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O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings

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O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings

Old 10-06-2002, 02:09 AM
  #26  
seanychen
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Default O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings

5% nitro, Detroit elevation (whatever it is)

APC 17x6 - 10000
APC 17x8 - 9300
APC 18x6W - 9000 slow rev up
Master Airscrew Classic 18x6 - 9000 very slow rev up
Power Point 18x6 - 8000
Old 10-07-2002, 02:59 AM
  #27  
DUHAWK49
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Default os 1.60fx

have mine installed on a lanier edge 540t.. my question is to get best results should i use a slimline pitts or bisson pitts and a pump? any ideas
Old 10-07-2002, 04:08 AM
  #28  
skerlock
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Default Bisson

Im going w/ the Bisson + pump (perry)..Im already running the Bisson..I should get 400-500 rpm back after I pull the restricters..

Scott
Old 10-07-2002, 05:17 AM
  #29  
oneplanenut
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Default O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings

Hello rvd

remember me ? I met you at the world scale championships in tilsonburg canada and you invited me back to your field that afternoon to fly with you.

rvd is a good pilot!! he did crazy things that day.. I was laughing hard. He first touched the rudder of his extra on top of his car, then he touched the umbrella over a picnic table , then he was doing rolling circles inverted, rolling to the right but making the circle to the left.. Then he got stung by bees, so he soaked the windsock pole with almost a full gallon of nitro fuel and lit it on fire. It made a HUGE mushroom flame!! The spectators thought he was a crazy guy.

Sorry i have no tach readings yet but I will get some soon.

rvd next time I come to canada I will contact you for flying again, i had fun.

bye
Old 10-07-2002, 09:28 AM
  #30  
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Default O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings

OS 160
5% nitro / 20% oil (CCB Fuel)
APC 16x10
cline regulator
Bison pitts

After a gallon and a half of a very rich ringed engine break in, it would finally begin holding a steady (unwavering) high rpm setting. This is where I begin seeing that the break in process is near complete. The APC is only a break in prop to keep compression loading to a minimum and prop blast up.
I will be flying it with a Top Flite 18x6/10 and Master Scimitar 19x8

Top end with the above was 9100 on an 85 degree humid day.
Outstanding transition.

I don't see a need to use more than 5% nitro in this engine, but when I start using higher nitro, I'll see how it reacts.
The first couple tanks in this engine were zero nitro and it ran well with that too.


Fuelman
Old 10-07-2002, 10:54 PM
  #31  
rvd
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Default O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings

Hey there oneplanenut!! Of course I remember you man, I got in trouble for you doing those stupid rudder touches!! HEHE
Boy did I ever get an earfull from the president of the club.

Anyways listen man.. Anytime you want to come down here let me know and I'll be more than happy to go flying with you, I'll take you back to seductions for some more babes!! You were in your glory man!! in total shock!! hehe

l8r
Old 10-12-2002, 07:45 PM
  #32  
0tter
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Default not as good

I am not getting as good of numbers as many of you...

65deg, Seattle (20' below sea level LOL) 15% cool power, Cline regulator.

APC 18x6W, 8450 RPM
Zinger 18X6 7900 RPM
Zinger pro 16X8 9700 RPM (but limited thrust)

I have had about three gal through it now.
Old 10-12-2002, 08:19 PM
  #33  
flyinmach1-RCU
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Default O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings

I'm with Otter, not getting the performance I expected but waiting for the completion of the breakin to be judgemental.

70 deg. Southwest Idaho
Year old 15% nitro (new fuel on its way!)
Bisson Pitts muffler
Top Flight Power Point 18x8 (APC 18x8 on its way!)

Sorry can't remember exact rpm, around 8400 I think.

H9 Edge 540 weighing aprox. 12lbs. on fish type scale
16.5lbs static thrust using same fish type scale in the grass. I did the same thing by hooking a cord to the tail, over the elevator stab and back to the scale which was tied to a building (my little RC shop).

When flying the plane after about 3/4 gallon run through the engine I have trouble still getting it to idle steady, loads up and transition to full throttle sucks. Verticle in flight was good, but not even unlimitted. So far all 3 flights ended in dead stick landings. Good thing the H9 Edge glides like a feather! Except once, I almost over shot the runway. I need to use an O.S. plug, current plug (Fox I think) has an idler bar. Also fuel is not fresh, could be lots of things. So far I'm not impressed with this engine, but after reading all these posts I'd better try a few things before I say any more....
Old 10-12-2002, 11:25 PM
  #34  
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Default back pressure

I will bet your problem is lack of back pressure indickative of that muffler..you can plug one side.. or do as i did and restrict each pipe to 1/4" dia..that will do the trick...also try a search..you will find more..it is a backpressure issue..

reguards
Scott
Old 10-12-2002, 11:59 PM
  #35  
0tter
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Default O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings

