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.18 Mono

Old 02-13-2010, 08:01 PM
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toyotatruckin
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Default .18 Mono

Here Ron I got you a couple pics of the mono I'm building, should hit right up your alley, 25" OS CVR turned down head and removed several cooling finsmay remove more later, Macs 15* header, Macs 3.5HN cut down pipe, custom built the hardware except the actual strut blade, custom made muffler, bench set the pipe length at 8 3/8" and will go from there. I went with a LT Montego blue effects on top and GM white on the bottom base clear even broke out the good dupont chromaclear on this one Radio box is next some of the pictures didnt come out as nice as I would have liked them to BUT Ill get more later..






Old 02-14-2010, 10:30 AM
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Ron Olson
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Default RE: .18 Mono

Nice looking boat! I wouldn't go any further with lopping off fins yet as the're not too many right now in the breeze.
As for headers, I really like the Traxxas header when they have to go in where the engine is angled but they need port matching something bad. The Mac header should do the job though plus is shinier!
Old 02-14-2010, 03:23 PM
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toyotatruckin
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Default RE: .18 Mono

Yeah I cut just enough fins off to bring it just below the deck, add one fin to what I have it brings it above so I turned a little diameter off allthe top two I turned more to give it a tapered look instead of being so block looking, will adjust that if it needs to be after running it. The macs header also needs a little port matching done to it, but the engine work will be last.
I worked the bottom of the boat over and all ride areas are good and straight/square before paint so it still needs hit with some fine grit so it will break loose better and not sure the hull will need the trim tabs but I made them as bend to adjust for now if I find it has to run them Ill make some top adjuster plates so they will hold a tune..I have a ton of time in the hardware on this one, the polishing isnt done yet either, still have the pipe to do and may etch some flames into it but not sure yet, depends how frisky I get, kind of want it done already...
Old 03-25-2010, 12:18 AM
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toyotatruckin
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Default RE: .18 Mono

Ok got more done to the little beast, radio box is built and sealed, pictures make it look bigger than it is, for reference I posted one with my servos in it (no nuts on bottom yet so they are a little crooked), one CS-12 and a HS-325HB (mini and standard sizes)
also made the top adjustment plates and got them mounted up, had a topic over batteries a couple weeks ago, after building the box and getting servos in it there is no way a 5 cell flat pack will fit without removing a servo every time the pack needed to come out-not even a 4 cell, it has room for them but since I offset the radio box lid and made the opening smaller just wont work (offset for ease of taping since pipe goes over that edge of the box). So I am just going to run lipo's in all my boats now, an 800mah 2s and regulator will slide in over the servo AND I get to keep my 6v!! even some 3s packs will fit..




Old 03-25-2010, 12:22 PM
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matt420
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Default RE: .18 Mono

Lookin very good TT,myself polished everything up for my little .12 hydro, man is it time consuming. Especially when the wheel slings parts across the garage lol !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Old 03-25-2010, 12:25 PM
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toyotatruckin
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Default RE: .18 Mono

Yeah dont ya love having a nice part you worked go bouncin across the concrete floor lol
Old 03-25-2010, 04:07 PM
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Default RE: .18 Mono

Nice looking hull ,TT she will fly
Old 03-25-2010, 07:14 PM
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toyotatruckin
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Default RE: .18 Mono

Thats what im shooting for-21 or close speed and a ton of stable and consistent- its smaller than a 21 hull but quite a bit lighter so with the power it should be right in place with most 21's only thing i can see with the smaller lighter hull it may be a hand full in race water no matter how stable i get her runnin
Old 03-25-2010, 09:17 PM
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Default RE: .18 Mono

Question... why cut the fins off the head?
Old 03-25-2010, 10:01 PM
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toyotatruckin
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Default RE: .18 Mono

kind of trial and error to get it correct but these engines are made to be run under a lexan body, stop go,etc not really designed for full throttle out in the wide open at the cooler water level so to get it closer to temp I dropped some fins, may have to remove more may not, only real time tuning will let me know which way to go with things, look at the K&B 3.5ss as an example 2 fins on its head-ive run less than 4 on small boats and I believe ron is the one who showed me an air cooled rigger that was taken clean down to the button also believe he has an air cooled nova with not much on top hope that helps answer the question
Old 03-25-2010, 11:47 PM
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Default RE: .18 Mono

I'm trying to think of who's boat that was as several have only run with enough of a heat sink to hold the head button on but I'm not quite that crazy...... yet. I want to say that is was Glenn Quarles or Kentley Porter.
Kaw, the engines were originally made to be put under a Lexan body with very little air flow on a hot, dusty track. When we drop them into a hull the engines get plenty of cool air off the water so they don't need that extra weight hanging out there. You need a certain amount of heat to get the most out of any boat engine so all of those fins aren't needed.
Old 03-28-2010, 09:30 PM
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kawjs550sx
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Default RE: .18 Mono

Gotcha, didn't think there was such a thing as too much cooling but it does make perfect sense thinking of peak performance. I am interested in this build considering I have a spare o.s. .18 sitting on my workbench...

