kamipalms

Got my new boat yesterday and spent most of the day running it in. Turns out just about every screw was loose and blew the rubber exhaust coupler off the headder twice- loose muffler clamp and loose cable ties on the rubber coupling. Put 2 litres of fuel through the boat yesterday running quite rich and it ran very well.

Took the boat out again today to begin tuning and for the life of me it will not start. changed the glow plug -twice, checked for fuel blockages inc. the carb- all clear , both leaned out and richened up the fuel mix nedles adjusted the idle and the best I could get was a good idle but as soon as I applied any throttle the engine dies regardless of the fuel nedle settings. I flattened my glow ignitor twice before giving up for the day. fuel is 25% , first glow plug was the origonal Go-engines, 2nd plug was an OS A5 and 3rd was an OS A7- fuel and plugs were all brand new , un opened and all 3 plugs glow nicely on the ignitor
I slipped the head off to check things out and its still brand new inside. Piston, sleeve and head are as clean as can be
Any ideas?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

JUust because a glow plug lights doesn't mean that the engine will run with it. I got a quick schooling on this myself a few years ago while trying out a new brand of plug. The boat ran great with an MC-9 yet when I dropped good old Brand X into it, it ran ike crap. The vlesson that day for me was thta the heat ranges on plugs do make a difference.
It could be the plug and maybe not. It could be some other issue.
Let's start with square one. What fuel are you using? I see that it's 25% but car, plane or boat fuel? How's the compression?

kamipalms

ron,
the fuel is 25% car with 10% sinthetic and 5% castor andI add another 5% castor to bring the oil content up to 20%. It ran fine for the first 2 litres of fuel with this mix. I've gone this way because I run my cars on 25% and wanted to keep all the fuel the same.
Compression is as new .
as for the 3 plugs they all still glow nicely on the ignitor . The A5 plug is a cold plug and the # 7 ( not A7) is a medium to hot plug.

Next step is to air leak test the engine

Dan S

Kami,

have a quick look at the bearings also.

just double checking,
your fuel is 25% nitro and 15% oil total and you add an extra 7.7oz of castor oil (5%) to 1 gallon to bring it up to 20% oil correct?

Dan.

kamipalms

Yes , 25% nitro with 15% total oil and if my conversions are correct , I'm adding 2oz of castor to 33.18oz ( 1 metric litre)of fuel.
Just leak tested the engine and the front bearing leaks like a garden sprinkler and the carb leaks at the throttle arm.
I've O rinnged both thefront bearing and throttle arm and she fires straight up. ran half a tank ( hooked up to the garden hose for cooling) and got a good tune with full throttle response.
Took the boatdown the lake (with inwalking distance) for a test run and she ran for a good 2 mins before reverting back to the way it was- no throttle response, excessivly high idle with the carb set below the idle position ( running lean) then dies. I adjusted the mixingnedles again to richen things up and it won't fire.Leaned things off again and still nothing. Flattened my glow ignitor again trying to get it started.
I've run plenty of nitros over the last few years, OS,traxxas, Picco and never had any where the trouble with a nitroengine ( especially a brand new one) as with this Go- Engine.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

You cannot - CANNOT - run an OS glow plug in a non OS engine, as a general rule.
They are too short, and a shorter plug lessens your compression. Compare the OS plug to the one that came out of it - the threaded area on the OS plug is 1/2 to 1 thread shorter than the plug it replaced.

Try running a McCoy MC59 (medium) or MC9 (hot) for that engine and that nitro percentage. If it's water cooled, maybe try the hot? Not a boat guy...happened on the thread when clicking on "new posts"

Anyway, ThunderbirdJunkie is positive somebody that knows more about the subject will chime in.

Also, isn't 25% low for most boats? And is this a car engine you're running?

kamipalms

I checked the plugs for length before fitting either of the OS plugs. the origonal Go-Engines plug is6.222 mm ( seat to threaded end lenght) and the OS plug is 6.216 mm. Didn't think .006 of a mm (23 thou)wouldmake any difference.

