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Old 03-06-2008, 10:13 AM
  #51  
Rafael23cc
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project


ORIGINAL: DIJ
At least this is restoring the faith I had lost in TT.
Thunder Tiger did not take the market by storm more than 10 years ago by doing things the wrong way. I admit that they have gone to sleep on their success by not releasing new degins (not revised versions of old designs). But overall I am very happy with my HyperRaptor 50 V2 and my Raptor 90 3D* (Converted 60).

Rafael
Old 03-06-2008, 11:25 AM
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RappyPilot
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

I have found a bolt, so my rotor head is nice and snug now :-)

Well I can only say good things about Thunder Tiger Helicopters. I have invested in two of them, and my 3rd one wil also be a Raptor.
Old 03-06-2008, 02:02 PM
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badazzbusa
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

Good deal. I love the Raptors also, how can you not, fairly simple design, easy to work on and parts are cheap and you can find them everywhere. Align is another good one for support after the sale and a quality product.
Old 03-07-2008, 12:46 AM
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

Align helicopters are also becoming popular at my field. Specially for the 3D guys. It weighs about 1KG less than a Raptor so they seem to have great power/weight ratio.

BUt at the end of the day I am still a staunch Raptor fan :-)

Well, my Raptor is almost complete. Hoping to get my engine, gyro and servo's delivered today.
Old 03-07-2008, 09:17 AM
  #55  
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

I have found a bolt, so my rotor head is nice and snug now
Rappy, Did you find one that has the plain (shank) of the correct length, or are you using a threaded bolt?

My replacement arrived today, but it's the same as the original part so no joy there[&o]
Old 03-08-2008, 02:30 AM
  #56  
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

Hello

Well, I got a 25mm fully threaded black machine bolt from a hobby shop. It works perfectly, Fits nice and snug. I don't think wether it has a shank or is threaded makes a difference. I would not try a 20 mm bolt because then you don't have much room for the locknut.

My Raptor 50 also has a fully threaded bolt, obviously a smaller one and all seems fine.

Good luck in finding your bolt.
Old 03-08-2008, 02:48 AM
  #57  
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

Thanks for the info Rappy, although i'm not sure that using a fully threaded bolt is the best way to go. I believe the bolt is shanked for a reason, i.e. it will be a better fit so reducing any rotor head play. Anyone have any thoughts on this, as I must admit I am also tempted to go down this route as I cant get the right bolt yet?
Old 03-08-2008, 09:21 AM
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

If that was all I had, I'd use it in a minute. I think once you tighten it down, it doesn't matter if it's threaded or not.
Old 03-10-2008, 12:45 AM
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

I agree. I asked a bunch of guys with heli's at the field this weekend, and some have shanked bolts, others have threaded bolts and some can't even remember he he. So I guess it does not really matter. As long at it's nice and tight.

Well. My 90 is 95% complete. Just need to install the engine, gyro and raddio gear and I am ready to rock and roll. Oh yes, still carefully applying the decals to the canopy.
Old 03-10-2008, 03:26 AM
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

Hey

Found a mistake in the Raptor 90 3D manual. Naughty naughty TT.

On page 37 they say that you have to use a 30mm link rod to make a 77.5 mm collective pushrod ?!?! Does not quite add up ... (maybe if you use a direct link from the servo to the pitch control frame.

Anyway, after making the link rod, hooking it up to my pushpull horn and the pitch control frame saw that it is in fact much shorter. I did not quite measure the final length though. I adjusted the length so that I get maximum throws and 0 degrees horn connecting to the pitch lever fixed plate is level ...
Old 03-11-2008, 08:05 AM
  #61  
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

P.S In my Raptor 50 manual, you had the option to either connect the servo to the pitch frame via a push pull setup using an aditional push-pull lever or the instructions showed how to connect the serveo directly to the pitch frame.

Can you also have a direct link on a 90 as you can on a 50 or would it be better to use the push-pull system?
Old 03-11-2008, 08:16 AM
  #62  
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

I use direct link on my Titan, but opted for push pull on the 90, due to the additional forces involved. I believe you can use either though.
Old 03-11-2008, 08:19 AM
  #63  
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

I am in two minds about this. I see your point, buit also, using the pish-pull system is just something else that can fail on the heli.
Old 03-11-2008, 08:27 AM
  #64  
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

Well I certainly have not had any problems with my 50 and single link, so I would also use it on the 90 if I felt inclined to.
Old 03-12-2008, 01:57 AM
  #65  
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

Well. I have decided to rather use the push pull system. Rather safe than sorry.
Old 03-13-2008, 01:14 AM
  #66  
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

Hi

Just a quick rewind on the bolts issue.

