COving/Finish on a Kit Build
#1
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From: Staten Island,
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Good morning everyone...
Moving ahead with my SBD Dauntless build. Waiting to complete the lower wing section and complete the Retract instillation. I am using the Spring Airs and have to hook the whole system up to get the to Close.
So I have moved onto the fuselage.
Since I plane ahead, and like to have as many of my materials at hand, I am thinking now about the covering. I was originally planing to Epoxy Resin and Fiberglass the plane. I then read about using Minwax PolyC and it seems ALOT easier. I also bough from Tower Hobbies the Dave Brown Skyloft, which is a Nylon Substitute for the Fiberglass. Has anyone worked with it?? reviews?
My question today is, do I need to use a sander sealer on the wood first prior to applying the PolyC?
I had read that using a Cellulose Sanding Sealer would be a good thing. Is this true? I have only found it available via Mail Order and made by a company called MYLANDS. I have not been able to find it in Home Depot.. I have not checked Lowes, but probably would be the same result. Shouldnt 1-2 coats of the PolyC applies first then putting the Skyloft work the same???
Any and all advise and help are appreciated.
Thank You in advance...
Gary...
Moving ahead with my SBD Dauntless build. Waiting to complete the lower wing section and complete the Retract instillation. I am using the Spring Airs and have to hook the whole system up to get the to Close.
So I have moved onto the fuselage.
Since I plane ahead, and like to have as many of my materials at hand, I am thinking now about the covering. I was originally planing to Epoxy Resin and Fiberglass the plane. I then read about using Minwax PolyC and it seems ALOT easier. I also bough from Tower Hobbies the Dave Brown Skyloft, which is a Nylon Substitute for the Fiberglass. Has anyone worked with it?? reviews?
My question today is, do I need to use a sander sealer on the wood first prior to applying the PolyC?
I had read that using a Cellulose Sanding Sealer would be a good thing. Is this true? I have only found it available via Mail Order and made by a company called MYLANDS. I have not been able to find it in Home Depot.. I have not checked Lowes, but probably would be the same result. Shouldnt 1-2 coats of the PolyC applies first then putting the Skyloft work the same???
Any and all advise and help are appreciated.
Thank You in advance...
Gary...
#2
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Failure to use a sanding sealer on bare wood prior to painting guarantees two things.
#1- The wood will absorb a lot more paint than it needs to provide the finish, making it a lot heavier that it need to be, and
#2- Obtaining a smooth finish in the paint will be next to impossible unless you build up a 1/16" layer of paint that can be sanded down to eliminate the wood grain and other imperfections.
Short answer is yes, a sealer should first be used.
In the old days we mixed talcum powder with clear dope to make our own sealer, but I don't know if your choice of finish and dope will be compatible.
#1- The wood will absorb a lot more paint than it needs to provide the finish, making it a lot heavier that it need to be, and
#2- Obtaining a smooth finish in the paint will be next to impossible unless you build up a 1/16" layer of paint that can be sanded down to eliminate the wood grain and other imperfections.
Short answer is yes, a sealer should first be used.
In the old days we mixed talcum powder with clear dope to make our own sealer, but I don't know if your choice of finish and dope will be compatible.
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From: Staten Island,
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Thank you Silver and Campy...
Campy.. The instructions are Great. I assume I should not use then the water based sander sealer, but the Oilbased? Correct?
The Minwax Sander sealer in the Yellow Can does nto say if it is Water or Oil Based, will have to check their Website. OR should I order the Cellulose Sander sealer, which might be better?
As for the Microballons, I have seen a thread on the Net where some thined Spacle-Light with the PolyC to the Constancy of Paint, and then applied that instead of using Microballons. Said it was as tough as shoe leather... I might experiment with this on an extra piece and see what happens.
Have a great weekend.
Gary...
Campy.. The instructions are Great. I assume I should not use then the water based sander sealer, but the Oilbased? Correct?
The Minwax Sander sealer in the Yellow Can does nto say if it is Water or Oil Based, will have to check their Website. OR should I order the Cellulose Sander sealer, which might be better?
As for the Microballons, I have seen a thread on the Net where some thined Spacle-Light with the PolyC to the Constancy of Paint, and then applied that instead of using Microballons. Said it was as tough as shoe leather... I might experiment with this on an extra piece and see what happens.
Have a great weekend.
Gary...
#5
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My Feedback: (1)
ORIGINAL: rnrdoc
Thank you Silver and Campy...
Campy.. The instructions are Great. I assume I should not use then the water based sander sealer, but the Oilbased? Correct?
>I would think an oil base sanding sealer would be more
>advantagiou than a water base sealer.
The Minwax Sander sealer in the Yellow Can does nto say if it is Water or Oil Based, will have to check their Website. OR should I order the Cellulose Sander sealer, which might be better?
>I used the Minwax sealer with the yellow label. I THINK it is an
>oil base sealer.
As for the Microballons, I have seen a thread on the Net where some thined Spacle-Light with the PolyC to the Constancy of Paint, and then applied that instead of using Microballons. Said it was as tough as shoe leather... I might experiment with this on an extra piece and see what happens.
>I have not heard of this before. Before you do a "tough as shoe
>leather", consider - all you are trying to do is fill the weave of the
>fiberglass. THEN you have to sand it smooth. The "tough as leather"
>may work very well. How is the weight compared to micro balloons ?
Have a great weekend.
Gary...
Thank you Silver and Campy...
Campy.. The instructions are Great. I assume I should not use then the water based sander sealer, but the Oilbased? Correct?
>I would think an oil base sanding sealer would be more
>advantagiou than a water base sealer.
The Minwax Sander sealer in the Yellow Can does nto say if it is Water or Oil Based, will have to check their Website. OR should I order the Cellulose Sander sealer, which might be better?
>I used the Minwax sealer with the yellow label. I THINK it is an
>oil base sealer.
As for the Microballons, I have seen a thread on the Net where some thined Spacle-Light with the PolyC to the Constancy of Paint, and then applied that instead of using Microballons. Said it was as tough as shoe leather... I might experiment with this on an extra piece and see what happens.
>I have not heard of this before. Before you do a "tough as shoe
>leather", consider - all you are trying to do is fill the weave of the
>fiberglass. THEN you have to sand it smooth. The "tough as leather"
>may work very well. How is the weight compared to micro balloons ?
Have a great weekend.
Gary...
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From: Staten Island,
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Campy,
Here is the Link http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/index.php?topic=6889.210
It does not state how the weight copairs, but I cant see it being that much heavier, it it is heavier at all them MIcroBallons.
Plus the ease of Use and cost are fantastic.
Gary...
Here is the Link http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/index.php?topic=6889.210
It does not state how the weight copairs, but I cant see it being that much heavier, it it is heavier at all them MIcroBallons.
Plus the ease of Use and cost are fantastic.
Gary...
#7
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Checked the link out. This looks quite interesting.
Problem though - Google can not provide a place to buy Polyfilla here in the states. Apparantly you can get it just about anywhere in Europe though.
Any ideas on where to buy some, short of having it sent over from Europe ?
Problem though - Google can not provide a place to buy Polyfilla here in the states. Apparantly you can get it just about anywhere in Europe though.
Any ideas on where to buy some, short of having it sent over from Europe ?