Yota - did you glass that hull up yourself and how long is it?
Old 03-28-2010, 09:32 PM
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Default RE: .18 Mono

also, what coupler did you use for the OS driveshaft?
Old 03-28-2010, 10:26 PM
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Default RE: .18 Mono

That's an Octura part on his, probably 5mm threaded to either .125/.130" or .150".
Old 03-29-2010, 12:49 AM
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toyotatruckin
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Default RE: .18 Mono

yes I always use octura couplers (except gas boats) its 5mm to .150 shaft, the hull is 25" long and frank ( in china) is who lays them up, he does very good glass work from most of what ive seen from him and ive had a bunch of his boats pass through my fingers. I also have a couple more of these hulls here if you need, they come with a cowl But no need for it in my opinion and is an extra headache as things are already stuffed tight take mine for example it had a cowl and deck lip for it to rest on-toss the cowl in the closet and trim the lip out of the hatch opening looks clean never know there was supposed to be one on it PLUS it gives you just that much more room in the hull to work with, the wildthing mono is also a good hull if your looking to build one
Old 03-29-2010, 08:39 AM
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Default RE: .18 Mono

Great looking boat! What is the price on one of those hulls?
Old 03-29-2010, 08:23 PM
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toyotatruckin
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Default RE: .18 Mono

frank sells them at 48+28 shipping(has to float a long way to get here lol) i have a white one with cowl for 50 plus shipping (comes from kansas much cheaper lol) thats the best of the 3 in the closet need any more info on one shoot me a PM-gotta follow rules of the board and all..[8D]
Old 03-30-2010, 10:41 PM
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toyotatruckin
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Default RE: .18 Mono

Well tank tray cut, sealed, and glassed in, tank lines set-up, not a great ton of room to get the hands in there to strap the tank down side to side like I like so zip-tie front to back fit the need.If your wondering what the black zip tie looped on the engine rail is for its to hold the fuel filter and line away from the engine-I should have flipped the carb over and ran the inlet to the other side BUT radio box is already set to run like it is..Also notice the paint fix, WOOPS had to fix a chip before i even hit the water with it lol
Old 03-31-2010, 08:42 AM
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Default RE: .18 Mono

I have one of the Frank , hulls I have had a hard time getting the COG @ 33% I ended up with a home made fuel tank that fits behind the radio box, going to redo the radio box, no box My hull has a cover Them hull need weight in the back to get your COG
Old 03-31-2010, 01:14 PM
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toyotatruckin
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I have ran across some hulls that wouldnt CG no matter how it was done (1/12 proboat hydros will not CG correctly for one) BUT range from 25-35% cg is what i usually go by on mono's depending on power used, example if I were putting a DYN .15 id start the off the bench CG at around 27%(give or take one or two), I did a mock-up before mounting everything, what parts i didnt have before the build i estimated on, I figured like this, hull 25"x 30% puts it at 7.5" from the transom, simple..Right now it is dead on where I wanted it to be with everything sitting in the hull less fuel and where I want to start out off the bench at. Fuel being up front may or may not be good, I will see with on the water running, it will lighten up as fuel is used-how much it effects it is what i am after in tuning, if it has undesirable effects I may switch to running two tanks-tank center lines just forward the cg line a little and adjust cg back to where it was by adding a little weight till its right.
Old 03-31-2010, 02:37 PM
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Default RE: .18 Mono

You may be good with the stuff you have on the transom. I wish I had put my stuffing tube out the end. like that strut you have
Old 04-08-2010, 10:02 PM
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Default RE: .18 Mono

well when my hull comes i plan on painting it, ive got white, green, red, and silver at my fingertips.

wonder what kinda paint scheem i shoud do?

what size shaft and stuffing tube did you use? is there a teflon liner in that tube, or on the shaft???
Old 04-08-2010, 11:30 PM
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toyotatruckin
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I dont use Teflon liners on any boats, shaft I used is a .150 with a 3/16 stub and 1/4" stuffing tube, You can drop the stuffing tube down to 7/32 and I have done this before But its not "normal" so to say since the bearings are 7/32 with a 1/4 stop collar for a 3/16 stub....To run the smaller tube you will need to make the end of the tube the bearing or have a step in it someplace, what I mean by the stuffing tube the actual bearing is run the tube the full length allowing no bearing space-drill your holes(or slots) in the end of the stuffing tube itself then put a 1/4 sleeve soldered over the holes so it fits the strut correctly.Also need to make the stuffing tube removable, which is not uncommon you would need to glass in a 1/4 tube into the hull aka the stuffing box, (just a short one) and run the stuffing tube through the stuffing box, makes for easy removal and no re-glassing if you ever have to replace the stuffing tube, below are some pictures showing how I did a vegas with the smaller tube, but my way is not the only way




Old 04-08-2010, 11:45 PM
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Default RE: .18 Mono

on the painting, true it is a white hull so if you prep the hull correctly primer is not a "have to" step, here it is-BUT, lol if you want the best performance and handling from it (like most hulls) you need to go over the bottom and true things up, make sure there are no hooks or rockers in it etc "blue print" the bottom, the seam even though is nice should be hit with a primer before paint to make sure there are no little pin holes or edges, block in the transom to, any place you had to cut like the pipe area if you run the cowl or the inside lip if you dont needs hit with primer to find any marks you may not be able to see before the paint hits it, once its painted its to late to turn back and the paint will show everything. Next is since you primed bits and pieces you may as well prime it all due to the darker spots bleeding through, example if you were to have prime spots here and there over the white gel and you painted it yellow the darker spots would bleed through of course you can keep adding coats to get it to cover but you dont want that..
Old 04-09-2010, 12:04 AM
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Default RE: .18 Mono

Mike, I tried a slightly different approach to making holes for the grease to set in for the propshaft, making diagonal slots using a Dremel cut-off wheel. I felt that it gave better coverage of the greae and was easier to do than drill holes.

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