marne

hey guys/gals, I'm new here.

I'm not into racing sanctioned events, but embarassingly involved with my hobbies. My new one being this.


That said, I have a 1/12 miss bud pro boat. If *you* wanted to build it up, new motor and other parts, what would you do for max speed? The main reason I ask, is thereare several of us who have decided to hold a bet, with the winner winning the others boats.

They have to be built off this hull however and the mods are limitless. What would you do? .21 OS ? .18 or should I look to doing a .32 conversion?

Thanks!

Mark!

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Alright! A Pinks with boats! A .21 Nova Rossi is the only .21 to use right now. Get something like an Octura 1450 to make it a real drivers boat. Dump the straight shaft if it's that version and go to a flex cable setup. Now hope that the losers blow off the water or stall.
Just curious, what are the rules as that could affect your setup. If it's for more than 4 laps your may have to squeeze a larger fuel tank in there.

Hydro Junkie

There are four things this boat needs:
1) You need to start by looking at the boat's balance. Out of the box, the boat is massively tail heavy. Whatever you can do to lighten the back end is a plus. If the others are running with the wing, make yourself a lighter one or run without it. The worst thing you can do is try to compensate for bad balancing by playing with the wing. You could go from badly balanced to uncontrolable. You want the boat to be balanced at the rear of he sponsons or just behind them. As you make changes, keep checking the balance so that you don't have to add weight up front. Balancing weight can be your friend if used carefully, but in this case, you want speed and heavier doesn't mean faster

2) With the engines Ron mentioned, you will need to get more down force up front or you will be watching the boat dance all over the lake. Take some double backed tape and attach a piece of thin tin or aluminum to the bottom of the wing, extending it back toward the cockpit . At the lake, bend the back up a little at a time and experiment with it until you get it right.

3) If you have the stock Pro Boat hardware, scrap it. There is much better hardware out there that will improve the boat's handling considerably. Make sure the prop is sharpened and balanced or the vibration will shake the boat apart

4) On the lowest part of the sponsons, sand it down with some sandpaper and epoxy on some 1/32 aircraft plywood from the hobby shop. Make sure the plywood extends all the way to the edges and that you fill any gaps between the wood and hull. Sharp edges in this area will net you a little bit more speed as the rounded corners will tend to suck the boat down, resulting in more drag.

misshydro

Ok I'm chimming in on this......subject because I have one with a CMB.21RS Redhead in it.....your going to have proublems with it..for one they have bad SG.. two alot of mod work you have to do on them to get a.21 to work...three those motor are to much for the hull of that size... I can only drive mine at 1/2-3/4 throtle any faster then that,,the boat become unstable and uncontrollable...I have video's of it running and the boat like to skip/jump like a bunny rabbit...If you want a fast miss bud and be stable?? Put a O.S.18TZ,, this requires no mods,just bolts wright up..hard wear I'm using like adjustable strut and rudder are from the Miss Vegas...if you use the.18 get a mac.21 tune pipe for it too.A-ZRacing did a miss bud with a O.S.18TZ that was GPS at 55mhp!!had a mac tunepipe 440/3 prop adjustabe strut..

Sublime_Slayer

Did the O.S. 18TZ have a air cooled or water cooled head? Where do I get a rear exhaust return to center header so it will work with my boat? Thanks....

marne

no rules, anything goes in this hull only.

Has anyone removed the rear wings alltogether? I can just glass over the exposed holes.

Also, does the cg need to be at the end of the sponsons while on plane or just balanced there out of the water.

Dan S

the CG is found outside the water, place the boat on a wooden dowel or broom handle and balance it where HJ said, at the end of the sponsons or just behind.

Dan.

misshydro

you will findout the hard way about these hulls...on the header and watercool head botton..A-ZRacing has them... tell them that misshydro sent you to them.....yes guys have removed the rear tail fins and wings.. I'd keeped mine on,well sort of.. made new ones out of balsa and coated them with reson...did that to lighten the back end of my boat.. but still keeped the tailfins and wing to help pick up the back end too..

Hydro Junkie

Obviously Misshydro didn't read my post about NOT USING THE WING TO COMPENSATE FOR POOR BALANCE. Leave the tails on the boat and either run without the rear horizontal wing or make one from 1/8 and 1/32 plywood. Leave the wing level since the more you try to lift the back with it, the more aerodynamic drag you will get. It will also force the front of the sponsons into the water, adding hydrodynamic drag and will cause the boat to jump at the slightest ripple. Drag means slow, you're out for all the speed you can get. What most of the scale racers do is balance their boats without the tails or wing. They will then mount the tails and wing and adjust the boat's ride with very slight wing adjustments. Since your boat has the molded in tails, try and balance it as close to the sponsons as you can without the rear wing

Sublime_Slayer

I resubmit !

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHLV9&P=RF

TCHedOff

I'm one of those who removed the horizontal wing and vertical stabilizers. I posted the weight savings on a Miss Bud thread here yrs ago (like 2005?). Never did get around to throwing a bigger engine in it (can you say a wedding & a baby), so it's sittin in the basement. One of our club members has a .12 roundnose hydro that runs well, so I've been contemplating putting a NR .12 in one day, and see if we can get another .12 class going (we already have @6 .12 riggers).