Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Boats > Speed - RC Nitro Boats
Reload this Page >

Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

Notices
Speed - RC Nitro Boats For all your rc nitro fuel burning boating needs.

Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

Old 11-22-2009, 11:52 AM
  #151  
jetpack
My Feedback: (1)
 
jetpack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hobart, IN
Posts: 2,477
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

In MSPaint there is a tool menu where you can scale your image to a percentage, both height and width.

Make copies of your files and work with the copies and and try using that feature and see what prints.

This is where someone can spend hours getting the right thing to come out of the printer. I know I've got frustrated and never got it right ever on this part and need a Guru.

I've looked at trying to draw my own graphics searching out free fonts and graphics programs and trying to just draw up my own solid sheet of decals but ran out of coffee on that one.
...just thought I would try and encourage you with this...

[sm=tongue_smile.gif]

Old 11-22-2009, 01:17 PM
  #152  
R.J. West
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
R.J. West's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: brownsville, TX
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

Hi Chief,

I really appreciate the kind words and encouragment. Model power boats has always been my hobby since I was a little kid.
The Atlas here is not perfect, but its my best shot with what tools I have, and all I have to work with is some Xacto knives and a dremel tool with some basic attachments...And with the proper setup & trim, it should be a runner....Only thing hurting these boats is the lack of a good selection of small props..

I'l have to experiment with the settings as suggested, it was past muh bedtime when i was trying to fool around with the printing anyway.........

My next hurdle is to figure out a neat way of attaching the rear cowl & keeping it water proof-ish....My idea was to use a dowl or 1/16 ply and make a lip or something for the rear of the cowl to slip under the deck and use a machine screw to secure the front to the bulkhead.....I dont want to use tape or anything else that would cause stress to the paint or deck....
heres a pic
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Yv65877.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	130.1 KB
ID:	1318655   Click image for larger version

Name:	Vr53204.jpg
Views:	62
Size:	120.0 KB
ID:	1318656   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ze86118.jpg
Views:	68
Size:	111.8 KB
ID:	1318657  
Old 11-22-2009, 10:33 PM
  #153  
R.J. West
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
R.J. West's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: brownsville, TX
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

this is alittle unrelated to my build but thought I'd share this, check out this link for some unlimited hydro graphics in 1/48 scale which is I think 25.5 inches www.craftworks.com/hydros/hydros.htm

This one may be useful
www.kustomrides.com/home.php
Old 11-22-2009, 11:32 PM
  #154  
chief3452
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

Have you thought about using magnets to hold down your cowling? And don't forget to add some floatation to, just in case.
Old 11-23-2009, 01:01 PM
  #155  
R.J. West
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
R.J. West's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: brownsville, TX
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

I'm not a big fan of using magnets, only because I'm old school I quess....The cowl still needs a little bit of triming to fit the curve of the top of the deck towards the stern a bit...I was going to glue on a 1/32 ply to the bottom of the cowl and seal off the insides to make it watertight so it can float if it ever gets lose and glue on a dowl to fit under the rear of the deck and a screw to hold it down at the engine well frame....Thats the only thing I can think of right now...
Old 11-23-2009, 05:39 PM
  #156  
jetpack
My Feedback: (1)
 
jetpack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hobart, IN
Posts: 2,477
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

RJ did you think about re-inforcing the wing by framing up under the cowl like the bigger AVL 40 is framed up? I don't know how you glued or if your worried about the rear fin.

It should be okay I dont think you'll ever flip the Atlas but that rear fin would catch water and break maybe.

When you said you might be closing it up I thought I should mention that if overlooked.

The only time I dunked my Atlas was when it reached my own rollers I put out from the fishing boat.

When the rear end came out I thought for sure the way it screamed I was going to hear the piston take a hike but it hung in there before it dunked. Damage was kept to the drive dog/roll pin to the front of the prop.

BTW its hard to get the water out of one of these.