The engine is a Go-Engines .25 marine -www.go-engine.com/in-products/21-MR256P-P620OS.htm

toyotatruckin

hes correct on running shorter VS longer plugs changing the compression BUT OS plugs have run for me in non OS engines (they are not my personal fav's),not sure on the fuel needing that high of oil on 25% either I run 40-50% on 12% oil in most every boat running sidewinder AKA morgan fuel even after running a gal through the engine I have yet to see ill effects during tear down from doing so but you dont want to run to lean on this mix so you have to watch itMC9 is a good plug for higher nitro I would give the MC59 a shot on the fuel your using.

Also as said already it very well could be an air leak check the tank fuel lines pressure line and recheck the engine itself-the go engines (at least the 18) are fairly well made BUT the case has a weak spot at the bottom (again .18) there is a relief cut into the inside of the case to allow the rod clearance as it goes around the bottom of the case, on the .18 this area is a little thin at least for my liking with this being where the case halves are factory joined makes a problem area, especially when using a multi piece mount that does not go from one side to the other this leaves the engine to take extra strain in this area a mount that is one piece will support better if you find a hole in it or a crack there you can take a piece of aluminum and JB weld and beef this area up so to say or patch the hole if there is one, this I have done on a couple K&B's in the past with good results..

This may or may not help you out but check into things and take everyones advice to draw your own conclusion and help you with your problem!

here is a picture of a GO .18 cut open so you can see the area Im talking about

toyotatruckin

ThunderbirdJunkie its nice to see someone from outside of boating come in take the time to help out, Thanks to you! ok sorry for hijacking your thread lol

Dan S

Kami,

sorry, I didn't want to sound like your conversion was incorrect, I only wanted to double check.
yes you are correct, your conversion is good. the only thing is the nitro % has dropped to just a tad above 23% but thats not whats causing you all the problems.

since it was running fine during the break in and now you need to O ring the front bearing, that would be a sign that the bearing needs to be replaced or there is something wrong with the case around the front bearing.
from what you just described what she did again, air is definitely seeping in where it should not and she keeps running too lean.

as for plug you may have good success with a cold plug like the Mc 9, or a medium Mc 8.

Dan.

kamipalms

Just leak tested the engine again and the front bearing is still leaking. the O ring I put in has gone so it's off to the bearing shop tomorrow for a new one.
Pretty sad for an engine thats only 2 days old.
I'll revert back to the standard 25% nitro with 15% total oil and the OS #7 plug ( I prefer and run the OS #7 in my Traxxas 3.3 and Picco .26 on the same 25% nitro with good success)

might pull out my nitro truck ( Revo) for a bit of stress relief........

Dan S

Toyota has the experience with the go engine.
I don't know how good and reliable they are and I don't know how much the .25 goes for, myself personally I would spend $225 towards a marine .21 Nova Rossi.

good luck and let us know how it goes.

Dan.

kamipalms

Can you point me towards a $225 marine .21 Nova Rossi ?

Dan S

you can contact Aaron at [email protected]

he is the AUSTRALIAN AND NEW ZEALAND DISTRIBUTOR FOR NOVAROSSI ENGINES.

the one at $225 (pretty sure its still that price, it use to be $215) is the .21 5 port.

Dan.

kamipalms

Thanks Dan but there is 1 online shop here in OZ and his prices for the Nova Rossi are $550.00 .
I think I'll figur out this .25 Go-Engine before upgrading.
I mean for the time it has run it's performance is very good - when it runs.

On another note, I was checking out the Go-Engines web site and the .25 I have differes from the online version. 1st up my casing is the standard aluminum casting color, not the black as pictured and secondly , the site says the .25 has 6 ports + 2. My engine has 4 ports and none in the piston ( +2) as pictured on the site. www.go-engine.com/in-products/21-MR256P-P620OS.htm

otherwise every thing else looks the same.

advanced builder

kamipalms The $ 550.00 is for the NEW .21 flash 7 port I beleave not the 5 port .21

Dan S

Kami,

like I said, get in touch with Aaron, don't just go by the web site.

he has more than one marine .21 to offer. ask him about the marine .21 5 port.

