RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Your CG should be 4 3/4" from leading edge at Fuse. Very important that you balance laterally. Remove the prop. Set the prop shaft on a flat object. Raise plane from the back at center point to level position, check and adjust lateral balance.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Thanks for the compliment!

The engine is a Fox 46 ABC with a macs muffled pipe. I am using an APC 9x9 sport prop.

I'm adding a strip of ultracot between the aileron and wing to cover the gap. Hopefully this will reduce the flutter.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Thanks for the info..Been looking forward to flying this thing..

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Does anyone make Shrike 40 kits anymore, or does someone have plans for sale?

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

couple more pics,,I'll try to post a vid of the flight later this week, way under powered comparied to some on here. But allot lighter with the 81s

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

not sure how old this add is but worth a shot..
http://www.cma1193.com/ForSale/for_sale_bulletin.htm

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Lanier was bought out and the kits are no longer being made. You can find kits for sale on E Bay sometimes and they usually go for over twice the original price. I have plans and instruction booklet for both the 10 and 40 kits. The plans are no good with out the templets for the cutout parts. I have computer printout templets for the 10 but not the 40. I'm working on having them 40 made. I can however trace the templets I made for the printout. I charge a nominal fee plus reprint and mailing costs. All monies made go to my Flying Club to help with our expenses. It's nonprofit so I guess you could write it off on your taxes. If anyone is interested contact me off forum. [email protected] Dave...

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

For anyone who's interested, I did some calculations based on the 40 size plans:

Wingspan: 43.5"

Root chord (Using the LE and TE of the ailerons extended to the centerline of the fuse): 17.625"

Tip chord: 6.8"

MAC (mean aerodynamic chord): 12.2"

Wing Area: 530 square inches, or 3.68 square feet

Factory Center of Gravity recommendation is 0.9" aft of the forward spruce spar, which translates to 2.0" on the MAC, or 16.3% of MAC. Conservative by "normal" airplane standards, but typical of delta wings, which this is but with a short stab stuck on the back. (Deltas seem to range anywhere from 5% MAC to 20% MAC CofG, depending on the shape of the triangle.)

The "normal airplane" 25% C of G would be at 3" on the MAC, and would probably result in gross instability, assuming one could stuff enough lead in the tail to actually get it there.

If one can keep the RTF (fueled) weight down to 55.2 oz, the wing loading translates to 15 ounces per square foot, which is generally safe hand launching territory, as stall speed is 16-17 mph. Even I can throw one that hard, most of the time. :) At weights above 55.2, I think some sort of dolly or landing gear is probably wise, unless you have a really strong wind to throw it into. I had one with a 40 LA on it, and remember that I had it balanced dead on the recommended 16.3% point, but don't remember the RTF weight. I do remember that unless there was a decent breeze, it could get hairy trying to hand launch it. It wanted to dutch roll like crazy until it got up a little speed.

At 73.6 oz RTF, the wingloading is 20 oz/square foot, and a stall speed of 20mph.
At 92oz, it reaches 25 oz per square foot and the stall speed 22-23mph.

Just to have some numbers to work with, I added up all the component weights of one that I'd liked to build with an OS 35AX and those plastic, mechanical retracts by Robart (#611) which I couldn't get a weight on, so I estimated. The total came to 34 ounces of engine, servos, battery, Rx, landing gear, fuel etc. That leaves about 20 oz for the airframe if I want to keep it to 55 oz.

Any of you who have built one recently, is 20 oz for a covered airframe realistic?

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Thanks for the answer badger ,

And yes the strip of Ultracot must help to avoid flutter , in case dont disappear with that , check these points ( pic below ) that would help also . And besides that if you are using just one servo to ailerons you probably have slop somewhere that's another cause to flutter at high speed. For last but not less important in case the flutter still exist after chech all the before mentioned , shortener the aileron on the tips ( 1 1/5" fixed piece ) might help too. ;)

Flutter destroys airplanes lets try to keep it away from our bebys . :D

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Also make sure your servo is strong enough for the high speed passes you are doing. I experienced elevator failure due to a stripped servo.

CAP

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

So what servo would be strong enough?
I'm planning on using HiTec HS-81MG or HS 85MG for the ailerons.
They spec out 36.1 oz/in for the HS-81 and 41.6 oz/in for the HS-85
I've never had a problem with these servos in fairly high speed small airplanes, but probably never had one as fast as the Shrike.
Iwould think either one would be good enough, but I'd like to hear from others as to what they are using.
Thanks
Pete

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

The weight of the plane normally would determine the servo needed. Metal gears should hold up perfectly. I would go with the HS-85.


CAP

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I am using:
Futaba 3001 (1) for the ailerons.
Hitec HS225 for elevator.
Hitec HS55 for throttle.
Mine came out nose heavy, you may want to move the elevator and throttle push rod to the rear. I built a hatch at the very rear for the battery.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I choose to use just a single aileron servo, Futaba S3004. I liked the clean look compared to two servos. If I can't cure the flutter with the strip of Ultracote I added over the control surface gap, I will cut the tips as you suggest.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Good !!