I remember now how I would set the needle too. With the TeeDee I would start it and keep it mid-tune maybe a little rich and then set it in the water and hold it until the prop grabbed.

Then I would peak it out with the prop biting and then back off to find slobby rich and come back to lean maybe 1/8th to 1/4 the range and let 'er rip.

You'll be suprised how much one of these can tug at you when tuning.

About the decal link, i noticed only white for inkjet and only clear for laser printers.

Okay this time around for the Atlas because it's white, but my choice would be to print it up on clear and stay away from any white mis-match. With the hull having a white base really will help the decal colors I believe. Good thing they are not going over two colors. I guess you would just keep stacking the decals until there wasn't any shade change if that was the case.

I've seen the resin hydros website before, but this time I don't see any examples of a raw kit like i did last time maybe i overlooked...

Besides boats I've built plastic scale models most of my life and have done a few resin kits. They are very interesting to work with, especially cleaning them up. Some outstanding detail can be worked into one piece of resin. Way past what a plastic mold can produce.

About the hatch latch system and not wanting to use tape because of stress to the paint how about putting in tape on top of tape?

Go a little wider than what you would use to attach the cowl with strips that stay with the boat, and tape up to that? The best match for tape is tape. It sticks to itself like it should and it pulls itself away from itself like it should. Sticks well to itself. Never a residue when its pulled from itself. It's made to come off the roll like that.

I've used that trick many times before taping something. Got to love Tape!

Having a mechanical faster would be nice though if getting around how to seal it up like you want. The only way I can think is to build a shelf for it to sit into and do the RTV and saran trick just like a radio box is done.
Old 11-23-2009, 09:43 PM
  #157  
R.J. West
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
R.J. West's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: brownsville, TX
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build



hey Jetjack,

Couple things, one thanks for all your input & help....I'm not worried about the delta wing breaking. I first made four small holes in the groove thats molded into the cowl for the wing so that cement can get a good grip, then I mixed some epoxy with micro balloons and laid a bead along the seam then sanded it nice and neat...Tape would work and I have an idea...How about that laminating material sold in sheets? I could cut it oversized around where the cowl fits.
The way you describing about building a lip for the cowl to sit in and using silicone to create a seal is pretty much what I had in mind.
I do have a Atlas U-71 sport 40, NIB under the bed waiting to be built. (along with a drag n fly .40, pay n paksport 20) I'm gonna have to check out the plans for attaching ideas....
I'm not too worry about water getting into the hull too much because I did a cool job sealing the wood inside, but more importantly, I made cutouts in all frames and bulkheads, if water gets into the hull I can drain most of it out thru the machine screws holding in the engine mount...Dual purpose engine mount that is....I also am making similar mounts to compensate for the extra length the Golden bee takes up and another one for a tee-dee tank mount.
Oh, I ordered a bunch of neat toys from XENALOOK. I picked up some performance cylinders and new glowheadsanda few new crankcases with brass driveplates, pretty cool, I'm thinking that since the driveplate is brass, it may act as a thrust bearing...,... heres a pic of two engines with the replacement cylinders/new pistons and crankcases that I have already made,I'm using the original bee's fueltanks which I replaced the reeds with new metal ones and new gaskets/screws and I polished up the tanks with 000 steel wool, I think they look nice.....galbreath heads coming soon...

Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Zx72687.jpg
Views:	65
Size:	130.1 KB
ID:	1319465   Click image for larger version

Name:	Rm37630.jpg
Views:	70
Size:	141.3 KB
ID:	1319466  
Old 11-23-2009, 11:37 PM
  #158  
jetpack
My Feedback: (1)
 
jetpack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hobart, IN
Posts: 2,477
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

Anytime, R.J.

Epoxy rivets on the fin, that will work. I had seen it before but wasn't sure what you did there.

That works really well with aluminum brackets that are just epoxied to wood. It helps to drill a few holes in the aluminum facing the wood for the epoxy to form to and make rivets that help grip.

