jmy2u

Hey Toyota can you post some info on the BEC's that you use, I've been thinking about trying Lipos. I have tried one of the LiFe packs from tower and it has plenty of juice for a whole day of running and doesn't lose its charge after sitting for awhile.

amax

Hmmm,, decisions Decisions[:-] I keep telling myself everytime I go to Changing the plan,,,k.i.s.s. Dangit K.I.S.S.
where I run into My delima with the Lipos is, The Spektrum Rx's I'm told will take the 7.2v lipo direct, no BEC, what I'm not clear on YET, is does that mean only Spektrum Servos will work with it or will others, and is it Digital or analog servos that work with it.

Hydro Junkie

Can't say for all servos, but know the Futaba standard servos are only rated up to 6 volts, some only to 4.8 volts. Any higher will drastically reduce servo life. From what I've HEARD, the digital Futaba servos work better at 6 volts, though I've never run them that power level.

toyotatruckin

That I do not know amax I dont drive, boat, or fly 2.4

The BEC aka battery eliminator circuit is just a voltage regulator that cuts the volts down to 5 or 6 volts different ones have different options some have a low volt cut-off built in some dont some like the one I use dont but allows anywhere from 2-6cells and its a true 6v not like a 5 cell pack alone which depending on cells and charge varies this is the one I use its cheap and works just as good as any of them out there OR waste a little cash and buy one from castle for around 20
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...-3-Amp-/Detail

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

A BEC can be bypassed by just plugging into an unused channel or using a Y connector to an existing one.

toyotatruckin

ron what page are you on here lol were talking about ADDING a BEC to the set-up for nitro use

Hydro Junkie

Okay guys, play nice

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

It's late and work kicked my ass tonight. No kidding, I could barely walk out of the shop tonight as the clunker I drove tore up my knees and back. I got home and coated myself in Icy-Hot.

advanced builder

YA kinda brown mostly ,stinky too

amax

Thanks Yota for all the good info, I figured I would catch ya on yahoo and Pick Your Brain one of these nights when were both up and movin at the same time,,LOL,, But here works to, more people can learn from it then.
I know the Spektrum and JR servos will take 6v no prob that's all I run currently, I haven't used 4.8 in a long time. I guess the UBEC is the easiest way to make sure I don't fry em with 7.2v.

barmonkey

I am using the same setup as toyotatruckin...800mAh 2S Lipo with a BEC. My BEC has a jumper to choose betwen 5V and 6V. It actually puts out 5.4V or 6.4V. The 5.4V is working well...

http://hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=3735

advanced builder

One hobby shop owner has one just like that, trying to win me over & convert over

boatnut

 Is anyone using a failsafe on  their riggers?
I know it adds a little weght, but I don't race and the high speed
makes for a serious situation, if the radio or battery fails.
I am going to use a micro one on the throttle.
 I know some of the newer radio systems have them built in.
Any comments?



             Having this much fun must be illegal

toyotatruckin

I dont use them as Ive had the fail safe "play it safe" before at the 100% worst time I use FM still and recovery time from a lost signal is faster than 2.4 so no worries and hasnt killed any of my RC yet.. Also the more gadgets you add to the system the more prone to problems you are. I had a volt watch short out and fry my RX once to..

toyotatruckin

I have 3 rudder brackets almost done just need to make the hinge and finish the blades still working on knocking a little weight off so still a day or 3 away, 2 are spoken for, ones going on mine I know its taken a while but designing parts can be a pain, if anyone is interested in the other when I get them done let me know by PM you guys think the zipp strut mounts easy, a blind man could get this rudder mounted (serious on that lol)

amax

Yota I got a feeling I'm gonna be building another Real Soon. I'v already had 2 people trying to buy this one before I even finish it.

advanced builder

My local club doesn't have a class for the .12 I ran her in the .21 open riggers I just blew my 2nd 85mg servo. I can't spend any more time on her right now ,she's down I do like ease of hauling her around in my car.

amax

Dang AB what are you doing to Blow Servos?

I did a little more Whittelin on my servo Brkt. still gotta finish polishing it.


And i cut a little more of the bottom

advanced builder

I see nothing that would bind-up that servo,AMAX Just cough that up to the pond god. I'm doing a RON 2 hulls @ a time. Got me a Cat & Miss Jada to get up & working. I don't do a all nighter.LOL

toyotatruckin

Nice amax, Just hope your not overloading the back end, riggers are a bit more sensitive than sport hydros.My first JAE rudder it finished Since I work with the material to design and not on paper (yeah im odd lol) I need to get it in cad, I can replicate it without but takes twice as long... Ill get some pics up later
OH forgot, I got the weight down zipp china rudder (which is light) one I have is sitting at 1.2oz got mine down to 1.3oz my blade is a little wider LE to TE and a little longer from top to bottom so trimmed up would be about the same

toyotatruckin

May change the blade a bit length wise and Ill point out my screw-up just cause its irritating me BUT when I ran the ball mill on the center line I believe I went a full turn to far on my machine and when I noticed it I had already made the first pass, just cause its buggin me I may make the center one a bit wider to hide it from myself lol
LE of blade is directly centered on the hing pin it is a "break-away" blade with a brass sheer pin (bolt), counter sunk the side bolts and are far enough back to clear the transom brace, the washers should also clear when using the balsa stock. I left plenty of bracket in front of the bolts to support the rudder in turns, again weighs in at 1.3oz or to the gnats nut 37.4 grams including all SS mounting hardware, left the control arm long and will trim it when I figure out exactly where the rod will come out at, thats the first time Ive used a nice tooling jig (for the blade) and it was well worth the money to have made (helps to know a tool maker to !

it butts square up against the back of the hull and mount it how ever high or low you want only thing that matters there is where your control rod pops out at mount it flush with the ride pad if one wanted and trim the blade to length its almost impossible to get mounting wrong..

amax

Lookin nice Yota,,[8D]

Well I just came in for a bite to eat and figured I would share a little more.
I managed to Squeeze in a little more whittling and polishing time, tell me what ya think.[8D]



I shortened the rudder brkt. so rudder would be in front of the prop like the stock set up.
I want to try to keep the 2\56 rod as straight as possible, So here I'm Double checking alignment with the servo.


And Prop clearance


I still have whittlin to do on the front hinge half and the brkt. and Of Course some Polishing. [8D]

advanced builder

NO FLIP FLOPS chief redfoot
nice & shinny on that rudder

amax

No,,no flops today! They peeled so I can go back to my boots,

Got a little more polishing done.


Now the strut is Really Polished

barmonkey

Very nice indeed! Wish I would have polished that strut before I installed it...that thing is not coming off!!!