brianl1620

I have cash now, which one would you let go?

advanced builder

brianl1620, you have a PM

brianl1620

0k this is what I have so far. Any ideas or advice?

brianl1620

here's a few more.

brianl1620

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brianl1620

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Hydro Junkie

SLOW DOWN, YOU'RE GOING TOO FAST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!
Okay, at this point, everything looks good, though I'm a little worried about that canard tube. Can you still pull the engine bay walls together enough to fit the bottom to them as well as get the cowl over the top? If not, you're going to have to slot the holes in the front of those pieces

brianl1620

yes they pull in, I checked them and I can easily pull them in till they touch each other.

brianl1620

I'm using a solid 1/4 inch aircraft ply transom, and the inside sponson frames, as well as the cockpit side frames are 1/8 aircraft ply. also going to install 1/4 inch aircraft ply doubler where the turn fin goes. Other than those mods, the rest is stock wood. where else can I put holes to lighten the hull and still keep the hull strong enough and also allow it to float with out putting foam in the boat?

brianl1620

right now I'm just tacking the frames down too keep it square and true with ca, then I will go back with West system's epoxy.

specialk1

great work here is mine

R.J. West

I would considercutting lightening holes in the sponson frames, all except the sponson transom frame of course. if your frames are already glued in then wait until your sponson stringers are in before attempting to cut holes, or else you run the risk of snapping the frames.
I used a dremel right angle drive and a router bit to cut the holes in my pay N pak. it was a bit of a racket too with the dremel resonating loudly against the frames, I may have lost some hearing. I followed up with a dremel med grade drum sander to shape them.

brianl1620

thats a good looking boat

Hydro Junkie

Okay, now that I'm home again, I'll take a look at the boat tomorrow and get back to you on where you can lighten it up more.

brianl1620

thanks hydro!

brianl1620

I did some more lightening in the front sponson area, and put some stringers on, here is what I got so far. Please feel free for anyone to advise.

brianl1620

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brianl1620

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brianl1620

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Hydro Junkie

Looks like you did okay, so far. I'd take a Dremel and remove a majority of the material from the glue blocks on the sponson transoms, ALL THE WAY THROUGH the transoms. Another option would be to remove the kit supplied parts and use 1/8th square spruce stock instead and drill out the area between the blocks and sponson insides

brianl1620

not really sure I know what your talking about.

Hydro Junkie

You glued a piece of plywood on the back of both sponsons to attach the nontrip to. You can remove the whole center of them, as well as the sponson transoms. Let me show you

brianl1620

ok I see, this will not weaken my turn fin will it?

brianl1620

I do not want to use anything for floatation (foam), so by doing this won't I open up my sponsons and they will no longer be air tight, on the flip side I can see how if I got water inside my sponsons, they would now be able to have the water shook out. Baciscally I want my boat to be light without using foam floatation, but I still want it to float if it was to flip over. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks Hydro!

Hydro Junkie

As long as you have 3/16ths to 1/4 ply for the sponson transoms, you will be fine as far as the skid fin goes. As for having a hole in the sponson transom, you need to have a drain in both sponsons anyway, but if you look closely, you will see that the holes in my sponsons are not going anywhere except into another part of the boat. Also, you will notice that I have the engine bay walls solid to prevent the boat from flooding if it ends up upside down