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Canopy Gluing

Old 07-11-2002, 02:11 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

OK All....whats the trick?

I've always prided myself on my building/covering skills...but the one place...that I ALWAYS screw up is glueing on the damn canopy. For instance, on my Sig SE that I built (in my avatar) I butchered the canopy job SO BAD that I had to paint it silver....and While it looked OK, its just not right. Also, my H9 Cap 232 ARF that I'm just finishing up....looks like CRAP too. I'm using "Canopy Glue", the stuff that is related to "ZAP" products. How-n-the-heck do you get a nice, clean "invisible" glue joint with something like that? It looked, felt & smelt like really wattered down Elmers....
Old 07-11-2002, 02:21 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

Clear silicon? Can trim and roll off excess after its dry.
Old 07-11-2002, 03:35 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

I use the RC56. it DOES look like Elmers glue, but that's where the similarity ends. I have always had the same problem attaching canopys. Once I tried the RC56, I wouldn't even think of using anything else.

It goes on like Elmers, but it dries like clear silicon.
Old 07-11-2002, 03:36 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

I have used the Fourmost canopy trim and it looks real nice. Actually, the window trim seems to work better for most canopys. I get it from Tower Hobbies.

Tom
Old 07-11-2002, 04:41 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

Originally posted by MinnFlyer
I use the RC56. it DOES look like Elmers glue, but that's where the similarity ends. I have always had the same problem attaching canopys. Once I tried the RC56, I wouldn't even think of using anything else.

It goes on like Elmers, but it dries like clear silicon.



The problem I have is that the "Formual 560" that I used was WAY too thin. If I tried putting enough on to get glue between all of the overlap...it would just run all over the side of the plane. Seriously though..it had the consitancy of watered down elmers white glue. It dried clear, and looks OK on the rear and front of the canopy, where the canopy's edge just touches the fuse..but on the sides, where there is a flat surface where the fuse and the canopy meet, the glue is still clear, but "Splotchy"...if that makes any sense....I'll try to take a pic and post it.....
Old 07-11-2002, 06:10 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

I'm building a Sif 4*40. I heard that using Monokote trim sheets trimed to thin stripes to "tape" it to the fuse. What do you guys think about this idea?

Cliff
Old 07-11-2002, 07:18 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

I had the same problems that SloFlight did with the RC560 glue on a Spacewalker canopy. In the spots that the canopy wasn't firmly pressed to the fuse, the result was splotchy, white and clear spots. It was ugly and I ripped it off.

Now, I have used the 560 on other canopies and it worked fine. This time I bought a (dusty) new bottle from a low-traffic LHS and it failed (on the Spacewalker canopy). I think it was old.

So just today I went to the high-traffic LHS and bought a new bottle. By the way, they've changed the size of the bottle to two (2) oz at a price of US$3.59...about 1/3 size of the old bottle...***sigh***
We'll see if this works on the 4*60 canopy.

While I was there the 'HobbyMaster' said not to use the RC560 on anything bigger than a 120 size as the vibration will loosen the adhesive and the canopy will bail. He says in larger planes use 'shoe-goo'. He suggested drilling 1/16 holes all around the canopy lip so the RC560 could penetrate outside and somewhat around the holes holding it on better. The holes would be covered by a narrow piece of trim tape.

Maybe I'll try it. I'll try anything once. LOL
Old 07-11-2002, 07:28 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

I've used monokote trim to hold on a canopy before and it works good. My Epic Extra 300 uses the sticky covering it came with. I also use clear silicone when I glue down a canopy.
Old 07-11-2002, 09:29 PM
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Default Canopy attachment

On a model with a "permanent" (non-opening) canopy, I like silicone too.

It's easy to form, won't damage the plastic, dries clear, resists vibration that can crack other glues, and best of all, can be removed later, if need be. (if you re-cover you model, for example.)

I tried all the popular methods, and they all failed eventually. Once I found silicone, I quit looking for other methods. Never had one come loose, using it.

If you use it on the outside of the canopy frame, a popsicle stick makes a good tool (or your fingertip, dipped in water) to form a nice smooth fillet around the edges.
Old 07-11-2002, 09:59 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

mikejames0, I'm converting toward the silicone method, it sure makes sense when you think about it.

If it looks ratty, just peal it off and do it again.

Would you recommend that the canopy gets glued (siliconed) to bare wood or would it be all right to silicone to the covering?
Old 07-11-2002, 11:03 PM
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Default Canopy attachment

Hi Dave,

It will work over covering, but I prefer a little more security, which you can gain by using one of two methods: (I usually paint a thin "frame" around my canopies, on the inside, by the way.)

If applying it over covering, you could poke small holes around the perimeter of the gluing area with a straight pin, then apply the silicone, so it forms little "pegs" that will assist in holding "through" the covering.

Or...

You could remove a thin perimeter (say, 1/8th inch) of covering in that area, since the canopy frame is painted, and it won't show, then silicone it directly to the wood.
Old 07-11-2002, 11:34 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

Thanks, Mike!

I'm going to try that this time instead of the RC560.

I appreciate your great tip. Thanks!
Old 07-12-2002, 12:39 AM
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Default Canopy Gluing

I found that the white remaining eventualyl becomes clear and things look better. Could be weeks with the 560. I also found it to be too thin, but a very little bit all around has kept my 4*60 canopy on despite the YS91 on it and the fuse breaking in half once .

