Ok now I'm scared!
I've got 4 JR DS537 servos that came with my 8301 Tx for my Raptor 60.
After reading a little, it looks like they might be way too weak for my raptor?? Should I be scared to try and fly it with these servos? If I need to get something stronger, what should I get? |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
I might be wrong when I say this... But I think you need around 100 oz in torque for your cyclic, and 120 or so for your collective.
Not 100% though |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
work fine on my .30 doing easy flips and rolls. need more for your sixty to be safe. 70 -100 oz will do ok on the bigger bird
zonk |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
Well, I just purchased 3 Hitec HS-5945MG servos from Tower Hobbies. They're rated at 152oz of torque at 4.8volt. Another $250.00 I didn't expect to spend.
They look like they'll do the trick! I hope. :-) |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
152 OZ of tork sounds like monsters. Overkill
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RE: Ok now I'm scared!
good lord man you do not need hardly any torque to move them... cripes! May not be as fast but these HIGH SPEED / HIGH TORQUE servos have only came out in the past few years. Helicopters have been flying a LONG time.
Anything but the weakest servos will "work" (not ideal) for cyclic. It would be different if the Raptor was eCCPM. Put a good one on your collective if you want it "snappy" Don't buy into the HYPE unless you fly WELL you will not really notice. Edit: You already bought them. [:-] Well you had better get ready to pay for some BIG batteries now too because you will only get 2-3 flights with those BIG old digital servos ;) |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
I run the ds811s on my 50 and they work fine.
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RE: Ok now I'm scared!
LOL, yeah I've got the batteries covered.......I've got 4 2200Mah battery packs for it. :-)
Overkill? Maybe......I'd much rather be safe than sorry though, and considering the servos were only $90 bucks each and completely bulletproof, I don't think that's too outlandish. I'm keeping the one DS537 servo on the throttle, because I'm not worried about that needing torque, but 40oz just didn't seem like enough for collective etc, on a big 60 size bird. I can't fly 3D right now (I sure can on the simulator though!), but I will in the future, so I'd like to know that I've got some stout servos for the long haul. |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
Why do you think "fast" is "safe"? It takes almost no effort on the servos part to move any controls on a mCCPM (except the collective and there it would just be slow) Real full sized helicopters ran on pulleys and cables when they first came out ;) Why would a 6 lb. model "need" 100 oz of torque?
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RE: Ok now I'm scared!
The 811's are good enough on a 50 to learn hovering, forward flight and basic loops and rolls. As soon as I passed that point on my R50 and started to really throw it around they didn't last long. I stretched the gears in all 3 of 811's in just 41 flights. Cyclics and pitch. I replaced the gears but still didn't trust the servos so 6 flights later I removed them. I have since gone to 9252's and the difference was amazing. Much more precise and faster. It flew so much better that I went from a very poor inverted hover at 15" or so to a nice stable 5' inverted hover.
152oz might be a bit much. The 811's have 54oz in of torque and I would not put them in a 60 size heli. |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
Who said "fast is safe"??
I don't remeber making any reference to speed........I was talking about torque. |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
I'd much rather be safe than sorry though |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
Your on the right track HOndaJunkie, 60/90 machines fly best without problems on servos rated 90 oz. in. or better. The biggest differance is a lighter torque rated servo (digital recommended) will wear out, strip gears, or burn out sooner depending on treatment. A performance oriented high torque/speed servo will last longer with minimal maintenance (gear replacement) with the same workload exposure. I call it the light bulb syndrome, burn the bulb bright and it will not last as long, burn the bulb dim and it will glow for quite some time.
I use Futaba 9252's and Hitec 5625's on my Raptor 60 V2 & 90 SE and have no problems. I do use Fromeco Li Ion 4800mah batteries with a Arizona regulator (Duralites are junk) and fly all day without recharging. So load check your receiver battery often, digital servos like the power, especially if there's any linkage binding or servo arm over travel. Be sure to set up linkages good. Your choice was a good one, happy landings. |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
This is the HYPE B.S. I am talking about.
Is it "best" - YES Do you "need" 90 oz. digital servos - NO Do you even "need" digital servos - NO Duralites "Junk" - :eek: Better tell TEAM RAPTOR because that is exactly what they run :) Also all the F3C pilots.... Maybe you have heard of some of them? http://www.duralitebatteries.com/slidesets/heli14.jpg Once again the Duralite regulator may not be "optimal" (compared to a Arizona regulator) but it is far for "junk" and no beginner would notice the voltage drop. |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
I got Futaba 9202 70oz-in. torque servo's in my raptor 60. Are these good enough?
