Krylon paint
#1
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From: Graham,
NC
I have just finished a giant scale Champ covered with Super Coverite and painted with Krylon.
I intended to install a gas engine but have decided to use a four stoke for more scale sound and less weight. Can anyone advise a clear coat that is fuel proof that will go over Krylon ? Will probably use 10% fuel.
Thanks
Paul
I intended to install a gas engine but have decided to use a four stoke for more scale sound and less weight. Can anyone advise a clear coat that is fuel proof that will go over Krylon ? Will probably use 10% fuel.
Thanks
Paul
#3

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I've had better luck with Rustoleum. Every color I've used has been fuel proof (I use 15%). Rustoleum's clear coat (I believe it's called Crystal Clear) is better than Krylon's clear coat because it doesn't turn yellow. At least, it hasn't turned on me in 2+ years.
Just my opinon though.
Nonetheless, whatever you try, test it on something other than your Champ.
Mike
Just my opinon though.
Nonetheless, whatever you try, test it on something other than your Champ.
Mike
#4
Senior Member
When using Rustoleum, remember that you need to leave it cure for a week or two before it becomes fuel proof, maybe even longer if not in a warm curing area.
#5
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If you want to be certain it is FUEL PROOF, use Lusterkote or Ultracote (preffered ) clear OR an automotive clear coat. Definitely test it on a test panel first to be sure of compatibility with the Krylon. I have used Ultracote clear over Krylon before with no problems.
For Fuel Resistant (up to 15% ) I have used (and still do use ) MinWax Polycrylic (water base ).
What I have found with this is to use 2 coats and let it dry for A MINIMUM of a week before exposing it to fuel. As long as you clean the plane at the end of the day you will be OK, but if you let the residue sit more than 5 or 6 hours the clear will start to soften. I also receive the impression it becomes more fuel resistant with age. I accidently missed an area on a plane and did not find it until the next day - the finish had not softened. This plane was about 20 months old at the time.
The big advantage to the water base (besides being cheap ) is that it does not yellow with age.
For Fuel Resistant (up to 15% ) I have used (and still do use ) MinWax Polycrylic (water base ).
What I have found with this is to use 2 coats and let it dry for A MINIMUM of a week before exposing it to fuel. As long as you clean the plane at the end of the day you will be OK, but if you let the residue sit more than 5 or 6 hours the clear will start to soften. I also receive the impression it becomes more fuel resistant with age. I accidently missed an area on a plane and did not find it until the next day - the finish had not softened. This plane was about 20 months old at the time.
The big advantage to the water base (besides being cheap ) is that it does not yellow with age.
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From: Payson,
AZ
Lustrekote Crystal Clear, which I use, will eat its way through Krylon and Rustoleum if applied before the color coat has had at least a week to dry. It must then be applied in two very thin dust coats about a day apart. Good up to about 15 or 20% nitro. Be sure you get the CRYSTAL clear. It will not yellow. Regular clear is actually a bit cloudy.
#7
Krylon and Rustoleum clear cote is not fuel proof. I have no idea what fuel proof clear cote would be compatable with Krylon, however I would think a water soluble polyurethane such as Nelson's would do the job. A mineral spirit based poly such as used for wood varnish may also work. I would stay away from anything that smells of toulene or acetone. Be sure to test a small unseen area first.