Dan.

misshydro

Any nitro under 30% runs medum glow plugs.. under 20% runs the hot plugs.. 30+ runs a cool plug... that from the MC tec info on towers.. now I know why I was blowing my medums plugs on 33% nitro...kamip if your using car fuels.. you add only 2% castor oil to one quart of car fuel...Been running traxxas 33% racing fuels....one gallon you need about 8oz of castor oil...Hay thunderbird junkie!!! Havent seen your in here for about two years now!! how thing going???Doesnt Glen on waters still have them nova p5 at 215.00??

Dan S

Nessa,

I just went and checked and it looks like they are still $215 (cool) my bad, I know Glenn sells them but doesn't Aaron sells them also?

Glenn is the distributor for North America and Aaron for AUS and NZ.

Kami's oil calculation are good and your 8oz for one gallon is also pretty close Anna.

Dan.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Good afternoon misshydro!
Doing pretty well, gonna be in your neck of the woods in a couple weeks in Wapekoneta

kamipalms

got my new front bearing today , fitted and leak tested....all good!
Re installed the engine , fitted a new headder that actually fits, hooked up the garden hose for cooling and what do you know......
One way bearing for the pull start has spat the dummy.

These Go-Engines are the biggest POS I've ever come across. Never again!

The boat on the other hand is well worth the money even with a POS Go-Engine

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

Kami, this is interesting feedback.
ThunderbirdJunkie has been researching the line of Go big blocks for a new engine for his monster truck...obviously not going to ask whether you'd recommend it:P

But could any of this be due to it being developed for car use initially, rather than boat use? Would imagine despite the fact that boats don't land top-first from 15 feet in the air into the ground (unless you're REALLY talented....) that being in a boat would be a lot rougher on an engine than a similar engine in a car. Granted, that wouldn't explain any of the issues so early on

The one-way bearing, at least in rc cars (again, don't know what kind of starting system you're using) is a common occurrence for high-oil fuels or trying to start when flooded, and front bearings even in high-end Piccos and such are also pretty common, among other makes like Kingstar (supplier of a good number of HPI's engines, and Axials, if you've ever heard of them)

Sorry, now just being nosy, trying to get as much info as possible, because the Go 28 3 port was looking AWFUL good for its price point and power

kamipalms

mate,
The only thing I'll say is the experiance I've had with this particular engine has put a very bitter taste in my mouth towards the manufacturer.
I would never recomend them but thats only based on my experiance.
On the car/truck side of things, I love the traxxas 3.3 engines and then there are people who wouldn't touch them so it's allways going to be a personal experiance to know if you made the right decision or not.

the only thing that really differs between car and boat engines is the cooling head, otherwise their the same. most marine engines come with rotary carbs but theres no reason you couldn't use a slide ( if the linkages are available or could be made to suit)
All my other nitro's run pull starts including this Go-Engine. Their the easiest for me.
i suppose at the end of the day, I've got a brand new nitro engine thats had aroud 4 hours use and its failing every way it can, as you can imagine, I'm not happy.

advanced builder

I paid $ 40.00 for my Go .12 I wonder how many runs I will get. You Get what you pay for.My.12 Nova Rossi $215.00

kamipalms

Changed the one way bearing last night. The Go-Engines OWB looks as though all of the chrome plating had come off the needle rollers or the parts that make the bearing one way had come out. Changed the bearing over and re assembled.
tried to start it again this morning and were back to square one. Revs uncontrollably with the throttle closed ( still getting too much air form some where)
The only thing I hadn't done was to pressure test the fuel system so I removed all of the radio gear from the boat, plugged the intake and exhaust, clamped the fuel line to the carb, and submerged the whole boat under water, engine and all. I used a length of fuel line to the carb and blew as hard as I could.
not 1 bubble came up.
So that's the final straw for this Go-Engine
4 hours use, $60.00 in parts and now headed for the rubbish bin.