I think you'll have good luck with the Bee's. The aftermarket head and plug will be a nice combo to the cylinders you have comming.

The stainless shim is the way to go. It's hard and does not wear, and there's always plenty of oil out the front of a Bee, so it always has good cushion. It just needs something there to not wear itself into, such as another piece of aluminum on the other side. It gets glass smooth and stays there. Add a drop of straight castor when starting would be a cool thing to do too, especially after a dunk.
Old 11-24-2009, 11:24 PM
  #159  
R.J. West
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
R.J. West's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: brownsville, TX
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

O.k.
I took a look at the plans & instructions for my Atlas U-71 sport 40 kit that I have and I'm going to go ahead and secure my cowl the way they show it..
I'm going to install two small dowls in frame number 6, which forms the rear of the engine well, and glue on a doubler on the inside of the ply that forms the front of the cowl so that the front of the cowl will be held down by the pins....The rear will be secured either by one small screw under the delta wing in the pointy part of the rear of the cowl or two small screws on either side....I'm looking now under the deck in that area to decide which is best.
originally I was going to put a dowl under the rear of the cowl and hold the front down by a single screw....I guess either way will work...

Right now I won two hitec servos for my Dumas Atlas U-76 sport 40, a mg645 for the rudder & mg625 for throttle...I know the 625 may be overkill for throttle but it was a deal $$$wise for both...
Right now my sport 40 U-76 has taken my time cause parts I needed are starting to come in.

I still need to pick up a can of clear coat. I'm leaning towards dupli-color clear acrylic laquer. I have a can of Cox fuel, but am not sure how resistant the dupli-color is....I'm not talking about soaking my boats in nitro all nite, If theres any fuel spitting around, it'll be wiped up soon enough. I was just wondering if I can get away with acrylic laquer clear for 1/2A fuel?
The boats been shot down with Dupli-color, I've seen acrylic laquer and I've seen clear enamel...All I have here are pep boys and autozone type stores..

I have taken some measurements and some advice and made a stuffing box that I think should work out well.....I'm going to be using a octura .098 flex cable with a 1/8 threaded shaft. The stuffing box will double as a bushing for the shaft.....The dumas brass strut that came with the hardware kit for this boat was about an 1/8 inch too deep when its at the stern. So I installed my engine and made a slight bend in the tube lining up perfectly with the 5-40 threaded shaft that goes into the engines driveplate.
The drive dog will be at the stern and the props hub is the same depth as the sponsons riding surface. Any adjustments can be made by sliding the driveshaft slightly in or out...I'm gonna make a little "strut" from 1/16 ply just to support the tube at the stern.....heres some pics
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Jh15556.jpg
Views:	68
Size:	61.8 KB
ID:	1320183   Click image for larger version

Name:	Lg16503.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	66.8 KB
ID:	1320184   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ua70673.jpg
Views:	65
Size:	74.6 KB
ID:	1320185   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ay74272.jpg
Views:	68
Size:	102.0 KB
ID:	1320186  
Old 11-25-2009, 04:11 AM
  #160  
Air Mover
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NRH, TX
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

At this point weight is going to work the bee but you can help it out with proper prop depth. Rule of thumb have the prop hub just a hair above the sponson bottom about 1/8in(based on your hull length),this will stillinduce positive traction and avoid prop hopping (not being tolow)yet still give the engine a chance to ride on the prop and unload the engine. To insure this happens you will need a sharp balanced metal prop 24 to 26mm in lue of the engine choice. Do you have a 1.2x1.2 dumas metal prop? You understand the bee will only produce about 50ish watts at best this is not allot of power to work with. Even a TD 049 is only 85watts. The up swing is your doing a great job with the project and have areasonable oddsat running the prop near or on the surface with a tad forward cg about 1.5in behind the sponsons would give you a chance. Your choice for the power train will be robust and will take away some of the top end. If you go with flex drive they like running in nylon tube rather then allow the strands to rub on the brass stuffing box.
Old 11-25-2009, 07:58 PM
  #161  
R.J. West
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
R.J. West's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: brownsville, TX
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