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RE: Ok now I'm scared!
ORIGINAL: reaaz I got Futaba 9202 70oz-in. torque servo's in my raptor 60. Are these good enough? Once again you do not "need" Carbon Fiber blades to do rolls and rolls. I have done plenty with my woodies. To quote David Harkey (that has been flying helicopters over 15 years) ORIGINAL: DAVIDH I have flown a few 60 size XL's with 42 oz servos. Did loops and rolls and stall turns. They flew fine, the servos being used were Futaba 148's with ball bearing caps and the JR 517's with ball bearing. This was back in the mid 90's when the above servos were $15 |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
The lower torque servos will fly a helicopter but you have to keep in context that when these boys were flying the older servos, pitch pumping 3d and switchless inverted were not in vogue. Precision hovering, a loop and roll, FAI style flying was the norm. Nowadays everyone wants to fly like Danny Szabo, and cheap servos simply arent up to it.
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RE: Ok now I'm scared!
well Bara. I for one won't be doing much "wizzbang fwoshh flying" cauze i'm way down in the caribbean & there can be a 4-8week wait for normal international shipped parts & the hobby store down here ain't got much raptor items. So i'll just do some "carefull flying for now.
One thing that i found out about the woden blades is that the covering can lift & "flutter", now that had me horrified & thinking of carbon blades. How long is that sale going on at Vblades D.dog? As for loops & rolls, I'll stick to rule number one, keep rpms to aroun1500rpms or so. On that note anyone ever heard of wooden blade failures due to rpm/agressive flying????? |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
If you have the woodies make sure the covering is on good (go over it with a heat gun)
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RE: Ok now I'm scared!
1700 or 1750 is the rpm limit on woodies. Make sure your blade grips are glued securely.
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RE: Ok now I'm scared!
If thats the limit, well. i'll stay in the safe region of around 1650rpm max
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RE: Ok now I'm scared!
ORIGINAL: DebianDog I'd much rather be safe than sorry though hmmm......let's see, how accurately does this 'drag racing' analogy equate to flying RC Helis? :eek: Thanks to everyone else for their slightly more constructive and logical comments. I know that heavy battery consumption is a definite negative aspect of running these servos, but the bloody things are built like Sherman tanks! I agree that the positives out-weight the single negative. They are really nice servos, and I expect them to last a nice long time. plus, they comes with pretty blue aluminum servo horns!! SCORE! LOL. :) By the way, the H22A series of '4 banger' Honda engine is famous for having a whole lot of torque. But you knew that already right? |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
It was a joke. I had an SRT-4 for a few years. 4 bangers are O.K. But... I will stick with V-8 RWD for the track.
OH BTW an H22A with a stock 200HP and 160 pounds of torque is by no means impressive... but good for a Honda. ;) |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
That's what I said, JUNK............ Duralites with their "failsafe charge circuit" makes it next to impossible to detect a bad cell.
Have you ever watched helplessly at your 90 size CHOPPER as it comes back at you from a receiver pack with a bad cell. Not fun, you RUN. I went to the jet turbine guys who fly at our field and asked what they use on their $10,000.00 planes. All (I'll repeat that, ALL) said don't use Duralites, get the most reliable Li Ion out there, FROMECO. So I looked in every one of their jets throughout several big jet rallies and they use the FROMECO brand. So if FROMECO is good enough for $10,000.00+ valued jets, they're plenty good enough for me and my cheap ol Raptor. Another gentleman, BVM rep, pointed out a box of a dozen bad Duralites that were to be sent back, from non Fromeco customers. The reason the F3C teams and Team Raptor use Duralites are they're given to them, hell yea I'd use em to if they're free and replacement parts are free. But I don't have that luxury so I'll stick with the tried and true.........FROMECO and great support, Kirk and Mike will respond to emails within hours and when you call, the owner will actually speak with you. The best, I'm tellin ya, don't knock em till you see for yourself......FROMECO, you won't be sorry. |
RE: Ok now I'm scared!
Duralite heli packs are 2s2p
If there's a bad cell the other set of series cells will make up for it. The only way you would notice is if you get less flights per charge until the pack drops below safe fly voltage of 6.9 v Also they are 8.4 volts when fully charged, even if something went wrong in flight you got a ways to go before you drag the system below 4.8 volts and cause a crash. Combined with a switch safe regulator they are a nearly bullet proof battery system. |
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