Thanks for the info Rappy, although i'm not sure that using a fully threaded bolt is the best way to go. I believe the bolt is shanked for a reason, i.e. it will be a better fit so reducing any rotor head play. Anyone have any thoughts on this, as I must admit I am also tempted to go down this route as I cant get the right bolt yet?
I mailed TT and this is what I got back from them ...

Dear Marcel,

Thanks for contacting us. Due to the threads of the bolt (BK0617) are a bit not enough, a little more force is necessary to tighten up the bolt. It still can be used with the nut. However, we do not think it normal and the way it should be. As a result, we will actively supply an additional fully threaded bolt with an instruction diagram to our distributors and that will take around one week from now on to have the bolts ready in our factory. Please feel free to contact B&B IMPORTERS & DISTRIBUTORS in South Africa for service then. Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.

Best regards,

Customer Service
Thunder Tiger Corp.
Old 03-13-2008, 01:16 AM
  #67  
RappyPilot
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

And here a picture of my ALMOST complete Raptor 90 (And my Raptor 50)

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Old 03-13-2008, 01:25 AM
  #68  
DIJ
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

Thanks for contacting us. Due to the threads of the bolt (BK0617) are a bit not enough, a little more force is necessary to tighten up the bolt.
Not a chance, believe me , I tried!! Forcing 2.5mm long of shank through threaded hole just does not work.

Did you have any trouble installing the bearings down the inside of the boom, as I found the PolyZap glue I used set too quickly when I did mine? is there an easier way?

Looks like your almost there with the build Rappy
Old 03-13-2008, 01:37 AM
  #69  
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

Hi

Well, I am using a M4x25 fully threaded bolt, with the M4 locknut. May she hold ...

Well, what I did was used this CA to glue the bearings on the shaft as per the manual. Making sure I get no glue in the bearings themselves :-) Waited for it to set and then very carfully slid the torque tube into the boom. It's a very tight fit and I don't think it will come loose. I also tried using PolyZap glue, had the same problem and it messy so ended up not using it at all.
Old 03-13-2008, 02:13 AM
  #70  
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

It certainly was a pain in the rear, made worse by the fact you have to end up with the shaft in the right position, which the glue makes it really hard to do. I think next time I would adopt your approach. As you say, they are indeed a tight fit.
Old 03-13-2008, 02:29 AM
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

I realise this might be somewhat premature, but do you know what needle settings on your os91 you are going to start out with? I have a simalar set-up and would appreciate any info you have on this. I know the needle settings are affected by muffler and fuel etc but just looking for a starting point.
Old 03-13-2008, 02:52 AM
  #72  
RappyPilot
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

Well.

The engine has 3 needles. A low, mid and high speed needle. Never set one of those up yet. OS Engines just work out the box :-) So I hope this one is the same.

I normally leave the needles at factory settings, start her up, get a nice idle going, hover the heli for a few tanks. I have one of those infra red surface temerature probes so I keep monitoring the crank case and head temperature to make sure it runs cool and does not overheat during the break in period. And after a few tanks of fuel, start leaning the low end needle out a bit so that I have a reliable idle. And then once she is run in, get a proper high end needle setting and then that is that.

I can imagine having 3 needles to worry about might make things complicated. But I try not to change things if I don't need to.
Old 03-13-2008, 03:03 AM
  #73  
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

Thanks for that Rappy, I don't have the IR probe so I guess the old finger test will have to do. I 'm pretty sure you will have your 90 up before mine, so I would greatly appreciate it if you could let me know what settings you actually end up with when you get it in the air (before and after run-in).
Old 03-13-2008, 03:14 AM
  #74  
RappyPilot
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

The finger test he he he. No thanks. I like my fingers ... I am quite fussy about the correct engine temperature, specially on a heli. I have seen a heli crash because a guy ran the engine too lean and it overheated ...

I am getting my engine, muffler, gyro and servo's this weekend.

Mind you, I live in Johannesburg, South AFrica. We are about 4000 feet above sea level, I am sure that will affect things. So I will hopefully take her out for her maiden flight the weekend after this one. I will certainly keep you posted on what settings I used on my engine.
Old 03-13-2008, 09:04 AM
  #75  
Rafael23cc
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Default RE: Raptor 90 3D Project

ORIGINAL: RappyPilot
...I normally leave the needles at factory settings, start her up, get a nice idle going, ....
Do please check that the needle settings are the correct settings according to the book. I have a friend. That lost a brand new OS 90 because he trusted the "factory" settings. The main needle was closed all the way. Somehow the engine fired up and burned itself up in less than 3 minutes.

Rafael


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