andybenton

got my hull in today, aswell as my motor.

hull looks really good. bottom has no major defects, only thing i can see that i need to work on is the seam, which i was prepaired for.

thanks again mike. your awsome dude.
couldnt be happier.


im either going to go for the supertiger q18. or the macs pipe.

i need to get the motor mounted and a header on it, so i can order the pipe and begin fitting things in their.

i think im going to run fuel in the rear, and radio box up front in the nose.

toyotatruckin

not sure Ive ever seen a mono with a front mounted radio box But play with set-ups see what works out for you, start it around 30% give or take a bit from the transom forward (measure from the outside of the hull forward) Also glad everything got there ok!

andybenton

im gonna play around with it.

i filled my fuel tank with denatured alcohol, put in my mock radio box, and filled it with all the stuff, servos, radio, etc.

sat the motor in with some foam under it, and checked the balance point and its about 35% roughly, so after i get the pipe and rest of the hardware, it should be just about right.

infiniti03

Is theGO .18 rear exhausta direct bolt on for the BJ26 with no mods required.

amax

Everthing but the Rear Exhaust Part is, The engine in the BJ26 is a side exhaust engine. You will need a New Header, and the pipe will be located diferantly.

tonywayne

nice info

siberianhusky

I've got one of the ST q-18 pipes, havn't got it trimmed to length yet, It seems like a really heavy pipe! It weighs more than a K&B 7.5cc muffled pipe! about twice as thick aluminum in it! I've only got about 4 tanks through it so I can't comment on performance, it is quiet, really knocks the high end off the sound, leaves more of a deeper tone.
Make sure to take it off the boat and turn it upside down to drain out of the outlet hole when you're done running. The way its designed traps a lot of oil in the pipe that can only be drained by removal and standing it on end.
The ST header if you are using that needs a lot of work with a dremel before use. It comes nowhere near to matching the exhaust port, needs widening a lot and a bit more height to get smooth exhaust flow. The gasket that they come with is a horrible match, I tossed it and lapped the flange flat and bolt it straight to the engine with a bit of high temp gasket spray. If I can find some thin soft copper stock I may make up a couple of copper gaskets to try.
Not sure if I'd get another just because of how heavy it is.
I have access to all the top end tuned pipe design software from a 2 stroke tuning and racing wizard here in town, both of us are RD350 fanatics. If I was better with a TIG welder I'd love to make a few pipes to try! I know I'd be blowing holes through that thin aluminum or sheet metal. Would be easy enough to roll up the cones on a slip roll.
Wish my old welding shop teacher was still alive, day one he tigged a pop can back together to show us it can be done! That was 25 years ago though!
Hmmm with a jewelers torch I could braze thin sheet metal. The bronze seams might look neat!