I am using a stock muffler now, but did have to plug one exit of my Bisson pitts, prior to the cline. After the Cline was installed, it didnt matter. I dont know my static thrust, but my 11.9lb Lanier Edge has crappy vertical and poor 3D. Screw it, I'm goin Moki 2.1!
Old 10-13-2002, 12:56 AM
  #36  
krs
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Default Re: And now the "Cline Story"

Originally posted by Aerosplat
I called Bill at Cline again. He elaborated a little more on the remote needle with Cline Regualtor setup. As he instructed, I installed the Cline Regulator BETWEEN the output of the remote needle valve and the input nipple on the carburetor.
Aerosplat, I also have a 160FX, Slimline Pits and a cline regulator. I have yet to install the engine on my Lanier Edge 120 size plane.

I was under the impression that the regulator had to be installed between the tank and needle valve. What you have stated is to install it between the needle valve outlet and the carb inlet. Is this correct? How can the needle valve have any effect? I am not questing Bill at Cline, but I would like to know if any one has the regulator installed the way you do or the other way.

Thanks, Kevin
Old 10-13-2002, 03:38 AM
  #37  
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Default O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings

The regulator goes as close to the carb as possible. Max of 3/4". This is after the needle valve. You will probably notice the needle valve must be closed to about 3/4 to 1 turn due to the pressurized system. The needle valve still regulates the flow, as always. The regulator simply opens when the throttle opens, the valve works the same regardless. Also make sure you place the check valve close to the pressure origin.
Old 10-14-2002, 11:28 PM
  #38  
Aerosplat
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Default Sounds strange, doen't it

krs
Just as you are, I was uncomfortable with placing the regulator between the needle and carb. But at Bill's insistence, I mounted it that way. IT WORKS . Here is a little better explanation of my comments above:
I said the needle became more sensitive and precise after installing the Cline. I tune all my engines with a tachometer. I peak the high speed, then back off about 150 rpm rich for flying. Before the Cline I was running the high speed needle about 2 turns out from closed. With the Cline I have it about 3/4 turns out. Before the Cline, peak was less defined. RPM would vary 50 -100 rpm without touching the needle. I would search for peak within about 4 clicks on the needle. With the Cline, rpm is stable within 50 rpm. Peak search is within two clicks. To back off rich without the Cline I was using 2 - 3 clicks. With the Cline 1 - 2 clicks will do it. Before the Cline, idle rpm would vary 75 - 150 rpm around the 1800 range. With the cline, idle is stable within 50 rpm at 1750.
If anyone wants I can post some pictures of how I mounted the CLINE.
Old 10-14-2002, 11:57 PM
  #39  
ScottyC
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Default Pictures please

Originally posted by Aerosplat
If anyone wants I can post some pictures of how I mounted the CLINE.
If you do have a picture or two, please post them, I'd love to see your setup.

Thanks,
Scott
Old 10-15-2002, 12:54 AM
  #40  
Aerosplat
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Default Pictures

It will be a couple of days before I can got to it, but will try for Wednesday night.
Old 10-15-2002, 05:22 PM
  #41  
Aerosplat
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Default You asked

Raining again today - No outside work. So here are the pictures of my Cline installation. Because everything is aluminum the detail is kind of hard to see, especially with the size limitations here. If you open the pictures in Microsoft Photo editor you can enlarge them. If you want the full size photo, E-Mail me and I will send them to you. They are about 365 KB.

In the pictures look closely and you can see the mounting plate I made from 3/4 inch by 1/2 inch aluminum angle. Cut the 1/2 " side down to fit your motor mount rails and bolt down with the engine bolts. The stock needle bracket is bolted to the side of this plate. Notice the nipples of the Cline and the Remote needle and carburetor are almost touching each other. The regulator hangs freely with the fuel tubing, it is not hard mounted.
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Old 10-15-2002, 05:25 PM
  #42  
Aerosplat
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Default Number two

View of backside showing the fuel tubing and nipple orientation.
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Old 10-15-2002, 05:26 PM
  #43  
Aerosplat
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Default Last one

Another perspective.
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Old 10-20-2002, 06:48 PM
  #44  
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Default Cool Power?

I would not recommend a fuel with no castor oil in it and neither does O.S. Engines.

A friend with the same engine trashed it twice with Cool Power after lean runs scoring the piston and sleeve requiring rebuilds.
If you know you will never have a lean run, go for it.


I have run my engine with Byron fuel only and have had excellent service from it.

I have well over 15 gallons thru mine and I am still getting 9200-9400 rpm with a Jtec dual snuffler muffler w/ hobbico exhaust deflectors, 18X6 APC prop, Byron 18% oil (80% synthetic/20%castor) 15% nitro, peaked. Flown 300 rich.

I have run several props including a Mejzlik 20X6 with good results.

I clean my plane with 1/2 sheet of a paper towel at the end of the day because the exhaust is blown far away from the plane and I leave a great smoke trail at the same time.

