Head speed & pitching up
#1
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Been flying for a while (raptor 50) with 1550 and 1750 head speeds no problem. Just tested her on 1850 and I'm finding the heli tends to pitch up or down a bit in FFF
Any suggestions as to why or how to prevent?
Stock components.
Cheers
Glen
Any suggestions as to why or how to prevent?
Stock components.
Cheers
Glen
#2
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Balance the heli using the flybar. Lift the heli by flybar using a finger on each side, it will be pitchy if slightly tail heavy or even dead on CG. Increase your expo on cyclic helps too. Presumably you are using stock black paddles? can also try V paddles or K&S if you are FFF, not too many 3D pilots do a lot of FFF in circuits etc... mainly for F3C/FAI config.
#3
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My R50 was pitchy with KSJ 3D paddles.
Went to TT White paddles and it is better.
May be a bit less "flippy" but more stable to just play.
Also agree on needing just a touch of forward weight to shift balance slightly ahead of mast.
With KSJ paddles and dead on the mast balance it was fantastic for stationary tumbles, but a pain to keep from ballooning on FFF.
Now I have to work a bit harder to keep from moving in tumbles, but handles FFF and wind better.
I assume as my skill levels increase I may want to go back to a more dedicated 3D setup, but this was better for now
Went to TT White paddles and it is better.
May be a bit less "flippy" but more stable to just play.
Also agree on needing just a touch of forward weight to shift balance slightly ahead of mast.
With KSJ paddles and dead on the mast balance it was fantastic for stationary tumbles, but a pain to keep from ballooning on FFF.
Now I have to work a bit harder to keep from moving in tumbles, but handles FFF and wind better.
I assume as my skill levels increase I may want to go back to a more dedicated 3D setup, but this was better for now
#5
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Sorry I did mean the carbon K&S paddles NOT the plastic 3D ones with the sharp leading edge. Indeed the plasic ones are quite pitchy!
#6

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I have had people gripe about the shrek (tt greens) and other paddles being "pitchy" but when they see or fly my Raptor they note how it doesnt do that. I've fixed several just by using paddle gauges to align the paddles perfectly with the fly bar carrier. It takes some time, tighten a bit, check alingment, tighten, check again but the results are worth the time spent.
#8

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6 degrees, maybe 7 of cyclic. The pitch on the main blades is what matters. Set the pitch to zero degrees (in a 3d curve this should be right at mid stick). Put the blades out fore and aft. Stick a pitch gauge on the blade and verify 0 degrees then give full right or left cyclic and hold it there and measure the pitch of the blade. If its more than 6 or 7 at the most degrees, lower the atv's equally till you get it there. Make sure the swash plate is level when you do this, most of the time they are going to be trimmed a bit to the right to compensate for translating tendency from the tail rotor pushing sideways.
Turn the blades to they are straight out left and right and do the same thing to the elevator. Dont worry about how many degrees the paddles themselves deflect.
Turn the blades to they are straight out left and right and do the same thing to the elevator. Dont worry about how many degrees the paddles themselves deflect.
#9
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Thanks.
This is the paddle I'm running. It performs flips and rolls better than the stock. No idea what it is though.
Center of ballance is just infront of shaft with the tank empty.
This is the paddle I'm running. It performs flips and rolls better than the stock. No idea what it is though.
Center of ballance is just infront of shaft with the tank empty.
#11
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Yup, those are the ones.
Had the yellows on my R50 in the back hole. Could not keep the nose down in FFF.
Now have same paddles (yellow KSJ) moved to my old Baron 30 S, and it handles great! :-)
Glad someone mentioned paddle alighnment. They need to be dead in alignment with each other, and also exactly aligned to the flybar arms (the part that rotates the flybar).
If pitched down, you get nose pitchy problems.
I followed Raptor Technique to the letter when I put white paddle on my 50 and it is way better than it was.
Now going to try the shrek greenies on my second 50
Had the yellows on my R50 in the back hole. Could not keep the nose down in FFF.
Now have same paddles (yellow KSJ) moved to my old Baron 30 S, and it handles great! :-)
Glad someone mentioned paddle alighnment. They need to be dead in alignment with each other, and also exactly aligned to the flybar arms (the part that rotates the flybar).
If pitched down, you get nose pitchy problems.
I followed Raptor Technique to the letter when I put white paddle on my 50 and it is way better than it was.
Now going to try the shrek greenies on my second 50
#12
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Don't know if I dare to put the flybar in the back hole. I'm only running a stock V2 head on a 50. Do you think it would handle it?
#13
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Put the green TT ones on. Much better all round! the inner hole on the KJS ones will have really fast cyclic but a LOT less stable!