I'm joining two ABS halves together. Does anyone have a suggestion on what filler or putty to use, so I can elimnate the "seam"?

Having never used either on plastic before, is it difficult to make it stick or hold?

Tks

There may be something better but what I've used with very good results is the 3M automotive spot putty. Can't remember the proper name but it's a reddish brown color and comes in a metal tube like toothpaste used to come in years ago. It sands easily and dries very quickly. I've not had any failures, flaking off or cracking in the three I've used it on.

Bondo or the spot putty Greg talks about work well. The spot putty will sand smoother than bondo.

Spot Putty, are you referring to NitroStan. UIsually in a yellow metal tube and is almost a burnt red color. Works great.

new lite weight car Bondo is good as all the other post.

TerrellFlyer,

I have not used the "new" stuff, thanks for the the heads up.

I just looked at the stuff I have. I'm sure it's the same as the other burnt red putty mentioned. It's 3m Acryl-Putty, Part No.051144-05966. You can sand it smooth and it leaves no trace under the paint.

Where are you guys getting this red spot putty? It's not something that has to be mixed with a catalyst, like bondo, is it? That's all I could find in the auto parts stores.

Jim

Most auto parts store should have spot putty, If not find one that sells auto painting supply's.

Good luck
Mark

It is best to fill the seams first with Bondo because it is stronger than spot (aka: glazing putty or finishing putty). After getting the bulk of the seam filled and sanded with the bondo, then use the red glazing putty for filling the scratch and small pit marks. You don't want to build the glazing putty up too thick otherwise it will crack on you. Also, the glazing putty does not stick to ABS as well as the bondo will. Good luck. Greg

I like to use what Greg mentions. The only problem with Bondo is that you have to mix and batch up a quantity more than needed, as it will not take off for hardening unless a significant quantity is brewed. Pink, not red nor gray is best blended color. Bondo will also emit pin holes if you stir it up too vigorously. You repair the pin holes with 3M green putty. A tiny dab over each hole then let set about two minutes, and sand off with wet 220 paper.

Only thing not mentioned here is that 3M spot putty will react with certain plastic like materials. It contains Tolulene, which goes right to the heart of plastics. You have to use it in very small or thin amounts so that it dries fast and not harm the plastics. It is not designed to be flexible, as it is expected to be only a few thousanth's thick before primer application. It is not designed for multiple thick layers. Try a splotch on the inside before going to the outside. As Bondo is not a pure plastic, the spot putty joins it just fine.

I haven't seen Bondo react to applications on plastics, and thus ought to be safe to apply, but a pain. It is harder than most plastics, so watch it when sanding off the excess or you will cavitate and then need to expand your coverage with another layer of Bondo. It was made for attaching to steel, and thus the hardness is insignificant. However, the spot putty is rather soft when hardened, and will sand away sometimes too fast, and thus you need another application.

The Evercoat brand is a bit hotter to use. It is designed to melt into paint and other surfaces to provide a hard tight connection. It will melt into ABS if the standard application is used. They do have a fiberglass line, but have not tried it. However, the other two brands are less rough in their attachment. Bondo runs about $9 per quart and if kept out of the heat will last about 3 years. 3M body putty runs about $8 per tube locally and will last about two years before going hard.


Wm.

Wm

You are definitely right that glazing/spot putty is made only for thin applications, otherwise it will eventually crack or peel. Actually, the Bondo type filler that I use is Evercoat Lightweight 3. This is made mainly for fiberglass but also works great on ABS. It's not as hot as regular Evercoat. I know that this method of filling seams is not as convenient as a one part filler (glazing putty only) but this is the way these products are designed to be used. Good luck. Greg

You can find it at WalMart in the automotive section. Just squeeze it out of the tube and apply it. No catalyst required. I believe it's called "Glazing and Spot putty".

Bondo works in small quantities if you add the correct amount of catalyst. Also if you rough up the surface with 80 grit and then use epoxy with micro balloons followed by the spot putty that works well also.

Flexible polyester filler works best. It mixes like body filler, but it is thinner and goes on smoother. Its a cross between spot putty and body filler and is made for the plastic bumpers. You can get it online at places like TCP.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydep...itemno=FIB+411

Hi!
If you want a duarble finnish there is no better than 24hour epoxy and microballons!
Spot putty or bodo will sooner or later crack if too thick! This will work on all surfaces!

I have taken and cut the abs into small slivers; disolved them in acetone until I had a thin "putty" and applied that. The acetone was a solvent to the abs, so everything was "bonded" together.

Les

Here is what I use. It is sold at most hobby shops that sell plastic models. It shrinks a bit so a second application is needed. Very easy to sand. Cheap and easy.

Kurt

The best filler I've used on ABS is taking scraps of the ABS... cutting it up into tiny pieces... pencil tip tiny... and mix it with testors model cement until it turns into a putty. When it dries... it's sandable and the bond is as stong as the ABS itself.

The best filler I've used on ABS is taking scraps of the ABS... cutting it up into tiny pieces... pencil tip tiny... and mix it with testors model cement until it turns into a putty. When it dries... it's sandable and the bond is as stong as the ABS itself.

The best filler I've used on ABS is taking scraps of the ABS... cutting it up into tiny pieces... pencil tip tiny... and mix it with testors model cement until it turns into a putty. When it dries... it's sandable and the bond is as stong as the ABS itself.