lemonlaw95

hey guys
i just got a mini mgt yesterday, and i starting breaking it in today. i've only used half a tank of fuel and had several problems.
1. the transmission or clutch or something is disengaging when i hit the gas kinda hard on grass. fine on asphalt. the truck just stops and it clearly sounds like something's freely spinning.
2. it stalls constantly (but i know that's the tuning, which i'll fix after i finish breaking it in.)
3. the reverse thing is now jammed in the transmission. rolling it and driving it didn't fix it.

any ideas? because this is completely preventing me from enjoying my truck

sincityshooter

i had the same problem as #1 when mine was new... the forward reverse didnt have enough tension so it was pushing it out enough to be in neutral between forward and reverse.. just play with those little springs

lemonlaw95

and what about the tranny being jammed?
i REALLY don't want to take apart the whole thing to fix that!

hondapride59

My Feedback: (2)

1. your truck might be trying to shift into second without much luck, i havent had the space with grass yet to see it shift and thats usually what seems to happen when it tries to shift

2. stalls from what? and breaking in your engine is pointless if you arent tuning it while your breaking it in, you should be running atleast first 2 tanks at factory break in settings, then the next at 1/8th of turn leaner, then 4th at another 1/8th of a turn...all that while making sure your running at a good tuned temperature...it sounds to me like your not breaking it in correctly if your noticing alot of problems by driving it around and hitting the gas "kinda hard"

3. how is it jammed? and if its jammed are you only riding in reverse to so called break your motor in?

breezerboat

Can you idle a tank of gas out of it? that's what i did when first breakiing in my engines. Idle the tank and pay attention to temperature with a temp gauge, adjust the HSN (the big screw that sticks up surrounded by copper) in to raise temp and out to lower temp. Get the temp about 200 for that idle tank. only do 1/8 turns at a time and wait a minute to see what that does to the temp. That should help you start the tune.

hondapride59

My Feedback: (2)

if you are having trouble idle then adjust the idle screw and if your having rouble with stalling while in lower rpms adjust the lsn screw

breezerboat

truth is, you shouldn't have to touch the LSN much. I believe the factory settings for the MMGT is 2.5 turns out on both HSN and LSN. correct me if I am wrong. My 3.0 didn't come set that way, I had to adjust them before I started break in.

lemonlaw95

i couldn't figure out what the idle screw was... the thing i thought was it prevented the carb from moving when i had it tightened all the way. =/
i adjusted the needles to that too, according to the nitro setup paper thing.
and the reverse is jammed in the forward position (thankfully...hehe)

i guess that should solve my problems, plus what the guy at the hobby store said about it.

breezerboat

the idle screw is kinda under the air filter. if you bend it up you can see it. if you decide to adjust it, take off the air filter and look down in the carb opening. Easy to see what turning the screw does. 1/16 inch openeing when at full brake. BTW don't run the truck with the air filter off.

lemonlaw95

oh, last thing. how can i look at the carb to check the idle speed without removing the air filter? because it's a pain to constantly redo that tie wrap...

breezerboat

take off the zip tie that holds the filter on and it will pull off and on easily.

breezerboat

you can run it a little w/o that zip tie on. kinda like when you are putting around and taking it easy while breaking it in. zip it back on before you drive it like a drunk indian. just be careful it doesn't fall off.

lemonlaw95

LOL

lemonlaw95

i saw a truck mehind the counter at my hobby store that had like a 1/2" aluminum tube going from the carb up to the front of the truck and the air filter was stuck on the end. for cool air intake, obviously.
i should try that, and while i'm at it with the tubing, make an exhaust stack for my truck
anyone have pictures of such a thing?

hondapride59

My Feedback: (2)

last time i saw things like that they were for show purposes not for performance...i mean gladly do whatever you want but i dont see the point and adding a stack could work, i actually went out today to buy a new exhaust deflector and cut a portion of the wheel well out and have it angled up out the wheel well cuz exhaust and grime was getting all over my a arms

u can run ur airfilter without the ziptie, as for tuning the idle you want it to be to the point where it wont move with no gas or break applies but pretty close to creeping

lemonlaw95

this is what my carb looks like when i have the gas on. is it supposed to be over to the side like this? wouldn't that make it slower?
and the idle screw doesn't adjust anything. when it's fully tightened the carb can't rotate, and the idle is exactly the same. what the hell?

breezerboat

it looks like it isn't opened all the way. or is it opening passed the full open position. Dang it looks clean though. mine is dirty as a motha dog.

turn on both the controller and truck. don't touch the controller and turn that screw in both directions. it should change the opening. you may have to turn it a few turns in one direction or the other. I like to put full brake on and adjust the opening to 1/16 inch or so. then start the truck and let it idle about 20 seconds. now apply full brake and if it doesn't die, you have it set correctly. I have mine set to where it almost dies at full brake but doesn't. After you get that idle issue solved you can start to deal with the tuning and break in. keep us a breast to what you are doing.

lemonlaw95

it's rotary, not slide. that's open "all the way", except that the hole is way off-center for some reason. i can push it into place, but it springs right back.
hehe... it's clean because i've put about 3/5 of a tank through it since the truck arrived yesterday. :P

i would do that, but the problem is that the idle screw doesn't adjust the idle opening at all. when it's fully tightened, it just locks the carb and the idle opening is exactly the same. :\
solve that, the carb off-centerness problem, and the transmission getting stuck in neutral when it tries to shift and i'll be all set!

breezerboat

I don't know then. I would take it to your LHS and show them. they might know. try to talk with someone that actually drives these type of cars. I've learned that airplane guys and helicopter guys don't really help that much. Maybe call them and ask if someone working drives that style car. and maybe there are more than one hobby shop in your town. it would be worth a short drive to talk with a person that REALLY knows your type of RC. at least that's what has helped me in the past.

lemonlaw95

i would do that, but earlier today the guy at my hobby shop said that the mechanic is only in on wednesday and thursday, and i need this truck drivable by tomorrow afternoon.
my LHS's RC counter mainly caters to land vehicles anyway. they don't really do much with planes except sell them, so that shouldn't be a problem.

lemonlaw95

any more ideas?
or where i could find out how to fix this thing?

grim3k

"i need this truck drivable by tomorrow afternoon."

Never put a timetable on fixing stuff in RC, that's the best way to make sure it never gets done

twomanytoys

You need to adjust the linkage on the carb . Turn on your remote and truck. Zero out everything on the remote. Then when you go wide open you have to remove the linkage and adjust it till its open all the way. Then when you let off the throttle you adjust the idle screw. You should have a 1mm opening when at idle. No adjustments should be done with remote untill all your linkages are set. You may have to even loosen the carb and turn it to get more opening but try the linkage first. Once all linkages are set you can make final EPA adjustments with the remote. Any time you get a new truck or car you have to set all your linkages prior to starting and running.