Wood skinning the fuselage: How too?
12-21-2010, 08:05 PM
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Wood skinning the fuselage: How too?
I'm at the point now where I will be skinning the fuselage of the Albatros D.III that I'm building. Before you answer I'm not talking about planking the method used on the Roland D.VI. Please have any of you guys ever took sheets of thin wood ply or balsa and skinned the fuselage? How did you do that?? If you have done this could you give me and everyone else a step by step account of this. My plan is this: once the D.III is covered (fuselage) then I'm going to put silk over the wood (ply?/balsa?). That method is going to make the shell hard as a rock. So thats it and thanks guys. Mike.
12-22-2010, 06:54 AM
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RE: Wood skinning the fuselage: How too?
Mike-
I'm sure you're going to get some detailed responses from those who are much handier than I am. But, for what it's worth, I've skinned a few sets of floats and a fuse or two. Many applications can be handled with the old tried and true method of using 3/32" balsa sheets, butt glued and sanded. Then, once cut to an approximate pattern, sanded, dampened, clamped on until dry then filled and sanded prior to covering with cloth/resin. This method works on wings and things (as you probably know already). But for a fuse youv'e got some tough curves to deal with.
I've used 1/64th plywood, usually available from BUSA. This material doesn't edge glue very easily. So I use the largest pieces I can get. Make a pattern using card stock (slightly oversize). Cut your plywood running the grain in the proper direction to allow bending. Then I soak it in warm water with a splash of ammonia and place the sheet in position using whatever is handy to hold it in place (clamps, tape, rubber bands etc.). Once dry I remove it and glue in place using CA but be careful as CA doesn't sand well at all. Then I just keep adding sections until it's done. Sand (being careful not to make thin areas over the formers), fill, resand etc. Don't be afraid to add extra internal support if running over an open space to keep the amount of 'flex' minimized.
Once satisfied, I usually use 0.5 or 0.75 oz. fibergalss cloth which is held down with an epoxy resin like System 3 (used to be available from Nelson but these days I think you can go direct to their site). Give plenty of time to dry, sand then put on another coat. Sand again. Any imperfections will show through so be patient here. Then prime and you're good to go.
This method will give you a 'shell' as hard as a rock.
Again, you should get some ideas more sophisticated than this but perhaps this info gives you something to think about. Good luck! Oh, there are some areas which may seem impossible and there I have used planking myself so don't discount that method completely.
Augie
I'm sure you're going to get some detailed responses from those who are much handier than I am. But, for what it's worth, I've skinned a few sets of floats and a fuse or two. Many applications can be handled with the old tried and true method of using 3/32" balsa sheets, butt glued and sanded. Then, once cut to an approximate pattern, sanded, dampened, clamped on until dry then filled and sanded prior to covering with cloth/resin. This method works on wings and things (as you probably know already). But for a fuse youv'e got some tough curves to deal with.
I've used 1/64th plywood, usually available from BUSA. This material doesn't edge glue very easily. So I use the largest pieces I can get. Make a pattern using card stock (slightly oversize). Cut your plywood running the grain in the proper direction to allow bending. Then I soak it in warm water with a splash of ammonia and place the sheet in position using whatever is handy to hold it in place (clamps, tape, rubber bands etc.). Once dry I remove it and glue in place using CA but be careful as CA doesn't sand well at all. Then I just keep adding sections until it's done. Sand (being careful not to make thin areas over the formers), fill, resand etc. Don't be afraid to add extra internal support if running over an open space to keep the amount of 'flex' minimized.
Once satisfied, I usually use 0.5 or 0.75 oz. fibergalss cloth which is held down with an epoxy resin like System 3 (used to be available from Nelson but these days I think you can go direct to their site). Give plenty of time to dry, sand then put on another coat. Sand again. Any imperfections will show through so be patient here. Then prime and you're good to go.
This method will give you a 'shell' as hard as a rock.
Again, you should get some ideas more sophisticated than this but perhaps this info gives you something to think about. Good luck! Oh, there are some areas which may seem impossible and there I have used planking myself so don't discount that method completely.
Augie
12-22-2010, 07:35 AM
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RE: Wood skinning the fuselage: How too?
I do not believe you are going to make any kind of ply work. The Albatross will require compound curves (curved in both directions) and ply will not do that, and you are really going to have to work at it to try and make balsa do that.
Les
Les
12-22-2010, 09:59 AM
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RE: Wood skinning the fuselage: How too?
Just for your reference, Mike, here is a similar thread with some tips and links:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10196659
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10196659
12-22-2010, 08:29 PM
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RE: Wood skinning the fuselage: How too?
