heliraptorcbm

if the shank is to long and you run out of thread just buy a few washers to make up the distance it should be ok just check for balance it. is better to have the thread out side of the part you are fasting . it is the shank that has the strength in shear for that particular use.

[]TEX[]

I think he meant the shank on the jesus bolt for the head. The one I built did not have enough thread so the bolt stopped short. One side of the head block is threaded for the bolt and then a lock nut goes on that.

Unless you tap drill the head the nut does not have enough to grab.

heliraptorcbm

yes it dose make a big difference it is the shank that takes the shear loads the all thread bolt will give way under shearing loads unless specifically designed for both not only that but if it is a cut thread and not a rolled thread then the danger of failure is Even grater seined a&p mechanic it's not call a jesus bolt for nothing

skytrooper2

Is there any bulid videos like the finless one's for the 90?

[]TEX[]

No

skytrooper2

Is there any better informative instructions like the t-rex 600 for instance or someone with a step by step build thread, i don't want to mess things up let alone when it comes to the e conversion,
seems no one is willing to build the heli for me for a reasonable labour amount or do the conversion.

Well i'm in South Africa.

[]TEX[]

I just built one three weeks ago, sorry you live so far I would build it for you no charge. I enjoy building them and setting them up.

Unfortunately there aren't any step by step build threads. The 90 is not easy to build and the manual can be iffy at times.

You can PM me if you would like to discuss this further. Maybe we can work something out.

Here's the one I built and set up for a friend. He loves it!

skytrooper2

Wow, an offer like that does not pass one's door often, Thank you very much. Distance is a problem.. It's times like these that i wish i lived in the states

[]TEX[]

Well, if things change you know how to reach me.

DIJ

Well I thought exactly the same way as you, so I contacted TT about the wrong Jesus bolt being supplied with the 90 3D. They admitted there was a problem with the kit and sent me a replacement bolt, which was just a plain threaded one instead of the usual shanked one. The bolt was bagged up with a manual addendum saying not to use the supplied bolt in the kit, so presumably this part is being shipped with all new kits.

skytrooper2

Your 90 looks awesome. i don't like a nice kit like the 90 3d just catching dust which it is doing now, will try my best this side to get help otherwise i will let you know Thank you Tex. [8D]

DIJ, strange, i haven't has a look at my bolt, hope i have the correct one.

[]TEX[]

Sure thing

Big feet

Hey Rappy,
Is the 90 flying again?
I read the post about the cause of the crash, but was hopping to hear you got her back in the air.

I've been playing with turbines all summer and not on the helis threads much, shame on me.
Don't fear though guys, the Titan has had her share of air time too.

skytrooper2

Hi, i'm halfway through building and converting a R 90 3d to E.

Does one really need to grind all the pins in the tail gearbox for i've heard people said the pins coming loose.

1st, this is an electric machine so there will be very little 'engine' vibration compared to a 90 glow engine. i'm not going to wind and grind the machine either just basically scale flying.

And if something really needs to be done, what other alternatives are there?

Superglue? Can one not just add threadlock onto the grub screw and pins, i've heard people talk about using heatshrink, how that get's applied and where i don't know.

Is it really neccesary do anything about it? What are my options. does it need to be done on the tail gearbox and frame gearbox assemblies?

skytrooper2

Good day

I finished my frame on the 90, and after i loctite all of the bolts i discover that the frame is not 100% square, off by 2 mm or so, i suspect the fanshroud (two front legs) to be the problem for the frame sides ar all carbon fibre so they are presice

Is this a problem or am i the only one that has this problem.

How can i correct this?

DIJ

I seem to remember having a similar issue and having elongate a couple of holes slightly, but it was while ago so can't remember exactly.

As for the tail pins, I did a lot of research and ended up using heatshrink over my Raptor titan pin, and then drilling a small instection hole in the tail casing, and on the 90 I just drilled the hole. I then visually check all the pins after each flighing session, and have had no problems yet.

Hope that helps

skytrooper2

Thanks DIJ, These are carbon frames and they are machine precisely, it seems to me that the plastic fancasing may be a bit off? I cannot see myself reaming the carbon frame holes or any holes it should be right off the bat??

Is there anyone else having this problem, just to try and put in in a different way:

All the holes on the frame is alligned perfectly,the bolts go in just fine. maybe i'm not describing it correctly:

When i place the heli (main frame assembly without baseplate or skids
on a 100% level table, the front right of where the Fancasing "leg" touches the table is in the air by 2mm or so, the left "leg" as well as the 2 rear carbon frame "legs" touches the ground evenly together. The frames look aligned, it's as if the plastic casing "leg" is minimally warped to cause the slight gap

Hope this describes better.

skytrooper2

All is 100% square now, thanks anyway

DIJ

Thats good to hear, and good luck with the build

skytrooper2

Thank you DIJ, this is going to be my special occasion machine ! Can't wait till it's done.

skytrooper2

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DIJ

I wouldn't have thought it will make much difference for that amount. I found they were a bugger to glue in the right postion too.

skytrooper2

Yes, not to mention my almost broken fingers to get them into the boom!

To loosen and move them would leave a blob of extra dry CA on the carbon shaft, so i'm going to leave it i suppose.

Thanks DIJ