mxracerx43

Hello all I am running a regulated 1950 mah 6 volt pack. I picked it up and the regulator for a lot less than a Duralite setup. I think 6.0 volt is the way to go that way if a cell fails you will not lose your gyro or reciever functions. Alot of other members use the Duralite setup but I just did not want to spend the extra $$$ I got my setup, 2 1950 nimh's and a regulator for less than a $100.00 I get great flight times and can have 1 pack charging if I want continuos flying. I am not saying don't go Duralite but if you are just starting you can save some $$ in this area and still have a very good setup. I bought my setup from NOBS batterys, they advertise here on RCU. Lastly NOBS sells the second pack at I think a %25 discount when you buy two.

[]TEX[]

Can't the Rx run on a 6V battery without a regulator?

mxracerx43

Yes the receiver will work on 6V. I am not sure what gyro you are using but the popular Futaba 401/9254 combo will not last long using 6 volts. 6volts will also increase you servo tourque and decrease transit time but some servos can not handle 6V. I think this is more of a problem with digital servos.

Big feet

Hi,
I think (but not totally sure) that Futuba can handle 6v, while JR need to run at 4.8v. That is from a far and distant memory so if anyone has more up to date info, please correct me.

No, you want to set the throttle end points around 70-80. The servo will get to the end point quicker that the collective servo which you set to 110-120 end points. This way the throttle is always ahead of the pitch demand and so keeps the RPM from slowing down as much. What I think BH is saying is that he was unable to run these settings with the PP system, so he elected to go with the single pushrod system. I am using PP on my Titan and have been able to set mine up like this and the throttle does stay ahead of the pitch servo.

I have not done anything to prevent fuel getting into my tail servo. If anyone has a method of sealing it please post it.


Cheers

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

The higher end points are a little slower but as BF said it allows the throttle to stay ahead of the collective. You could also use a faster servo.

The main reason I did away with the push pull was to put the rudder servo in the nose.

Any modern recievers will run on 6v as will the gyros. The tail servos have a VERY narrow dead band. The higher you push the voltage the narrower the dead band so they can chatter themselves to death at higher voltages, though they are known to work ok at 6v regulated, I just prefer to regulate to 5.1 or 5.3, I'm not a good enough pilot to need that extra .7v and my servos last longer.

Big feet

Thanks for the info BH. I suspected things would have change since I heard that. I never really left the hobbie but I was ill for a few years and didn't keep as current as I would have liked to.

PutU2Sleep

My Feedback: (3)

So explain how you regulate you voltage....I'm assuming you need a regulator of some sort i.e. how to you set it up?

Big feet

Yup, you use a 6v battery and connect it to a 5.1v regulator. The good bit is that if you loose a cell in you battery the voltage drops to 4.8v. Your electronics will still run at 4.8v and so you don't make a big hole in the ground with your pride and joy.
Also, some regulators have a fail to on switch so again if you are unlucky and have a switch failure you still land ok, and when the heli won't switch off you realise you have a problem.
The regulator has a regulated (5.1v) and unregulated (6v) lead. If you put a voltspy or simular on the 6v lea(set to monitor 6v) then you can immediatly spot a dead cell as the red LEDs come on, or you just ran down your battery if you have flown a lot.
I don't have one on my Titan but I'm gonna fit one.

PutU2Sleep

My Feedback: (3)

Seems simple enough...and a good idea...thanks for the info.

Test005

Hello
I have a Raptor Titan.
Just got it and have hovered 1.5 gallons hoping ot get into forward flight soon
Mine is bought second hand and blinged with metal head, carbon fibre blades and tail.

OS 50 Hyper
Futaba Gy401
Futaba S3010 servos
Futaba 1500mah Ni-Cd
Futaba R137F RX

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Here's mine, approaching touchdown for an auto.

Test005

Finishing my second gallon I went to forward flight today.
This was a big step mentally... I'm about to get hooked on heli's.

PutU2Sleep

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Hockey,

That's a pretty picture!!

I think everyone has "Shrek" paddles but me.

[]TEX[]

LOL, I don't either.

Barracuda, very crisp picture. I am uber exited to get this heli flying, but not much build time. I am at the point where you assemble the tail.

I will purchase a 5.1 regulator, like helimedic said...sounds easy enough.

Test005

Personally I hate the colour on the paddles but they were there when I bought the helicopter, so I just fly with them.

[]TEX[]

I set your picture as my destop, thanks BH.

USMC2111

Hey Test005, I just noticed your TX case in the picture. That looks like a nice setup, with the jacks and all. I guess there is a battery in there that you use to power a field charger that is built in to the case, right??? Where did you find that, if you dont mind me asking?

[]TEX[]

I think it's a Futaba case, but I like it too whatever it is.

75% complete...

Test005

Glad you like it
The case is not a Futaba product or anything fancy.
It's a toolbox bought in some local hardware store that I fitted a Power Panel to.

It's a very good setup for helicopter flying though, it holds Transmitter, starter, field charger, 12v/12AH gel cell, tools and a box of spare parts.
At the field I place my transmitter ontop of it and have the starter and glow igniter attached to the power panel.... Works very well and I'd recommend it.
When I go fly I grab three things: 1. Raptor 2.The case 3.Gallon of fuel = very easy to carry at once.


ps. The field charger can be plugged in the 12V outlet where the starter is.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Thanks. I invested in a 35mm DSLR Sony when I started doing reviews.

Here's some more http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/gallery/16747/

and
http://www.gatewayrc.org/clinic.htm

GravityWorks

Here is my raptor 50 titan, in all its E POWERED glory

GravityWorks

ok I just spooled up this thing for the first time, wow what a difference size makes. However I am a noob and I was wondering if you guys could tell me exatcly how you take off? How does the heli act just before lift off? if the heli has a tendency to try and tip over is that normal just before take off or is an adjustment needed? should I try and adjust the heli so it lifts off the ground level? or should I bite the bullet, take off to a few feet and then see how the heli acts? please help. thanks you.

[]TEX[]

All helis have a tendancy to lean left on take off, it is a learned process. When lifting off apply a little right aileron.

GravityWorks

everything is level but it has a tendancy to lean right and back during takeoff. then it drifts left once off the ground but I dont know if its my stick inputs that are doing it. to counter the right leaning.

[]TEX[]

Chech to make sure your swash plate is level mechanically front to back and side to side before you use the trim tabs.Center all your trims and check it. Rudder trim is the exception.