Field Stand
#127

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I build one slightly different. I did these today to take to a swap meet. I am not sure where the original plans came from, I altered mine from another guy who had a folding table at our club. You can see a folded one against the dressers and two fully open. The rack along the bottom is perfect for a flight box and the fuse arms are peg ajustable. They stow along the bottom rail for transport.
#129

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A couple of people have asked me for the plans for those tables, I have no way to scan a drawing (I am no great hand with a drawing program either) but I did email them these instructions and cut list. I thought I would post it here.
Legs: 4 - 38 x 1 1/2 x 3/4 Drill a 1/2" hole 7/16" from one end, 16 inches center to center to the next hole (the hole in the middle is for the scissors joint) Center the holes on the piece.
Cross pieces on the legs. 2 - 20 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 3/4 with two pre drilled holes on the ends to attach to the legs.
Cross pieces on the legs. 2 - 22 3/8 x 1 1/2 x 3/4 with two pre drilled holes on the ends to attach to the legs. The first set are 3 inches from bottom and the next are set 10 inches above the first. Pre drill dowel holes in these before assembly to store the fuselage supports. One set of legs will be slightly wider than the other set so that they will fit together to lay flat.
Table top.
Start with;
2 - 1/2 plywood cut 24x13
4 - 1 1/2 x 24 x 3/4 lumber with a 1/4 x 1/2 dado cut one side of each running the length. Glue these to the long edges of the plywood. I also used pins to keep them in place until the glue dries. The bottom of the lumber must be flush with the bottom of the plywood.
4 - 1 1/2 x 24 x 34 lumber with a 1/2 hole bored 7/16" from the end. These are the top supports
Glue the top supports to the underside of the table tops that you glued up in the above steps. They should stick out 8 1/2 inches or so from the sides of the table top. One set can be glued flush with the sides. The other set VERY IMPORTANT must be inset enough on each side to allow the whole unit to fold together. The inset is about 2 1/2 inches but do a dry fit to be sure everything will clear.
Assembly.
Sandwich the two sets of legs together, the center 1/2" holes should line up. Take a 1 3/8 " piece of 1/2 PVC tubing and slide into the lined up holes. Drill a hole through the outside set of legs and insert a screw to hold the tube in (this is your pivot joint). Line up the holes in the wider table top assembly with the holes in the end of the wider set of legs and insert PVC tubing again. Be careful how you assemble the inner legs with the narrower table top assembly as you might need to take it apart again if you are on the wrong side of the other table top assembly. Again use PVC to fit them together. The PVC acts as joints for everything. Make sure no PVC extends outside of the joints though, as this may catch on the parts when they are folding together.
I am pretty sure that no RC kit company would want to hire me to write their assembly books so ask questions if you need answers
I will try to take more detailed photos of the tables when I get the chance. Hopefully I will sell them tommorow though, gotta get my Balsa USA Fix..........want thier Neuiport 28 next....or maybe thier Fokker DVIII (I wrecked mine).........hmmm so many choices. [8D] I have thier Fokker DVII, Fokker Eindecker, Sopwith Pup and a Dynaflite SE5.....I kinda like the WWI birds.
Legs: 4 - 38 x 1 1/2 x 3/4 Drill a 1/2" hole 7/16" from one end, 16 inches center to center to the next hole (the hole in the middle is for the scissors joint) Center the holes on the piece.
Cross pieces on the legs. 2 - 20 3/4 x 1 1/2 x 3/4 with two pre drilled holes on the ends to attach to the legs.
Cross pieces on the legs. 2 - 22 3/8 x 1 1/2 x 3/4 with two pre drilled holes on the ends to attach to the legs. The first set are 3 inches from bottom and the next are set 10 inches above the first. Pre drill dowel holes in these before assembly to store the fuselage supports. One set of legs will be slightly wider than the other set so that they will fit together to lay flat.
Table top.
Start with;
2 - 1/2 plywood cut 24x13
4 - 1 1/2 x 24 x 3/4 lumber with a 1/4 x 1/2 dado cut one side of each running the length. Glue these to the long edges of the plywood. I also used pins to keep them in place until the glue dries. The bottom of the lumber must be flush with the bottom of the plywood.
4 - 1 1/2 x 24 x 34 lumber with a 1/2 hole bored 7/16" from the end. These are the top supports
Glue the top supports to the underside of the table tops that you glued up in the above steps. They should stick out 8 1/2 inches or so from the sides of the table top. One set can be glued flush with the sides. The other set VERY IMPORTANT must be inset enough on each side to allow the whole unit to fold together. The inset is about 2 1/2 inches but do a dry fit to be sure everything will clear.
Assembly.
Sandwich the two sets of legs together, the center 1/2" holes should line up. Take a 1 3/8 " piece of 1/2 PVC tubing and slide into the lined up holes. Drill a hole through the outside set of legs and insert a screw to hold the tube in (this is your pivot joint). Line up the holes in the wider table top assembly with the holes in the end of the wider set of legs and insert PVC tubing again. Be careful how you assemble the inner legs with the narrower table top assembly as you might need to take it apart again if you are on the wrong side of the other table top assembly. Again use PVC to fit them together. The PVC acts as joints for everything. Make sure no PVC extends outside of the joints though, as this may catch on the parts when they are folding together.
I am pretty sure that no RC kit company would want to hire me to write their assembly books so ask questions if you need answers