Jett is checking the incowl muffler I bought from them, I had problems with it but did get a 200 rpm boost with the 20X6 prop, 8000 rpm!

Brian
KB1DTB
Old 10-21-2002, 04:46 AM
  #45  
krayzc-RCU
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Default Many ????????????????

For all that are flying the OS-160 has the 18 x 6 been the prop of choice?

Has the j-tech muffler been the muffler of choice?

Has 5% nitro been the fuel of choice?

Has the Perry VP-30 been the pump of choice?

How difference is the sound with the brision compared to the j-tech?

I will be firing mine up for the 1st time in Dec and I want to move right on with the info,

thanks in advance.
Old 10-21-2002, 10:37 AM
  #46  
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Default Choice

The 18X6 with the Bisson muffler is loud due to the high rpm.

The 18X6 will give you very good vertical and the speed will not be too fast.

The Jtec Dual Snuffler is very quiet and does not take away from performance. no pump was needed.
The jtec regular muffler is very loud, it does not have the cans on it.

I broke my engine in on 5% and ran it on that for about 8 gallons. In the hot humid weather I would run 15% to get better performance but it really was not necessary.

The bisson is more two strokey,(wing ing ing ing) the Jtec is deeper in tone and so quiet you will hear mostly prop noise.

This engine does very well propped with a Mejzlik 20X6 when used in an aerobatic plane. It would be too slow for a warbird.

The most quiet set up I ran was a Bolly 16.5X10 three blade which brought the rpm down to 7800. I could not hear my plane when others flew thier 40 size planes. I also ran a Bolly 18X10 two blade and a APC 18X8, all around 7800-8400.

It would be great with a tuned cannister muffler to get the last bit of power or a Jett in-cowl muffler.

I am waiting to get my Jett muffler back, I was having problems with mine.

The performance with the Jett was very good but I had a hard time not dead sticking. I never got the needles set right I guess. Others have run it without a problem according to posts here. We'll see how it does when I get it back.

Brian
Old 10-21-2002, 11:11 PM
  #47  
Aerosplat
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Default Don'ty blame the Fuel

I will NOT get into a debate about this, it has been discussed exhaustively elsewhere on RCU. NEVER has a definitive answer been agreed on, and NEVER will be.
However, I just can't resist adding my comments. People are usually quick to blame a brand or type of fuel when they have a lean run which destroys an engine. The fuel did not do the damage, the LEAN RUN did.

As Skypilot_one said
If you know you will never have a lean run, go for it.
. Well, I have been flying for over 23 years, and I have NEVER damaged an engine due to lean run. And I have been using Cool Power 15% and 30% for quite some time now. I have used many different sizes of engines in both 2 Cycle and 4 Cycle.
To prevent lean runs you have to properly tune your engine, and just as importantly, properly set up your fuel system. Always tune your engine for WORST CASE conditions. Usually this means nose straight up with less than 1/4 tank of fuel left in the tank. Peak the engine and back off 150 - 200 rpm rich. Tune the high speed needle each flying day because atmospheric pressure and weather conditions change daily. If the Clunk is more than 8 inches from the carburetor spray-bar, you should seriously consider using a pump (like the Perry) or regulated pressure system (like the Cline). This is particularly true if your setup is capable of producing aggressive vertical acceleration. Contrary to popular belief, the primary purpose of these systems is not to add power to an engine, but is to provide consistent and constant fuel flow from full tank to empty tank.

Can a little CASTOR save an engine which is run on the EDGE of lean? Maybe, but the best insurance is - DON'T EVER GET TO THE EDGE. Learn how to setup your fuel system and tune your engine properly and stay away from the edge.

There are Pros and Cons for both Castor and Synthetic. Which one is BEST can ONLY be answered by YOU for your purposes. But don't blame the fuel for NOT preventing a disaster you perpetrated.

Again, this is just my opinion -- and I'm sticking with it.
Old 11-05-2002, 03:31 AM
  #48  
seanychen
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Default O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings

APC 18x8, 5% Omega fuel, OS #8 plug, RPM 8400 peak, 5 degrees Celsius ambient.
Old 11-12-2002, 05:02 AM
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Default O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings

San Diego, Ca
New engine with 4-20oz tanks thru engine, all on ground.
APC 16-10 prop.
8800-8900.

The engine runs great at full power, and idle's arouns 2200. I do have a problem with the engine transitioning from idle to full throttle. Anybody else have that with their OS 160?
Old 11-12-2002, 07:52 AM
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seanychen
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Default O.S 1.60FX Owners. Post your tach readings

Monkeyhead,

Yes, the OS 1.60 is not exactly spectalur in its throttle response. I've found that using light wood prop will improve its throttle response time.

Pro Zinger 18x8, 5% Omega, 5 degress Celsius: 8700 RPM peak

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