The prop hub is exactally where you describe it....And I think thats a great place to start...I chose a brass stuffing box over a teflon mostly because I dont have any teflon and to eliminate having to install a strut to support the stub shaft forthe drivedog N' prop.....I recieved my custom made couplers today in the mail, they look nearly identicle to the ones Jetpack shown on the beginning of the Dumas 1/2A club thread....They are threaded 5-40 and accept .098 cable with 4 opposing setscrews..
The center of gravitity is about an inch or so behind the sponsons alos, and if for whatever reasons I need more weight up front I can switch to the modded Golden bee engine. With the slightly larger fuel tank I'm thinking it may add alittle weight up front....
I have a collection of props, mostly the little nylon dumas props for .049's and a handfull of 27mm props. I also have 3 MRP red props & Octura x632, X630, X1630, X430. And a few Dumas props for .09 engines...One of them gotta work...Only thing missing is X427 & dumas metal 1"props....
Old 11-25-2009, 08:40 PM
  #162  
jetpack
My Feedback: (1)
 
jetpack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hobart, IN
Posts: 2,477
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

It's too bad there isn't a light 1 1/8" prop out there with some blade area also to play with.

I want bad to be able to play with diameters and pitch for these, but the only bendable prop is the 1" Dumas until you reach the 1 1/16" (X427) Octura which has tremendous blade area and pitch for an .049 I think without even trying. I think that prop would match up to a TD .09 really nice.

This is one motor class where just a smidgen makes a huge difference simply because it's too easy to rob what power is there, and you have to keep the rpm's in a pretty narrow band to get it in order for the hull to even work proper.

Hopefully RJ your handful will give a good set of clues to work with on sizes.

When I ran mine all I had was the 1" plastic one Dumas has and with a TD it ran like it could use more prop.

The specs on the plastic one I have to guess is the same as the brass only it's lighter, thinnner and probably more accurate blade to blade. Not a bad prop actually for the boat and Bee power would match it if I had to guess to give you a better pic of the prop.

X427 1-1/16D x 1.498P
DUM 1D x 1.0P

One more thing I was facing was not having a throttle to play with to help find out how the motor was loaded. It was through knowing the needle and matching running speeds that helped with that and became my "dyno" sort of speak to get an idea how much power was left in the motor with the only prop and I know there's more room.
Old 11-26-2009, 01:24 AM
  #163  
Air Mover
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NRH, TX
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

There is the Octura 0927 It was originally made for sub surface drive I took one cut it down to 25mm and cupped and reshaped the blade profile to act as a surface prop. Results where excellent and I was able to use it on 60 watt/24.7 k rpmof power with great success.

x632, X630, X1630, X430 those props will not work way tooo much load on the bee. Even the X427 has too much blade area for these motors.

The dumas plastic prop will give you success but as you can imagine the nylon will flex and suffer some losses in speed. The leading edge is dull and loads the engine more robbing speedso then a nice sharp metal edge. But in a pinch itsgoing keep the rpm's up with the bee's. Jets right with a TD there simply isn't enough prop. The TD works well with the metal prop it holds it pitch and make the engine work lil harder.

Jetpack any idea what your all up weight was?

Here is a prop pattern scaled down to Bee size use. When time allows I'm going to make a micro surface prop out of brass for the TD. To get speed you need pitch and nothing is on the market forengines this size to run on the surface.

