Progressing to 3D on an R30 v2
 

Hello everyone,

I'm moving on to more advanced aerobatics and want to try out some 3D maneuvres on my R30v2. Is there any particular upgrades that would make the heli more suitable for 3D flight and more nimble in the air e.g. 3D paddles, inline flybar arm, alloy swashplate?

Cheers for help.
sam

RE: Progressing to 3D on an R30 v2
 

The Raptor 30 is a good 3D heli right out of the box, you don't need any upgrades. The biggest thing to remember when getting into 3D flying with a 30 size heli is to have a high head speed (1950) and good collective management, you don't want to bog the motor down. There is not a lot of room for error with a 30 size helis, they just don't have the power (power to weight ratio).

RE: Progressing to 3D on an R30 v2
 

White paddles (instead of stock black) and move the linkage balls to outer hole on washout arm.
Collective pitch curve of +/- 9 degrees and about 6.5 or 7 degrees cycolic pitch
Other than that, they are ready to go.
As Charlie says, you need solid collective management and don't let the head speed get too low.

RE: Progressing to 3D on an R30 v2
 

Try the green paddles with the arms in their stock locations. Hard (red) dampeners and pv0499 one piece tail hub and a metal washout base. Those are the most important upgrades.

RE: Progressing to 3D on an R30 v2
 

When you say white or green paddles...Which manufacturer are you refering to?

Are the dampeners you are referring to the replacement for TT's Flap Damper OEM part BK0582? What improvements will this make?

I've already got the alloy washout base but how about the relevance of the Swashplate? I've heard that the Quick UK one makes a vast difference especially with stability in the hover.
Also, I've seen many of these 3D helis with an Inline Flybar arm...what difference does this actually make?

Sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure I know what difference the upgrades will make

Thanks guys

RE: Progressing to 3D on an R30 v2
 

The flap dampener in red is harder. This will cause two things. One, and its main benefit is it won't let the spindle flex as far and helps prevent boom strikes during hard 3d and autos. The second is it can give it a bit of a nod in the hover and makes the cyclic response a bit crisper so you may need a little expo.

The flybar carrier is no big deal, I've flown and built them both ways and it really doesn't make a difference.

The swash plate from QUK is expensive, it will have less slop and probably a bit more stability than a worn stock one so that choice is yours if you think its worth the money.

The paddles are Thunder Tiger Black= heaviest, most stable and least responsive, White = lighter than black, more responsive but fairly stable, Green = lightest, quick crisp cyclic response but if aligned poorly causes the nose to tuck in fast forward flight, mine doesnt tuck but I set the paddles up with gauges.

RE: Progressing to 3D on an R30 v2
 

What is an inline flybar arm. I have just rebuilt my heli and wondered how these arms should be set up.

RE: Progressing to 3D on an R30 v2
 

When you say in line flybar arm are you taking about this? Just wondering, If this is what your talking about, I've never heard it called that before. I've always heard it called the birdcage or flybar stiffener.

If this is what your taking about, you don't need it. You won't see an differences in the way it flies, it's just something that can get damaged in a crash. It's more for looks then anything.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y92...4/Raptor50.jpg

RE: Progressing to 3D on an R30 v2
 

Can't understand why so many people have them if they don't improve any flight characteristics...they're not cheap. The quick UK one is nearly £50!

I've always referred to them as an Inline Flybar Stabiliser/Arm.