Just let us know if the flutter issue disappear . ;)

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Hey Captain.....how ya been? Glad to see the Shrike club is still going strong. I crashed mine a couple years ago into a limbo pole at full speed. The guys at the field had a good laugh as the pole completely sheered off the right wing at the root. It was an explosion of wood splinters to say the least. Anyway, I have another Shrike that I finally got around to building, it's in the bones right now, can't seem to decide on a color scheme.

I must say, some of these guys put up some nice looking planes since I last posted my pictures. I appreciate everyone keeping this thread going and giving me some ideas as to how I'm gonna cover my newest "go fasty" This will be my third Shrike and without a doubt the fastest one I've ever owned. I'm liking that OS32 engine and that's whats on the nose of the new one.

Thanks for the input Euro regarding the setup on your Shrike, I think I'll take what you shared and start with that.

Speedboy, how you doing on your highly modified speed machine? You'll let us all know how the first flight went, right?

The red Shrike on the right was my 2d one and is what I crashed into the pole, that just killed me. I loved the way that plane flew and I miss it to this day, but when you fly a plane that you like a lot, it sorta becomes a part of you.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Some suggestions on a power plant?

I have an MDS .18 - would any one suggest a pipe to fit? I saw some info on a Mousse can muffler a long while ago, but seem to have lost it somewhere. Any suggestions on how to build one of those?

I also have a K&B 3.5 (which is a .20 CI) with rear exhaust - If I go that route, where would I find a pipe to fit out the back. (BTW this is a pretty high performance K&B engine - not like the old sportsters etc.)

I'm familiar with MACS mufflers, but they don't make a MACS pipe (one piece) to fit anything smaller than a .25.

Thanks
Pete

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I am fine, thank you, and I am glad to see you are still enjoying this thread. ;) I am sorry to about your crash , but that is what makes this hobby interesting. I haven't gotten around to rebuilding my shrike because I am contemplating up scaling my plan to a .40 size. I have a Rossi .60 that has new bearings in it, and performs flawlessly, I want to put the Rossi on the nose. I started getting into gasoline engines and have a old thunderbug with a zenoah g20ei on it, which I will soon install in a spacewalker. Not to mention I have a race season for truggys and buggys about to begin. So I have been busy as usual enjoying RC to the fullest.

Keep us posted with your new build. I think the os.32 will work just fine. Hopefully your build will be the motivation I need to get going on my next shrike. It's good to hear from you again.

CAP

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Guys:

Can one of you that has the Shrike 40 ARF do a quick measurement for me?

I'd like to know how far forward of the wing trailing edge (at the aileron hinge line) the main landing gear wire is located. Also, what's the track width? (Distance left to right between the wheels)

I'm working out the design for a Shrike with retracts. I had a 40 ARF, and it seemed that the landing gear location was just about perfect, so I'd like to duplicate it.

Thanks:)

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Johnc1go..any reason why you cut the nose off your shrike with the 32?? A 32 is the only engine I run in the shrike 10. It will fit. Takes a little work but will fit. My 40 shrike runs an os 61. I also built a slightly modified shrike 10 with a Ross 40 in it. Had to widen the fuse a little to make it fit. Just waiting for the field to dry up. Dave

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I like the adjectives you used ..... highly modified speed machine OOHHHH YEAAAA Beby !!! [8D] hehe .

Its going fine , I'm still fabricating wood pieces , the airplane will be 100% sheeted , on wings , stabilizer and rudders , tonight (later) I'll add some pics on the build thread and you could see how it goes . ;)

And dont doubt it john , I'll let you all know how the maiden was , I just hope the new airfoil can works . :D . But any thing (good or bad ) that happen I'll share it with all you .

Nice Shrike you have there !!! I was wondering the same as europact74 about the nose , do you will complete it ???

Take your time to decide on a color scheme, I'm sure you will do a good gob on it and the good thing you have many colors already . ;)

Please share it with us when you get it finished .

BTW I'm enjoying this thread too . :D

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Pete , I did a quick search and this is what I found .

http://webpages.charter.net/rcfu/ConstGuide/MCM.html

I hope can be useful for you . ;)

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

This is other .....

http://www.spadtothebone.com/SPAD/Mu...sse_can_1.html

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Well Dave and Speedboy, originally, I was going to leave the nose on the plane. I moved the firewall back 3/4" to reduce how much weight I'd have to put in the tail to get to the C.G. You're right, I could have managed to build the nose around the larger engine, but I'm not that good of a builder to make things look nice, so I cut the non-essential decorative stuff off of the nose and went with just a bare engine. I figure that when the thing is going 120mph, no one will be worried much about how the nose looks.;)

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I want to add something real quick here. Perhaps someone else can benefit from what I did. I needed just over 3 oz in the tail to make the C.G. come out right. I wanted the weight as rear-ward as possible and searched for a solution. As I looked around my airplane factory(grungy basement), I discovered some old lead solder that I'd never use for it's real purpose so I decided to use it for ballast. It worked out well in that once I took it off the spool, it weighed in just right.

