Rc boat sealing electrics
 

Hi. I'm looking for a solution to seal my electrics. I want to silicon the hatch onto the boat so it won't leak but then I don't know how I will charge the battery and then switch it on or off.
the boat is nitro and has the electrics in the back.
I am really struggling to seal it.
Please can anyone suggest a sealing option for me

Have you tried quality radio box tape? It works well in most applications.

http://gizmomotors.com/index.php/onl...ox-tape-detail

http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index....roducts_id=485

Thanks for your response
is there any way I can waterproof my switch so it can be mounted to hatch and then will not let water in and not get damaged?
also, I was thinking of a more permanent solution to the hatch. I don't really want to keep undoing the tape every time I stop to charge and switch off radio
any ideas???

You can try this setup with the switch.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMNK2&P=0

Also spray a little WD-40 in the switch before putting the cover on it, WD-40 disperses water and some dielectric grease on all connections. As far as the charge port, you could notch the lip of the cowling so the wire tucks in when you put it on and just the port will stick out and cover it with dielectric grease before running. Be liberal with the grease BTW, you can't use to much.

This might work for you
Dave

http://shop.dubro.com/p/kwik-switch-...essories?pp=12

That's an even better setup, I didn't think to look on DuBros site. Good suggestion! I'd still use WD-40 and dielectric grease, it definitely won't hurt anything.

I'd go with the dubro switch/charging jack combo Shneiera, the should be easy to recess into the cowling.

Thanks again guys.
But do u think the open charging port will be fine from water with just wd40 and grease?
but that does look great for charging reasons and I won't ever have to open the hatch wich is good

Yes, literally pack the charge port with dielectric grease after installed and between every connection.

Does any one know where I can get dielectric grease?
cause I asked at builders express and no luck. They had never heard of it.
They recommended vasoline. Does anyone think that will work instead?
i live in South Africa so does anyone know a place here to get the grease?

It's also called dielectric connector protector. If there is an Auto Parts or Hardware store near wherever you live, they should have some.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMERICAN-GRE...c2b6e8&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VersChem-Die...8ced0f&vxp=mtr

Thanks again for all your help.
One more question...
i want to make a hole at the back of the boat to put a drain hole for the electrics. Does anyone know of a way to make a plug from things at a hardware? Something that's easy to disconnect?

How about this, I put one in my Hydro Formula.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMNK8&P=ML

http://images.rcuniverse.com/gallery.../lg-240096.jpg

I was thinking of one that I could make at home?

You could probably make something similar to this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXEU6&P=7

Just try to find/make a small rubber grommet and whatever you can make/use to plug it with.

I agree on Dupro switch and are all my boats have them. Before you tighten the outside nut down, put a little grease under nut for insurance against leakage. You could use like the Europeans do with a connection which is visable on the outside but cost more to set it up that way. I use my switch for external power for rx and also shuts down juice so I don't cut fingers with prop, OUCH!!!! Been there and cut wrist real bad with several cuts and never stood a chance. BTW, taping hatch down is worth every second you do it. Now a over turned boat or one that has just the bow out of water, makes a person SICK. YUP, been there!

Thanks for all ur help
im def gonna try look for that switch.
Does anyone have any tips to set the nitro engine perfectly so it doesn't cut out in middle of dam?
its a 35 engine that should go in a plane but I've put a cooling clamp around it.
The engine is quite old and the carb was very bad so I put a carb from a car I had.
It idles fine now but when I try put power then it dies.

You may have the high speed needle set to lean. Try resetting it by turning it all the way in clockwise just till it stops, then set it at 3 1/2 turns out from closed and see what it does. You want the motor to hesitate a little when you stab the throttle on shore, it leans itself out when the water puts a load on the prop.

And the boat must be in the water while tuning, right?

Yes and no, the 3 1/2 turns out is a baseline setting that should get you close. Start it up and throw it in and make a few laps to get it warmed up, the motor should sound blubbery (rich). Bring it back in, top off with fuel and lean it 1/8th of a turn each time you bring it in till the motor revs smooth and has good rpm at top speed. It may take 2 or 3 times of bringing it in and throwing it out to fine tune it. If you lean it to where the motor is screaming and cutting out with less top speed, it's too lean and more than likely running hot.

Once you get the high speed needle tuned, you can then tune the low speed needle for crisp throttle response while maintaining a steady idle. Turning the low speed needle clockwise will lean/raise the idle and turning it counter clockwise will richen/lower the idle.

Tune settings can also change depending on weather conditions. It's just one of those things you'll figure out the more you run the boat and get use to how it responds to your settings.

Thanks again.
I think I've been doing it a bit wrong cause I've only had my pool to do it in and I've been holding it which I think may make it struggle more and then not run correctly?
It's been idling ok but when I put power then it sometimes revs full and then eventually dies down and cuts. I'm not sure if that's too lean or it's just cause I'm not letting it gain speed.
I think it'll be better on the weekend when I let it free in the dam which ll make it easier to tune ( except for the recovery part)
it does look like its smoking a lot and little unburnt fuel comes out of exhaust but I think it may be too lean due to the acceleration and then Dying straight away.
Does anyone know if 10% nitro will do or if I should buy a higher nitro fuel?
any other tips from this post?

I'd go with at least a 30% nitro for sport boating and reset that high speed needle and toss it in. You should always have a little smoke, light to no smoke with high revs is too lean.

You don't want to permanently seal the radio box it WILL condensate inside with Temp Changes, also batteries get warm\hot during charging causing condensation and air expansion which could push lid Up and break the seal. dielectric grease is also know as Bulb Grease for automotive and trailer bulbs, it works Very well for waterproofing rx and servos but don't put A Lot in the Gearbox of the servo but you can fill the bottom box of the servo that contains the motor and motherboard. CorrosinX and CRC HD corrosion inhibitor also work very well.

For drainage i like to use a blind nut and a stainless bolt with the blind nut you dont need a wrench on the inside of the hull (same setup as bildge plug on full size hulls ) and if you want to keep charging jack dry cut top part od a waterbottle (neck) epoxy it into the radio box hatch then unscrew top and pull out charging jack

They also make a 1/2 " bilge plug that I have in the top of my box. I remove it when not running so it will dry out.
Dave

My 2 cents. I stay away from WD-40 and Vaseline in boats. Vaseline will melt and make a mess. WD-40, I just don't like it for use on electronics at all. Dialectric grease can be found at auto parts stores, usually in small packets like those used for condiments.
I agree with amax as I wouldn't seal up the radio box anyway because of condensation problems. Go ahead and try it by sealing the box then set it outside in the sun. I'm also a big believer in Corrosion X or The Stuph. There are some boaters that aren't using radio boxes at all after using those products on their receivers and servo's. If you use the Du-Bro switch mount you can also glue a baby bottle nipple to the bolt to further waterproof it.