RJ how many mins of run time do you expect from the small tank. Looks less 1/2 oz.. I use 1 oz tanks with TD's as they are thirsty. Last time I ran a bee was around 14yrs old my fav was the pee wee 020. If I recall you get about 3 mins on stock props. Iread one of the first motors to come back from cox will be the pee wee 020. With all the lite micro rx gear the pee wee could be a rocket on the water in a 1 ft hull.
Attached Images  
Old 11-26-2009, 02:19 AM
  #164  
R.J. West
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
R.J. West's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: brownsville, TX
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

I've been eyeballin' my plastic 27mm props and am almost tempted to start cutting them back a bit...Thats the only thing hurting us is the lack of decent ready to go props...
The babe bee's tank is 5cc and the golden bee's 8cc. I havent ran the engines yet. But my guess is maybe 2-3 minutes...

Now if you guys really want to stick in a Cox pee-wee .20 in a tiny boat,how about those 1/24 scale hydros? I think they're around 15 inches....The thing is, down here I'm gonna be running my boats in one of the many resacas we have in south Texas, and theres alot of fish bigger than 15 inches.......A 12 inch boat might be food for somebody
Old 11-29-2009, 05:18 AM
  #165  
Air Mover
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NRH, TX
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

  What has drawn me to the weee ones is the noise of my TD's. With just a exhaust throttle sleeve they are very loud for neighborhood ponds. Also the TD's. Another reason is the micro rc gear can work well with the lil ones now. Besides the cool factor is the challenge and I wanted the high rpms the lil ones can reach for effect . I'm now unbound from prop dia making my own 20mm prop has shown me that surface running is viable with 020 size engines.  I have been working on my new 1/2A rigger this holiday. I have made a isolation mount and drive line. The drive line is a wopping 1ft long for a very shallow angle of attack at the prop.
Old 11-29-2009, 09:41 PM
  #166  
R.J. West
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
R.J. West's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: brownsville, TX
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

Long time ago i had a P-40 warhawk C/L with a .049, but I dont remember how loud it was....Thats really cool, keep us up to date with your project.
I'm looking forward in firing up my modified golden bee's. I was going to run a tank thru them with a 6x3 prop on my stand to break them in a little before I run them in mt Atlas...I'm still trying to see what my best options in replacing the 'Atlas" decals for the sponsons. I got them to print the correct size finally...But on what paper?
I am bidding on another Atlas online, thinking that I'l just use those decals.....
Old 11-29-2009, 10:31 PM
  #167  
jetpack
My Feedback: (1)
 
jetpack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hobart, IN
Posts: 2,477
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

This 1/24 Testors plastic kit sits with my other pile of projects. It would be a perfect size to master patterns for a scale .020 project.

As far as .049's are about loud, after running a full tank on the bench, you're glad when they run out of fuel.
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Yw69244.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	93.6 KB
ID:	1323343  
Old 11-29-2009, 11:34 PM
  #168  
R.J. West
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
R.J. West's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: brownsville, TX
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

Theres a bunch of 1/24 scale hydros at modelcrafters website too. really cool looking wood kits that I dont see why they wouldnt run with micro gear.....I've seen the Testors model hydro on ebay. Is that a staic kit, or can it be made for running?
Old 11-30-2009, 12:04 AM
  #169  
Air Mover
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NRH, TX
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build



I typed in modelcrafters.com but only found a train site. Do you have a link?

Old 11-30-2009, 12:12 AM
  #170  
R.J. West
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
R.J. West's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: brownsville, TX
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

sorry wrong one.....its here.....www.craftworks.com/hydros/hydros.htm
Old 11-30-2009, 01:27 AM
  #171  
Air Mover
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NRH, TX
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

Thank you,, found this link with 15in hydro's and mono's with running hardware.

http://www.osbornmodelkits.com/RC_model_boat_kits.htm
Old 11-30-2009, 03:22 PM
  #172  
R.J. West
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
R.J. West's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: brownsville, TX
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

Yeah I've seen those before, I think the "Sea Flea" has some potential.....
Old 12-01-2009, 12:37 PM
  #173  
R.J. West
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
R.J. West's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: brownsville, TX
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

Heres the latest scoop on my Atlas. I went ahead and used a 6/32 t-nut in a 1/16 ply epoxied across just under the deck, I then put a hole thru the drivers seat for a 4-40 screw. when i get the chance I'm going to apply a thin strip of clear RTV to forma water proof gasket under the cowl....I had to do some slight trimming and sanding at the rear of the cowl to fit the slight curve of the top of the deck towards the stern....it fits really well....Now i gotta find me an action figure and chop him up to look like a driver, its going to look kinda silly having a scale hydro running w/out a driver....