Les: Thank you for your reply. Ply or Balsa one or the other its been done. Look at the guys that operate 1/3th or 1/4th scale Albi"s Ie. Dave Johnson and Gary Sunderland to name two. Thats why I'm asking. So again Les thank you for taking time and for helping me out.
12-22-2010, 08:46 PM
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RE: Wood skinning the fuselage: How too?
Augie: You are the man! Today I was talking with Eddie from Lazer Works and he made a very good point and that is: that the people in this hobby are very helpful to one another. I have to agree today alone I got a couple of phone calls about this subject and the fellas from this web site! A great group of guys. So thanks again Augie and Merry Christmas to ya!!..
12-23-2010, 06:12 AM
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RE: Wood skinning the fuselage: How too?
Mike- thanks for the complement. I was hoping you'd get some really expert input and my suggestions were just to get you thinking. I've always been surprised by what you can do with 1/64th ply and also with planking. Sounds like you're on the right track. Good luck with the Albatros and Merry Christmas!
Aug
Aug
12-26-2010, 09:05 AM
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RE: Wood skinning the fuselage: How too?
A little tip for you,
I made a fuse tail fairing out of 1/64th ply and It had compund curves. I cut a poster board template then transfered it to the ply. Once the ply was the correct size I set the ply in a dinner plate and covered it with hot water. I then put it into the microwave for 1-1/2 minutes. This completely steamed the ply and made it very pliable and I was able to form the compund curved. I fastened the fairing into place and let it dry for one day. After removing the fairing it maintaned it's shape.
There are limits as to how much of a compund curve you can achieve but you will be surprised at what you can do.
Good Luck!!
Anthony
I made a fuse tail fairing out of 1/64th ply and It had compund curves. I cut a poster board template then transfered it to the ply. Once the ply was the correct size I set the ply in a dinner plate and covered it with hot water. I then put it into the microwave for 1-1/2 minutes. This completely steamed the ply and made it very pliable and I was able to form the compund curved. I fastened the fairing into place and let it dry for one day. After removing the fairing it maintaned it's shape.
There are limits as to how much of a compund curve you can achieve but you will be surprised at what you can do.
Good Luck!!
Anthony
12-26-2010, 05:18 PM
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RE: Wood skinning the fuselage: How too?
I just skinned a couple of sections of a fuselage with 1/8" balsa using a little different technique. I cut the pieces oversize, then located a round object that was approximately the same diameter as the finished curve. I then soaked the wood in hot water and wrapped the wet piece around the round form using masking tape to hold it tightly in place. After a thorough drying period, I then carefully fitted the pieces to the fuse. The advantage was that I was not in a rush to get the piece fitted and glued before it dried out. The result was better than I had hoped for. If you try this method, just be careful removing the masking tape; it can pull up a chunk of balsa if you don't "peel" it back easy.
12-26-2010, 08:17 PM
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RE: Wood skinning the fuselage: How too?
Tony: I like your idea alot. I know it can be done with plywood it's the question on how you do it. Tony thank you so much and sir have a Happy New Year. Mike.
12-26-2010, 10:25 PM
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RE: Wood skinning the fuselage: How too?
ORIGINAL: mocgp
I just skinned a couple of sections of a fuselage with 1/8'' balsa using a little different technique. I cut the pieces oversize, then located a round object that was approximately the same diameter as the finished curve. I then soaked the wood in hot water and wrapped the wet piece around the round form using masking tape to hold it tightly in place. After a thorough drying period, I then carefully fitted the pieces to the fuse. The advantage was that I was not in a rush to get the piece fitted and glued before it dried out. The result was better than I had hoped for. If you try this method, just be careful removing the masking tape; it can pull up a chunk of balsa if you don't ''peel'' it back easy.
I just skinned a couple of sections of a fuselage with 1/8'' balsa using a little different technique. I cut the pieces oversize, then located a round object that was approximately the same diameter as the finished curve. I then soaked the wood in hot water and wrapped the wet piece around the round form using masking tape to hold it tightly in place. After a thorough drying period, I then carefully fitted the pieces to the fuse. The advantage was that I was not in a rush to get the piece fitted and glued before it dried out. The result was better than I had hoped for. If you try this method, just be careful removing the masking tape; it can pull up a chunk of balsa if you don't ''peel'' it back easy.
While I have not done it myself, I've read a tutorial where molded balsa was held in place with an ace bandade while setting up. They also described using relief cuts for more pronounced compound curves. This was from a CD I came across on the internet about molded balsa construction.
12-26-2010, 10:31 PM
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RE: Wood skinning the fuselage: How too?
Thank you sir: how I just learned something this early hour(A Ace bandage) now that will work. I'm copying that down right after I say THANK YOU very much. Mike.
