Hi
I have a TP P51 Gold, i wonder how you do weathering on it to make it look old..
Do anyone no something about this please help me.

/ Lars P

Fly it a bunch

Thanks, then i hanve to fly it like for 20 yers or so. :-)

The weathering technique that one will use is dependent
on what finish is applied to the plane. Paint or film ?

I can suggest several tips if you are going to paint .

Maybe someone else can help you with the film .


Regards
Roby

It´s for both paint and film.

I will be glad if you can help me with tips om paint.
Regards
Lars

If all you want to do is flatten the shiny paint to look "old"
Mask the canopy off, then give the whole plane a "mist" coat
of gray paint that is highly thinned, and sprayed at a higher than normal pressure. This in itself will make the paint seem aged.

And /or get a plastic model of the subject so you can locate
panel lines etc,then lightly draw them on the plane with a
pencil . Get some drafting tape and some graphite.

Always keep in mind how the air flows over the airframe.

Put the tape on the leading edge of the pencil mark.
Very carefully .place a small amount of graphite on the
tape in several locations. Use a cotton ball and lightly
drag the graphite off the tape onto the surface. This will
produce a shadow effect. With some practice this can be made
to work well . I strongly advise that you don't try this for
the 1st time on your new scale model . Get the technique
worked out on a test plane . When your happy with the
results then do your front line model .

This should at least get you started


Best regards,
good luck

Roby

Here is the way top gun winners weather their planes. First your plane must be painted with a two part paint system that after the paint cures it is unaffected by its own solvent. Most automobile paint fall in this category. LET YOUR PAINT COMPLETELY DRY. Now mix a small amount of dark brown paint (color of motor oil mixed with dirt) . start with wings and spray a mist on one wing panel let it set for few minute then get some paper towel folded into a small square dampened with your paint system solvent and start taking off the paint in a single straight wipes chord wise . what this does leave a small amount of paint behind the rivets and panel lines etc. Do the same for fuse but this time it is from top to bottom wiping motion simulating left in the rain effect. My be good for your next project

what Foxx refers to is Dave Platt's system that he used with the old two part Hobby Poxy. Many of the Top Gun planes use two part PPG which does not allow for this. The system has a quick drying base coat which cannot take thinners, and is ultimately covered by clear coat. using pastels is a viable alternative, you take a small piece of pastel and turn it into powder, it can then be wiped into joints or used to tone panels. Airbrush misting can also be used to tone panels or create soot and weather effects. For bare metal on panel line joints, you can use Rub n buff a candle making product. When the weathering is complete you cover with clear coat. Additional panel toning can be done over clearcoat by masking off panels and using fine grade steel wool or scotchbrite.
Mike

Thank you all for your answer, it helpt me very much.
Best regards
Lars P

When using the Dave Platt wash effect on PPG Concept, use an enamel for the wash (such as Model Master) and use mineral spirits as the thinner. Mineral spirits will not affect the fresh PPG. Also, mineral spirits is good for removing the panel line tape residue from PPG. Concept can be used as a one part color (no clearcoat) for painting on your markings, etc, and is not affected by glow fuel. The only time a clearcoat, with Concept, is required is if a wash is used that is not glow proof (such as the Model Master). Good luck, Greg

Mike you are right about the Dave Platt system. He used K&B product exclusively but now that the K&B manufacturing is put out of business by the people's republic of california we need to find new sources. I am not familiar with PPG system but I don't want to spary my plane with clear coat because now have defeted the whole weathering process. I bought my paint from my local Auto & body shop , a two part system and it worked great. My Texan has only few flights on it but to the eyes of untrained people it looks at least 30Yr old and been in and out of hell few times . I can get paint's brand name if is necessary.

Foxx

The PPG Concept system is a y2K 2 component finish and does not require a clear coat (although one is available). Dupont Chroma system is very similar but I have found that PPG has a larger selection of additives available.

If you want to use a wash with PPG that is not fuel proof, then you can use a clear-coat and simply use your steel wool or other technique afterwards.

If allowed to cure completely, PPG will become impervious to its own reducers, acetone, etc.

