U-Joints in the boat that are getting hot, you can see them here.



This this is another way to fix eliminating the u-joints using flex shaft as long as you have the tool to square each end off and machining out a square on inside both hex seen a few people do this back in the days
Old 08-25-2020, 11:48 AM
  #2279  
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Yeah I can square off the flex shafts. I'm just not sure there will be enough "flex" in those shafts for tight turns. And if so it would put a lot of strain on the steering servos. But I like the idea of the flex shaft in the hull between the motors and transom. Thay would eliminate the heat issue I get on the U-Joints in the hull.
Old 08-25-2020, 11:54 AM
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Here is a quick post on my bilge pump system. This is a little pump I got from Amazon and a little rig that plugs into the AUX on your RX so you can turn it on and off from your TX assuming you have at least 3 channels. I did not mess with an auto system. I simply hit the AUX on the transmitter to check for water. It works very well. I poured about 12 oz of water in the hull and the pump evacuated it in about 30 seconds. This particular pump does not need to be submerged. It is a diaphragm pump so it will suck from well above the water. I mounted it under the ESC tray and ran a rigid tube to the back of the hull. Then a short dump overboard.

AUX on/off switch.
Amazon Amazon
Pump.
Amazon Amazon





Old 08-25-2020, 11:59 AM
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real nice Chris, thanks for sharing the links as well.
Old 08-25-2020, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ScarabChris View Post
Here is a quick post on my bilge pump system. This is a little pump I got from Amazon and a little rig that plugs into the AUX on your RX so you can turn it on and off from your TX assuming you have at least 3 channels. I did not mess with an auto system. I simply hit the AUX on the transmitter to check for water. It works very well. I poured about 12 oz of water in the hull and the pump evacuated it in about 30 seconds. This particular pump does not need to be submerged. It is a diaphragm pump so it will suck from well above the water. I mounted it under the ESC tray and ran a rigid tube to the back of the hull. Then a short dump overboard.

AUX on/off switch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pump. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1




Excellent excellent idea on that bilge pump setup I really like it looks like it works very well might have to incorporate something somewhere on one or two of my boats that I've had some issues with
Old 08-25-2020, 12:21 PM
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Couple pics of it pumping out pool water that I poured in. I know the picture makes it look like drops but it's a steady stream.




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