Would a guy begin a job like this by base covering all in white first then applying the stripes over it, or would the covering be be pre cut into the stripes and applied directly with a slight overlap for a one layer job?

It would be easier to answer that if you could post a picture of the airplane uncovered. My experience is that multiple layers of iron on covering over open structure is almost impossible to do cleanly. The pictured airplane may even be painted.

I've done it both ways. If the wings have open structure, I would do the white first, then overlay the stripes. If using monokote, the windex method works good. Ultracote works very well for overlays if you work carefully, and keep the temp low enough to just stick the covering. No bubbles at all.
Chuck

On a job like that the white and blue should have a 1/4 inch overlap between them with the white going under the blue. The red then goes over the white. If you tried to do seams for all those red lines every one of them becomes a spot to get loose or to lift and ruin the whole wing panel. Even with overlapping it that's not going to be a durable covering job because of all the seams that are facing into the airflow.

Thanks guys, I absorbed a bit of knowledge from each of your posts and now have a positive direction to move, white and blue base on the fuse and wing, the stripes I'll deal with later, maybe try the sqeegee windex method or low heat iron method, hate to see those air blisters.under layered covering.

OK, but remember that the windex method doesn't work with Ultracote.

Taking a second look, I see that there is a narrow blue strip at the leading edges. If you will wait until last to put that on, that will get the fronts of those strips out of the airflow. In general, you always want to put darker covering over lighter covering since none of it is fully oapque.

That's exactly what I was thinking, the blue leading edge should lock in all the seems.
I'm already stocked on the white Monokote and have quite a bit of experience using it, know all so well about blistering multiple layers but never tried anything other than the iron. I'll try getting some as I go.

I suppose the white lettering and pin striping will be vinyl graphics? If you do them in monokote, they will have a blue tint to them.

Open frame can be done with a lot of detail but you have to be more careful to avoid air pockets and use a heat gun and glove to do it. Sheeted surfaces are easier but done the same way except you don't have to apply the full covering sheet first. Over lays should have at least 1/4" over laps and taped in place prior to heating and the base cover should be shrank at a higher temp as the over lays will be put on using just enough heat to activate adhesive. Work the larger part of over lays pushing out the air with glove as you go towards the smaller end if your overlays are tapered. All laps should be done so as not to be facing the air stream over them. I use Ultra Cote because it requires less heat to apply and all pieces are pre cut before they go on.

Covering doesn't have to be hard to do and heat management is key to success so some test runs will help get the hang of it, use a piece of Masonite to practice on, you can get 1/4 sheets at a home center. On my plane I used vinyl for the checkers because it's adhesive is more aggressive and the corners won't raise.

Take your time, good luck

I also like floating on my trim colors with Windex and then sealing the edges with trim solvent. If I am covering with plastic film then it's with MonoKote.

Bob