I was wondering why K&B was discontinued so soon after being reintroduced, I guess everything is bad for you in good ole' California

Thanks Greg,

My paint was made by a German company, subsidiary of BASF.
After it cured for a day I flooded it with its own solvent and it did not even softened . Guess PPG works fine since everybody using it and I will give it a try sometimes. I heard the State of California decided that all K$B products were cancer causing agents and can be sold to public. Off course as you know Bill Bennett AKA Mr. Sahara (TOC) bought the company and tried to revive it but did it did not work out and he sold it. I would be interested if any body can shed some more light on this.

Foxx

I wasn't aware that K&B went totally out of business. I ,too, would like to know what the low down is . I have used their resin and paints for ever, now we can't even get the resin.

It took me a while to figure out everything about the PPG system. Once I did, however, I have come to like it more than the Hobbypoxy or K&B as you can do a lot more with it. The only bad thing is that you have to buy in larger quantities

Regards, Greg

I have used the Dave Platt method with latex paint. After the latex has dried, use steel wool to wear down the paint. Instead of using solvents, I used Windex to wipe off the wash and create a faded and streaked appearance. The washes were created by thinning latex paint. I then clear coated the plane with Nelson Hobby flat clear. I did not have to contend with the toxic fumes form auto paint or the epoxy paint that Dave uses. This method has been used successfully by Top Gun contestant Roy Valliancourt and it is a heck of a lot cheaper than automotive paint. Plus you do not have to spend a small fortune on the equipment needed to spray automotive paint. Total cost to paint the 1/6 scale P-47 in the picture was around $35.

Here is a close up.

Kirk,

You have a nice looking model. I am confused however. I have been in the refinishing business for over 30 years and the spray guns for latex based and solvent based automotive paints are the same (with the possible exception of using a larger needle/tip combination for the latex). What is the price difference for automotive paint equipment you are referring to?

gfinan:

I looked at the prices of automotive touch up spray guns at the local automotive paint store. They wanted $215 for the cheapest touch up gun. I went to Lowes and purchased a touch up gun for under $30. Also, when spraying latex, I can spray it in my basement without having to use a ventilation system that should be used with automotive paints. I just use a fan to draw air out the window. I do not have to use protective clothing to protect my skin from the harmful solvents used with automotive paints. The cost of automotive paint is very expensive when compared to latex. Add all of this up, and it can get quite expensive to spray automotive paint. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying latex is better. There are certain applications where latex would not work; like when a high gloss finish is desired. All I am saying is that in the right application a quality finish can be produced using latex at a fraction of the cost of using automotive paint and without being the hazard to your health like automotive paint.

I spray my planes with IWATA HP-C Airbrush .To my experience most bigger spray gun want to spary a heavy coat which might be good for Auto applications but not for models. Here I spay a thin coat and build on it, becuase I don't want to cover the surface details also have total control . Kirk what is your experience in this regard with Latex paint

Kirk

To be quite honest, I do use the $300-$400 guns at work. But for most of my modeling I use the same gun that you bought at Lowe's. They will spray auto paint just fine. The only time that you really need protective clothing is when you are spraying a large volume of paint in an enclosed environment (such as cars in a spray booth). As far as the fumes go, you are right, I would recommend using a respirator with the solvent based finishes. Actually, I would recommend a respirator for any paint that is atomized through a spray gun.

I agree with you on price, latex is a lot less expensive. The clean-up is a lot easier too. I just prefer the automotive type of finishes as they are more durable, fuel proof, etc.

Foxx:

I thin the latex about 20% or so. Some colors need to be thinned more than others. I spray it on in light coats. The first coat only leaves a light coloring. I keep spraying light coats until everything is covered. On cool days, I use a hair dyer between coats get to help kick off the surface drying. The trick to latex is patience. It takes a couple of days to a week before it fully dries. I usually wait a week or so before I mask it off for a different color. I also wait about two weeks or so after all colors have been painted, then I take steel wool to it to start the weathering process.

I will have an olivedrab flat finish on a heli that I am designing. Will latex stand up to Jet-A ?what paint will ?

Guardian

I know that K&B, Hobby-poxy, And PPG will handle the Jet A, but I don't know about the latex. I would think that Jet A would be more likely to stain the surface of the latex.

Guardian:

Latex alone will not hold up to Jet A or any glow fuel. It needs to be clear coated to be fuel proof for glow fuels. Contact Jerry at Nelson Hobby to check if the clear coat he sells is fuel proof to Jet A. If it is, then you should have no problem using latex. If it isn't then use K&B, Hobby-poxy, or PPG.