I took a hammer and flattened the solder out to a width just shy of 5/16". I then coiled up the flat solder and installed it in the tail using scrap wood and 5 minute epoxy. I also rubbed the glue into the coils so as to keep them from uncoiling during high G maneuvers. Here are some pictures to illustrate. Hope this helps someone else.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Excellent - as they say "Necessity is the mother of invention"

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

With an OS 32 and 9x8 prop, I clocked my shrike with a speed gun at 119. That was on a day the engine was not on par. As far as weight go's. I install a flat pack 600 battery all the way to the back Behind the last bulkhead. I cut a hatch behind the bulkhead and install the battery there. Even with the battery that far back I still need to add weight for the 32. It's also a good idea to Gusset the leading edge to the fuse. This is a weak spot. I also insert the leading edge "Into" the fuse then glue. You just cut a hole in the fuse where the leading edge meets the fuse and insert. If you've ever built a 40 shrike this technique is used in the plans.. The vertical stabilizers have a tendance to split due to landings on grass. The solution is to just cut the bottom of the stabilizer at a slight angle up at the back edge. Dave

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Well I received an email from Joe Beshar, who at this time is reading through this thread and basically he has told me Great Planes is trying to decide which lanier planes to keep and which planes not remanufacture. So I am reaching out to all of you SHRIKE FANS to send GREAT PLANES an email on how much you enjoy the SHRIKE and how you would really like to see it being manufactured again asap. I will be sending them the link to this thread which should be proof enough that they can make a decent profit if the SHRIKE is brought back into manufacturing. I wish all of you SHRIKE fans luck on this endeavor.

CAP

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

It would be nice to see Great Planes hardware in the kit as opposed to the inferior junk that Lanier had. And instructions that are included in the kit, rather than having to print them from a website.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Boy, that is some good news. I'm proceeding with building one from plans, but it would sure be nice to have the kits, again. They can keep that ARF, tho, IMHO [:'(]

I emailed them again about bringing it back.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I did what you did w/the same style battery, except that I didn't make a hatch, I just put it in before sheeting behind the former. I like the idea of inserting the L.E. into the fuse, I think Lanier could have done the same for the directions on the .10 size as well. I have another unopened Shrike .10 kit waiting to be built, I will incorporate that modification into the next one. I did use hardwood spars and T.E. on the wing, I hope it will make up a little bit for the weak spot at the L.E/fuse joint.

For prop, I"m thinking MAS 9x6 for testing and trim and then moving to more aggressive pitch for speed. What high RPM are you getting w/your prop? A guy in my club has .10 size shrike w/an OS .32F and he's turning an APC 8x8 and I figure he's getting around 120mph also, but his engine is screaming. Since we can no longer get an OS .32 I think I'll stay w/the nine inch prop to reduce bearing wear.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Thanks for doing the leg work Cap. I'll get an email off to G.P. ASAP in support of all things Shrike!

I just wrote to G.P. and here's a copy of what I said.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

No problem johnc1go. I also really appreciate every ones input to this thread. I almost fainted when I saw the start date to this thread, and to see it still being added to is just powerful. I emailed Great Planes with the link to this thread suggesting how it would be a good idea to start making the .10 and .40 size SHRIKE again. Thanks to all for your assistance in a push to get are SHRIKEs soaring again.


CAP

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

RC Captain and the guys:

I've started a Shrike 40 build thread at:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_84...tm.htm#8498635

I'm using plans that were supplied by another Shrike nut.

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Cool![sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=shades_smile.gif]

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Definitely good news. I have to start searching for a SHRIKE .40 kit. :(


Thanks Mustang

CAP

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

I think someone should really make a CAD version of this plane and make plans freely available to evreyone out there. Great Planes had NO right to remove this bird from planet Earth. [sm=punching.gif]

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Plans are one thing - kits and arf's are something else!
Pete

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

Sorry to say but GP has every right to do what it feels is beneficial to the CO. even if it means pissing us all off. So,we make our own. I knew when Lanier was bought out and all the distributors were running out of kits that the Shrike days were numbered. So I made copies of the plans and instruction book for both the 10 size and 40. I had a friend make cad drawings for all the cut out pieces. Still working on the 40 but I have cad drawings for the 10. With this info anyone with a min of building experience and build from scratch. Once you have a set of templets made no need to buy kits. There was a guy on Ebay selling plans and templets for the shrike 40 last I looked. I too distribute plans with proceeds going to help out our flying club. Dave...

RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
 

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