Steel guitar strings can be pretty handy items. For instance:

Four stroke flyiers can attest to carbs being located in difficult to get to positions. A wound "E" string is far more fexible than the standard RC control cable and will make throttle control connections easier. In situations where the carb control arm is located close to the firewall to accomodate a clevis, strings can be "Z"bent to connect to the throttle arm. No clevis needed. For extra stiffening, saturate the string with solder. Phosphor bronze coated strings love solder. Just flux and it wicks like crazy. The outer sleeve may be typical Ny-rod or similar tubing. I've been using this method for some years now and have no complaints.

Guitar strings ought to lend themselves well to other uses. Haven't had a need, but an "E" or "B" string ought to be perfect as spoiler actuator cables. Brace wires ought to be another natural. Flying wires that do not actually carry load can be fashioned with 2-56 clevises by wrapping a "B" string for a 3/4" (or so) length. Soak with solder then thread on a clevis.

BTW, the eyelet swedged on the end of strings makes them just right for pulling electrical wires.

Now for the nuts and bolts:

E* string=.013 dia, rated 27 lbs pull
B string= .017 dia, rated 26 lbs pull
G string= .026 dia, rated 35 lbs pull
D string= .035 dia, rated 36.8 lbs pull
A string= .045 dia, rated 34 lbs pull
E string = .056 dia, rated 29 lbs pull ( this string is wound and is most useful as throttle control cable.

* Note: guitar strings have two "E" strings. The "E" string mentioned in the narrative refers to the "Low E" or "wound" string.

Guitar strings are often sold by individual strings as well as in complete packs. If you pick guitar or have a friend who does, you'll have a ready supply of free strings! If not, you need only buy the specific size that suits your needs. Good luck!

I just changed my guitar strings a week ago and of course tossed them.[] I did have a slight problem with my 4-stroke cable and was thinking about changing it to a flexable wire, then I found the problem and it was not the cable but the end of a Z bend on the clevis was catching.

During your "pull" test, were they all the same brand or do differnt brands have different strengths? I am not looking for a scientific response nor do I really need to know. Why ask? Just curious, thats all.[sm=rolleyes.gif]

ddubya, I like the idea a lot, but isn't your rating chart a little generic? Not a dig, just an observation that strings may vary widely. I don't get to play much anymore, but I always used D'Addario strings. I started out using XL120s(heavy metal strings), but was alway snapping the high e on pulls or tuning up a step. Whatever Dean Markley strings I got would snap if you looked at 'em just right. When I switched to XL110s(jazz strings), I lost the problem(not to mention I thought it added a nice beefy twang. If you don't mind, could you tell us what strings your specs above apply to?

Yeah, the specs were taken from specs from D'Addario mediums. EJ17. And as you say, just a guideline .... if you have a specific task in mind, you will want to test for yourself. Incidentally, the tension numbers are are based on a 25.50" length. Can't tell you if the numbers reflect "yield" or if it reflects "operating" tension.

Thanks, ddubya. That's good to know. I'll have to see how that compares to what I've got laying around here...

Guitar strings also make a dandy cutting wire if your into hot wire cutting foam wings.

Dave...