1. What glue to use on a steel motor mount to APO foam on a FZ 48" piper cub? The factory uses something white and a bit flexible.

I have super rc Z 56 flexible for foams , Beacon Foam tac , or foam safe CA. Is any of these appropriate ? the best?


2. I'd like to reinforce my (fuse bottom) landing gear on my GP E-stik and it is plywood and maybe balsa on the sides. I want to cut a piece of plywood and simply glue it down as a doubler where the bolts go up thru. I may even screw 2 nuts on top of the re-inforcement piece. What glue to use?

I have elmers white glue (school glue) and tester's wood glue and CA of course. It's going to have some gap I'm afraid because of the T-nuts. Is these glues appropriate or the best?


Thanks, sorry it is basic question I have not much experience in repair or building. [&o]

I like Exopy for the foam job, be sure and roughen up that metal so you get a good bite

Just about any glue for the Gear block doubler if all you're doing is adding more meat for the screw/nuts to bite into,, CA would be fine

It would be best to shave the gear doubler where the blind nuts are so that you get good contact for gluing. Depending on the glue to take up the extra space isn't he best idea.

Hmmm,,
I assumed he was going to remove and reset the blind nuts into the additional ply,, why else add a doubler?
I sure wouldn't hide them between layers,, what if you needed access in the future?

Doubling that gear block isn't going to do you any good. I've never heard of a gear block breaking, but I've heard of a lot of them tearing out. If you want to strengthen the gear block, install some hardwood vertical blocks on each side to use the fuselage sides to spread out the load.

Oh, and do use slow set epoxy for the gear block job or anything else you glue that is structural and thick. 30 minute will work fine, but slower is just as good if you have it. CA doesn't stay liquid long enough to soak into the wood and make a real solid bond, and drying type glues aren't as reliable to harden in the middle of the joint and also won't fill gaps effectively. Epoxy turns to plastic when it cures and will be nearly as strong as the wood that it bonds.

Actually a good wood glue such as Titebond II will penetrate and cure as well as or better than epoxy. Use a thin, even layer and clamp or weight the pieces for 24 hours and you'll have a joint that is as strong as you could ask for. You'll rip the wood apart before the joint lets go.