#130

Hay Grinder
Do I understand correctly, do you have a copy of Greg Finan’s field stand plans that you are shearing? I have tried direct contact and the links with no luck. If so would you be so kind as to send a set to me at [email protected]
Thank you
Gary
Do I understand correctly, do you have a copy of Greg Finan’s field stand plans that you are shearing? I have tried direct contact and the links with no luck. If so would you be so kind as to send a set to me at [email protected]
Thank you
Gary
#131
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#133

Hi Jimmyd56,
I know this is an old thread but I just down loaded Greg Finan's Field Stand drawings. Thank you very much for posting them!! Also, Thank you Greg Finan if you are still reading this thread. [8D] - K01S
I know this is an old thread but I just down loaded Greg Finan's Field Stand drawings. Thank you very much for posting them!! Also, Thank you Greg Finan if you are still reading this thread. [8D] - K01S
#137
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Can someone send me Greg Finan’s field table plans? I can't seem to get the download to work properly. I'll post a link for it up on my site once I get the file. Thanks.
[email protected]
[email protected]
#138

ORIGINAL: wck3
Can someone send me Greg Finan’s field table plans? I can't seem to get the download to work properly. I'll post a link for it up on my site once I get the file. Thanks.
[email protected]
Can someone send me Greg Finan’s field table plans? I can't seem to get the download to work properly. I'll post a link for it up on my site once I get the file. Thanks.
[email protected]
Sent

#139
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Thanks.
I am hosting it on our club site as well, for those that are having problems like I was.
http://www.farcc.org/Field%20Stand%20Plans.zip
I am hosting it on our club site as well, for those that are having problems like I was.
http://www.farcc.org/Field%20Stand%20Plans.zip
#140

Join Date: Oct 2005
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I had found Greg's plans last fall and purchased some poplar with intentions to build over the winter. Only after bending down to flip a prop this spring did it occurr to actually build one. I've just put the first coat of polyurathane on last night. I made some slight changes in the way the bottom tray latches in. Being a hacker at heart, I'm in the process of re-drawing them digitally with some changes to the origional design. All credits and copyrights will be added as well... Not being a great wood craftsman and lacking the kind of shop that PropWash has, it took me longer than it should of for the first one.
Building all the pieces seperately I was suprised that they all fit together so well! I'm anxious to use it.
I had envisioned a stand with a built in storage. My minds eye can see it having wheels on one set of legs to allow it to be pulled when folded. An added benefit would be to have the cradle able to hold a plane whyle folded. I could load my gear & airplane in the stand and pull it to the field. Heck, why not fashon a place to carry a small folding stool as well !?! At least I can see it in my head...
I'm sure there have been others much more talented than I who have either made modifications to this design or, something more on the lines of my above delusions. I for one would sure like to see em!
Dave
Building all the pieces seperately I was suprised that they all fit together so well! I'm anxious to use it.
I had envisioned a stand with a built in storage. My minds eye can see it having wheels on one set of legs to allow it to be pulled when folded. An added benefit would be to have the cradle able to hold a plane whyle folded. I could load my gear & airplane in the stand and pull it to the field. Heck, why not fashon a place to carry a small folding stool as well !?! At least I can see it in my head...
I'm sure there have been others much more talented than I who have either made modifications to this design or, something more on the lines of my above delusions. I for one would sure like to see em!
Dave
#141