I finally was able to print a test sample of the "atlas" sponson decal on regular paper. Its about as close as i can get. The color is slightly faded, but I may get back some defination after i spray on my clearcoat....All I really need is a radio....I have everything else, I just have to slap it all together now...
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Om31973.jpg
Views:	68
Size:	104.0 KB
ID:	1324337   Click image for larger version

Name:	Cy77545.jpg
Views:	67
Size:	144.8 KB
ID:	1324338   Click image for larger version

Name:	Hm23715.jpg
Views:	90
Size:	121.6 KB
ID:	1324339  
Old 12-01-2009, 06:08 PM
  #174  
jetpack
My Feedback: (1)
 
jetpack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hobart, IN
Posts: 2,477
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

Oh man, that does fit good. I like the idea of ONE fastener to get to the radio. The hull is looking good too. The word "sleek" comes to mind.

Congratulations on the printout. I would try and look for VICMAN Photo Editor online (free) and see if you can download it and blast the color saturation slider it has, then try and print. It might get rid of the faded look and print more solid for you.

I vote for Spiderman as the driver action hero. [&:] It's making me angry you're farther ahead than I am with mine, which is nowhere yet.

Wanting to re-build this kit is what started me on model boats again after all the years. It is good to see your progress on it all. Very cool.
Old 12-01-2009, 09:40 PM
  #175  
R.J. West
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
R.J. West's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: brownsville, TX
Posts: 503
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default RE: Dumas 1/2A Atlas van lines build

I'm with you on the sleek looking hull!

When I first saw this hull as a kid, man I thought it was the most coolest looking race boat. These gale style hulls look real slim and fast in & out of the water... My most favorite hull designs are the U-71 and the jones designed '73pay n pak, which had a long and succesful careeras the atlas/madison and a few others before retiring in 1987 or '88...
I happen to have a couple Dumas sport 20 pay n paks, a sport 40 size U-71, and a completed U-76 that news a paint job...just won some new hitec mg645's for them...still looking for a 7.5cc k&b, but no dice on ebay yet....
I do have templates for a dumas U-71 sport 40, I may in the future scale them down for a balsa rebuild of this boat.....Not too much info on the net about the gale designed hulls, I've seen a few pics,The '72 madison U-6 looks too cool....

On my Atlas, I'm just taking my time and putting some thought into it....It feels light compared to my Thriftway, which was built according to plans....I'm debating on using my medallion .09 in this one as well, just to experiment.....Since theres not too many props out there that a .049 can swing without modifing, I figured a .09 may have the torque to spin at least a 27mm prop....Gotta keep in mind the addtional drag from a steerable rudder/turnfin. if someone is really bent on saving weight, I would say go ahead and do the cutouts like I did, and skin it with 1/32 ply, maybe 1/64 instead of the mahagony decks, they soak up resin like a dry sponge....but hey, at least I dont have to worry about water damage....
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Lj23493.jpg
Views:	85
Size:	48.5 KB
ID:	1324718   Click image for larger version

Name:	Bw71245.jpg
Views:	89
Size:	116.7 KB
ID:	1324719   Click image for larger version

Name:	Xc80442.jpg
Views:	82
Size:	22.7 KB
ID:	1324720   Click image for larger version

Name:	Sm28457.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	42.3 KB
ID:	1324721   Click image for larger version

Name:	Ec87343.jpg
Views:	75
Size:	121.7 KB
ID:	1324722  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.