I will continue to use the 560, at about 25 cents per canopy it's pretty reasonable. I had silicone peel off fairly quickly when I tried it and I kind of made a mess with it. To each his own!
Old 07-12-2002, 12:48 AM
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Default Canopy Gluing

***Sigh***

Just when I thought I had resolved my problen, there has to be another side to the story.......

...Thanks for your honesty and input 4*60...but...

...***sigh***
Old 07-12-2002, 03:25 AM
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Default THIS IS HOW I GLUE MY CANOPY ON

AFTER CUTTING OUT THE CANOPY I PAINT IT TO MATCH THE COVERING AND I USE ZAP-ADAP-A-GOO GLUE. RUN A SMALL BEAD, AND TAPE THE CANOPY DOWN WITH THE BLUE INTERIOR TRIM TAPE. LET THE GLUE DRY FOR 24 HOURS.
AFTER PULLING THE TAPE OFF I TRIM OFF THE EXCESS GLUE THAT RUNS OFF.
NEDYOB
Old 07-12-2002, 03:36 AM
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Default Canopy Gluing

My biggest gripe with 560 is the instructions:

"Tape down the canopy around the edges to hold it in place"

Well... Yuhhh... but the glue creeps into the tape joint. What a mess. I had better luck separating the canopy from the deck and letting the glue thicken up for a while. Then place the canopy down and tape/screw into place. I can't wait to glue in my Cub windows. Silicone is looking good.
Old 07-12-2002, 06:58 PM
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Default 4* canopy

I attached my 4Star 120 canopy with 1/4" vinyl pin stripping tape from the local automotive store. It is very easy to apply. As long as it's not directly in the exhaust path, it'll stay on for a long time. It's been on my 4* for 3 years with a shaking Zenoah G23. One roll will do a bunch of canopies.

I've also used the 560 stuff. I've used it on the covering with good results. I put it in a syringe and try to get a fine precise line and amount. It doesn't take a whole bunch. I make sure to clean the canopy and covering thoroughly with a clean cloth and alcohol. I use latex exam gloves to keep from inadvertently getting finger prints on the inside.

I've used the Zap a Dap A goo and shoe goo... too. This stuff is tenacious. These products work great but are a pain to dispense and apply. They're also a one shot deal... for me. No squirming or sliding around or the stuff gets everywhere. Cleanup is painful.

Seems the key to a good canopy attachment job is how well you can hide the attachment!
Old 07-12-2002, 07:04 PM
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Default Re: 4* canopy

Originally posted by Cabane
Seems the key to a good canopy attachment job is how well you can hide the attachment!
AMEN TO THAT!
Old 07-12-2002, 07:33 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

Thanks, Cabane! Great tips!

I just bought about a mile of that trim-stripe tape at the local auto paint store yesterday. I may just try it initially and see how it holds up.

This really scares me...but in the Sig 4*60 book they state it is fine to use medium CA on the canopy if you spray it first with accelerator. They say it won't fog.

I think I'll let someone else try that first...LOL

With the canopy I'm working on now, I don't have to wear latex exam gloves as I have painted it so opaque no one could see my fingerprints. LOL Even the pilot would need night-vision goggles to taxi!

Thanks again, all these tips add-up and are always useful at some time.
Old 07-13-2002, 03:29 AM
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Default Canopy Gluing

By far the best canopy glue is PFM. Looks like and has the consistency of silicone but dries harder and absolutely clear. PFM, as an adhesive, is far superior to silicone. I have used most all of the methods mentioned above but nothing works as well as PFM. If you can't get PFM through your local hobby shop, it is also sold under the name "E-6000" and can be found at larger crafts stores. In my local area, E-6000 is available at a large craft store named "Michaels". Like silicone, PFM/E-6000 is water cleanup when cured and sticks hard to virtually anything. It cannot be used on foam.
Old 07-13-2002, 01:16 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

On some of my smaller planes. I leave some tabs on the canopy when I cut it out.
when you set the canopy in place, mark the spot for the tabs, then make a puncture with the tip of an exacto, fold the tabs and insert them into the slots. You can then either tape the seam or both glue and tape it. The tabs really help with the strenght.
Old 07-13-2002, 02:15 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

Wow! Great tips and new ideas! Thanks, aptar and jemo!

I'm adding those to my short-list of keepers!

Thanks again for sharing.
Old 07-19-2002, 02:15 PM
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Default A DIFFERENT IDEA

In every case possible I have secured my caonpies with self tapping screws. (sometimes with the bright silver allen head type or the very tiny black phillip head) Looks great and you don't have to worry about messy glue, and the bond weakening from fuel.
Old 07-19-2002, 04:26 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

I have also used screws, I like to be able to take things apart, but I have had failures with this method on some types of planes.
The screws can really look good on some models.
Old 07-28-2002, 12:33 PM
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Default Canopy Gluing

I have used silicone and mostly lately PFM.
But at the recent WRAM show in NY, I came across a product called CoolChem.
www.coolchem.com

It is a CA-Epoxy... yup instant epoxy.
I have used it building planes, firewalls and I even glued back on a ripped out firewall at teh field in between pylon heats after a hard landing.
The stuff is incredable.
It comes with a plastic conditioner and I tried it on a canopy on a Raven. Dries intantly , gives like expoxy and dries Clear....
I am hooked on this stuff....
Ken

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