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Rodney,
Do you think you could send me the plans for your stand?
Dave
Do you think you could send me the plans for your stand?
Dave
ORIGINAL: Rodney
Prop nut, those plans were some I designed and they were published in RCM a few years back.
Prop nut, those plans were some I designed and they were published in RCM a few years back.
#144
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This is what I use for a [link=http://media.putfile.com/Plane-stand] field stand[/link]. I make them out of 3/4" sch 40 PVC pipe, and have been selling them locally. As a matter of fact, I sold two more today. They work great, and are fully collapsible. Of course, they don't have the shelves, that the wood ones do.
Later,
Omaha
Later,
Omaha
#146
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I've been selling them for $25.00 each. Sorry, I don't have any drawings.
They are:
25" long
18" wide @ the base
33 1/2" tall to where the bottom of the fuse rests.
Later,
Omaha
They are:
25" long
18" wide @ the base
33 1/2" tall to where the bottom of the fuse rests.
Later,
Omaha
#147


All of these field stands look great.
I have a back yard stand.
No fences are allowed and no "unsightly" stuff allowed in the yard.
So....
One Wallmart Card table
One piece of plywood
Four pieces of 2 inch diameter pvc pipe that are about 10 inches long.
Caps for all 4 pieces.
Fasten plywood to table with 4 or 5 bolts.
Fasten "O" (or "EYE") bolts to plywood where landing gear of model will be when testing.
Drive pvc pipe into ground where table legs will be going.
Remove pipe and knock dirt out of it.
Put pipe back into ground.
Set table legs into pipes.
Purchase two 1/2 inch rods and put pipe insulation or swimming pool toy around it.
Drill 2 holes where horizontal stab leading edge will be on table.
Put rods thru holes and tap a couple inches deep into soil.
Fasten aircraft landing gear with bungies attached to "O" (or "EYE") bolts.
Place tools or radio on side of bench.
I use a white paint bucket for my seat when working on the engine and when starting it at idle.
After testing, remove table, put caps on pipes so that trash or dirt wont fill the pipes.
Fold table and place in garage.
Thus far I have tested only 45 size engines. The stand is as solid as a rock and the bungie cords do not stretch at all even at full throttle.
I have a back yard stand.
No fences are allowed and no "unsightly" stuff allowed in the yard.
So....
One Wallmart Card table
One piece of plywood
Four pieces of 2 inch diameter pvc pipe that are about 10 inches long.
Caps for all 4 pieces.
Fasten plywood to table with 4 or 5 bolts.
Fasten "O" (or "EYE") bolts to plywood where landing gear of model will be when testing.
Drive pvc pipe into ground where table legs will be going.
Remove pipe and knock dirt out of it.
Put pipe back into ground.
Set table legs into pipes.
Purchase two 1/2 inch rods and put pipe insulation or swimming pool toy around it.
Drill 2 holes where horizontal stab leading edge will be on table.
Put rods thru holes and tap a couple inches deep into soil.
Fasten aircraft landing gear with bungies attached to "O" (or "EYE") bolts.
Place tools or radio on side of bench.
I use a white paint bucket for my seat when working on the engine and when starting it at idle.
After testing, remove table, put caps on pipes so that trash or dirt wont fill the pipes.
Fold table and place in garage.
Thus far I have tested only 45 size engines. The stand is as solid as a rock and the bungie cords do not stretch at all even at full throttle.
#149
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ORIGINAL: jasonkim514
What about this place. Checkout the gallery for nice looking photos of it. [link=http://www.rcpatternsdirect.com]www.rcpatternsdirect.com[/link]
What about this place. Checkout the gallery for nice looking photos of it. [link=http://www.rcpatternsdirect.com]www.rcpatternsdirect.com[/link]
Later,
Omaha
#150
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Thanks wck3 alot for posting the plans. One question though? gfinan stated that he made some changes to the plans. Do these have the changes? Thanks
If anyone has the revisions and would be kind enough to send to [email protected] I would sure appreciate it.
Thanks....
If anyone has the revisions and would be kind enough to send to [email protected] I would sure appreciate it.
Thanks....