toyotatruckin

Ok Ive never been around a thunder tiger outboard (till now) On the front bevel gear bearings is the top one supposed to be pressed on the shaft as in wont let the gear slid up and down the shaft when the case is together, mine dont slide if it did I believe it would cause problems but want to make sure, it has almost zero run time on it and never run on the rebuilt top end (had a problem the first outing and had to have the engine rebuilt) it has been sitting (inside) for a long time not used since. Everything inside looks great but if its ment to be like it is how is the best way to set the gear mesh when going back together, next question is on the K&B's Ive run I just drilled a oil hole or used the factory hole on the newer ones and oiled the lower no grease but with the gear drive is it best to grease the lower? Just not sure on this sucker thats why I ask should sell it and buy a K&B I know them inside and out lol, Thanks

misshydro

Hay PM jwmods=jerry wyse.. You remember him for waters.. ? He the king on moding and working on TT motors.. His favorites are the outboards...

toyotatruckin

For some reason I cant find the user name in RCU

Dan S

Nessa,
do you mean Jerry Wyss on IW ?

Dan

toyotatruckin

yes she does but im ban from IW

Dan S

lol
Mike.

your a bad boy.

toyotatruckin

yeah, naughty me-I guess lol

JWMods

I'm Here Toyo! jeez, I never thought you would get a TT,, grouched about'em all the time,,.

I put the "C" ring in the right lower half,(kinda press it down into its groove so it stays)

Put the brass ring in top side of small ball bearing along with the caged roller below the gear.

Kinda feed that assembly at a slight angle into its bed and let the caged roller set down just a little
lower than all the way up in its cut space. The reason for this is that the end of the cage can rub on
the bottom of the gear.

Push up on the gear so it sets against the "C" ring and brass ring and seat it all down into its bed.

I set the teflon tube so it touches the lower end of its channel,, leave the flex out until the lower
halves are mated and tightened.

Mate up the PTO (or entire powerhead) and check the lash. It should be totally free,, if the lash tightens
somewhere in the rotation the gears will have to be lapped with compound. I use a "used" lower and bearings
for this operation or you may get compound in the new bearings.

If the lash is too loose a gasket can be made for between the PTO and Lower to cinch things up.

The flex cables normally have to have the ends shaped like a half sharpened pencil so they're easier to load
into the lower. The flex end goes into the propshaft assembly and then load the two parts. Hand threading the
propshaft most of the way and you will have to manipulate the flywheel and back and forth with the threaded
propshaft to work the other end of the cable into its Ho.

With the flex in and the LH propshaft assembly tightened up you will feel some resistance,, new cables are like that.
Free as possible is is what you looking for, othwise your losing speed.

misshydro

ya amen to your commit jerry..[X(][8D]I remember intlwaters chat room how two guys would bash on them..wonder who was the two guy where???[&:]

toyotatruckin

LOL HUMMMMM that would be me for sure BUT I got hull and outboard for $50 local how is one supposed to say no to that? I got it from an older guy and plan to restore the hull and run it. Not a premium hull but will look cool all done.. Was a dust collector as you can see below, anyway jerry could ya help me out on the above questions.....PLEASE!!!!![sm=drowning.gif][sm=drowning.gif]

JWMods

Ahh gawd,, it looks like you may have a 12mm crank motor. It has the straight constant diameter exhaust nipple.
Also its missing the extra web in the front housing,, that's the only two ways you can tell that its a 12mm crank model.

How about the propshaft,, which direction does it turn to take it out?

But I have had a straight C/D exhaust that did have a 13mm crank in it,, but it did have the extra web.

toyotatruckin

prop shaft unscrewsleft just like a normal right hand thread The lower I have taken down cleaned up and put back (still need to know about the gear mesh and is it best oil or grease in this lower)
Engine I'll get pulled down here after awhile

JWMods

Theres a "fuel type nipple" on the upper right side of the lower. I take that out and use a "grease pistol" thats
made for "chain saw roller tip" on the end of the chain bar. I use NAPA "Engine Assembly Grease" that comes
in a large sqeeze tube. This stuff is thin and will travel well thoughout the lower.

I don't have cable issues much but I usually have 3 in rotation when I'm racing. You wad one up with the teflon
tube and your in for some surgery. I know it may sound weird but a totally stock TT can break flexshafts much
easier than my full mod motors. A stock TT has more torque than a fully modded one, it can run a full 40mm
X640 Octura,, thats it favorite prop. A Mod motor has to use a smaller prop to achieve it higher rpm,, thats
the "trade-off" that the engine builders have been always saying.

JWMods

You have the earliest motor that they made,, they have issues,, the main one is that when the propshaft assembly
is tightened up,, it can spread the lower halves apart. That little collar on the front of the propshaft is supposed to
capture a thinned part of each lower sides. They break there if the propshaft spreads the halves at all, sorry.

The only remedy is the newer LH threaded lower halves, along with a new LH propshaft assem. They really
beefed that "Bulge" where the propshaft threads in,, and that problem was over.

toyotatruckin

yes its a 12mm crank the fuel nipple goes straight into the exhaust chamber BUT there is an open hole just up and forward of that it goes into the gear housing for your lube. Tight prop shaft and dont see it spreading the cases any, do need to make a pin for the drive dog he put a body clip in the pins place so it wouldnt get lost, piston and sleeve are brand new never seen a drop the rest of the engine looks to be in great shape just needs a good cleaning, so you know Im not a TT fan it may end up turning into a K&B before Im all done with the boat, but never know everything seems to be in good shape may run the thing

JWMods

I have a pipe and header here that we could put on it before you went to a K&B, clean its figgin' clock,, k&b

Anyway, Yeah, try to get a section of paperclip in place of the TT lil tiny roll pin,, cut the ends fairly short and
peen them a bit.

Just putting on a pipe and header,, pick out the .010" aluminum head shim and pinch down the water will
make them quite spirited and very reliable. I had zero luck with the muffler,, Tim Duggan said he got 40mph
out of a stocker,, I've never seen anything like that.

Sean Bowf

Nitro?? Yota?? What happened??

Sean

toyotatruckin

little sucker cleans up nice, inside and out may just see how she runs this spring - since were on OBs you ever try one of the associated pipes? Sean if I can swing it ill be racin that little blue mono in your class

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Gee, I wonder who?
Mike, I'd unload that TT OB on some poor unsuspecting soul! I haven't seen one yet that could whip on an antique K&B. It might have a shot at the eBay special![sm=lol.gif]

toyotatruckin

Hey Hey now dont knock K&B's, Ive had some good luck with them, sure they arnt the best and sure if you buy a new one you have to make sure all the ports are cut into the block BUT thats beside the point lol

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

I've had a few K&B OB's in my time also, two 3.5's and two 7.5's. I was never impressed with the Thunder Tiger's though but that could have been the owners.

toyotatruckin

Nice and clean again!Kinda sexy aint it lol

JWMods

I like'm more like this

topfuel4430

Haha... I built one of those frankenmotors.

Never did run the stupid thing. Needed a prop shaft. Been sitting in the motor pile ever since.



Jerry, you and the misses need a vacation to Charleston SC for the worlds this year.

~ James

JWMods

Hey Top!, Goin' to that race would be a little over the top for me. I was ticked cause I had to go just north of Seattle to
the NAMBA Nats.

I still have my O.S.30 too,, I run it in our clubs Open Tunnel some times. Its pretty hard on flexshafts but a very strong
running engine once hopped up a mite.