Charlie

I run into my first problem. I don't think it is a big one, but never the less, it's not right. The washout assembly isn't right, it has a lot more room on one side then it does on the other. The linkage ball and the pin are very close on one side but they aren't hitting so I can't see it being a problem. I'm sure I could send it back for an exchange but that would be a pain in the butt, or I could go with a metal one (maybe later), but I think I will try it and see what happens. I guess that's the price you pay when you have plastic parts [X(].

I know there isn't a lot of info out right now on the Titan, but I'm wondering if anyone else had this problem?

I will keep you informed on the rest of the build.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Are you sure you don't have a washer on one side and not the other or used the wrong sleeve inside the bearing?

carlyle

it kinda looks like the bolt is mis aligned charlie... Is it not the same washout assembly as any other raptor?

Charlie

No, it all come in it's own little bag. Their are no washers (the book doesn't show washers either) and their was only two sleeves in the bag.

I come across another problem, the book calls for the Aileron lever ball links that go up to the swash plate to be 58mm, 58mm is way to long, it should be 53mm. If you put them at 58mm the Aileron levers are pointing down, they won't set straight (90 degrees).

I found two problems already and I'm just getting started . I'm sure things can only get better .

Charlie

It is in there straight (I did think of that). I think the part that slides down over the main shaft has a little warp in it, that's the way it looks if you look real close at it (to me anyway). I think I will put a metal one on it, then I won't have to worry about it .

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

You dont want the aileron bell cranks to be 90 degrees, follow the instructions on this, trust me or you will get differential throw and or binding.

Charlie

Sorry, I guess I should have explained it a little better. I'm talking 90 to the ball link.

One other problem I found, the decals say Titanium, not Titan. I'll just cut the (ium) off Titanium. They must have already had the decals printed when they decided to change the name.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Yea I know what you're talking about, the lengths are right. The aileron pushrods are offset at an angle too. Simplified its 2 wrongs make a right, trust me on this. I'll take a picture of mine when I get home if I remember.

Charlie

I'm confused, what do mean, they a suppose to point down a little. If that's what you mean, I'm very confused. I've built and flown 5 Raptors and I've always put them at 90 degrees and I've never had any binding. I've always made sure the ball on the end of the Aileron lever was center to the screw that holds the Elevator arm on which makes it 90 degree at half stick with the swash plate level, and my helis have always flown great. I think I better do some research on this or make a few phone calls.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

You can talk to Mike Prewitt but yes they are supposed to point down a bit.

carlyle

I don't understand either.

Why don't they make the leavers with a 90 degree, rather than the 60ish degree that there using now?

Charlie

I've talked to two excellent pilots, one flies a 50 SE and the other flies 90 SE, one is a sponsored pilot by Thunder Tiger, a heavy 3D piolt (Colin Bell) and they both tell me that I'm doing it right. The Aileron lever should be 90 degrees to the ball link. They told me that they have never had a problem with binding and like I said, I've never had a problem with binding either on all the Raptors I've built.


Barracudahockey if you get a chance can you post a picture of your's?

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

I did a little research. I guess what it comes down to is it probably wont hurt anything but this is what I found out.

The slightly downward angle of the aileron bell crank offsets the slight angle from the bell crank to the servo. This in turn makes sure the whole push pull thing moves evenly and without stressing one side or the other of the linkage at either extreme.

If it works for them then don't worry about it. I thought the same thing when I built my first Raptor, I did the research and talked to a big name pilot about it as well as Raptor Techniques Mike Prewitt and even emailed Ray Hostettler. They all said the same thing, the offset is designed into the system, as Rays book mentioned, its a case of 2 wrongs making a right.

raptor_dude

Hi There,

The offset is built into the bell cranks (this is why they're not exactly 90 degrees). I've always set my bell cranks to 90 deg as Charlie has explained and none of my machines bind at full stick travel. I however don't use full swash travel (don't bind the swashplate in the corners).

Colin

P-40LUVR

How many hours does it take to build the Raptor 50 titan?

Charlie

I have about 15 hours into building mine (roughly).

Charlie

Well it's done. I didn't find to much else wrong, just a couple of final notes. If you put the tail servo up front (like I did) you can't use the push/pull system for the collective. The decals are a real pain in the butt to try and get lined up right, they don't fit right, so all you can do is try to make it look the best you can.

Mr Lee

Hey Charlie! Looks good!

What motor do you have in there?

Have you built and flown a R50V2? If so how do you rate the titan against it?

Charlie

I had a 50 V2 and I liked it a lot. I haven't had a chance to try the Titan out yet, I'm hoping to break it in this coming weekend. I put the OS Hyper 50 motor in it.

raptor_dude

Just to clear something up. The roll belcrank balls need to align with the screws in the collective cradle holding the pivot point of the fore/aft mechanism, with a level swashplate. The geometric offset of the belcranks is for a similar reasoning as off setting roll servo attachment points on the Shuttle or Hawks. By building in the correction to the roll belcranks removes builder error associated with roll servo offset. The TT roll belcranks are not 90 degree units. Align as above with neutral roll at the servo, custom fit the equal length upper rods to the swashplate horns. You do not want to fight the swashplate height determined by the fixed length fore/aft A links. Remember the rod lengths to the roll servo from the belcranks may be different as all servos are not created equal with respect to the servo output shaft location.

Sorry to use Colin's user name but I have none right now. BTW Charlie, very nice build!

Stephen

Charlie

Thanks for your help Stephen, I appreciate it. It's to bad we got rained out and we didn't get a chance to try it out, it's suppose to be a nice day tomorrow so I think it's going to be a good day to break it in.

Mr Lee

Hey Charlie!

Any comments on how it goes yet?

Charlie

I had it out and put a three tanks of fuel through it the other day, I think it's going to be a pretty good heli (feels good anyway). It's a little to early to really tell yet but I think it will be all right. I didn't see a whole lot of difference then my V2 other then the motor. I like that motor, seem to have all kinds of power and it's not even broke in yet. I can definitely see the difference in fuel, the Hyper likes it's fuel compared to my old TT50, but I'm running the hyper pretty rich right now, it should be a little better once I lean it out a little.

carlyle

I get around 9 minutes with my Hyper and coolpower 30%. I find that you gotta keep a close eye on your fuel, it seems to lick it up really quick.

My new 90 is even worse. I get around 8 minutes with it. But, I seem to do about 5 - 10 autos per flight, so my actual flight times last a big longer.

heraldoboldrin

Charlie

Can you send me close pictures from your new titan without canopy...i have an old V1 and i am thinking to change it...so i will compare the diference....

thanks..

Heraldo