How to install phenolic sockets in built up wing
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From: NY
I am new to giants and I am going to be starting a TF giant mustang and am trying to figure out how I can make it easier to transport. I was thinking of removable horizontal stabs and 2 piece or even 3 piece wing. The wing and stabs are all built up. Where can i find information or how to install aluminum wing tubes and phenolic sockets??And what size tudes will i need for this 84" span model?? I am confused on how to attach the phenolic sockets to the spars?? Thanks
Nate
Nate
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From: Houston, TX
Nate,
I have not made this conversion on a P-51, so I can't get specific on that design. I have done the same thing on another plane though. My guess is that a 3 piece design would be best. If your transport will allow, you could leave the center section attached and the gear down, limiting the connections needed during rig-up. It will also put the the joining tube away from the dihedral, which can be a problem.
When I added the wing tube, I cut oversized holes in the ribs where the tube (socket) passed. I also cut a series of light-ply donuts to fix the socket to the ribs when the alignment was right. Built everything up and with the sockets and tubes in place. Confirmed the wing was true, then started aligning the tube how I wanted it (donut loosely in place already) and started gluing the donuts to the ribs and sockets. I would recommed the larges tube and socket that will reasonably fit in the wing. On my bird, I used a second tube and socket in the rear for assembly alignment. If you do that you have to assure that the tubes are parallel or assembly is difficult to impossible.
The point of highest stress is the mating surface between the wing sections. I included a plywood rib at this point, on both surfaces to distribute the loads throughout the wing.
Others may have a simpler or better approach, but this worked for me and my bird.
Good luck!
Bedford
I have not made this conversion on a P-51, so I can't get specific on that design. I have done the same thing on another plane though. My guess is that a 3 piece design would be best. If your transport will allow, you could leave the center section attached and the gear down, limiting the connections needed during rig-up. It will also put the the joining tube away from the dihedral, which can be a problem.
When I added the wing tube, I cut oversized holes in the ribs where the tube (socket) passed. I also cut a series of light-ply donuts to fix the socket to the ribs when the alignment was right. Built everything up and with the sockets and tubes in place. Confirmed the wing was true, then started aligning the tube how I wanted it (donut loosely in place already) and started gluing the donuts to the ribs and sockets. I would recommed the larges tube and socket that will reasonably fit in the wing. On my bird, I used a second tube and socket in the rear for assembly alignment. If you do that you have to assure that the tubes are parallel or assembly is difficult to impossible.
The point of highest stress is the mating surface between the wing sections. I included a plywood rib at this point, on both surfaces to distribute the loads throughout the wing.
Others may have a simpler or better approach, but this worked for me and my bird.
Good luck!
Bedford
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What if I put plywood between the top and bottom spars and drill holes so the socket will fit right in the middle??? Sort of like you would reinforce the front wing rib if you were installing retracts? Would this work??? Thanks Guys
Nate
Nate
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From: Houston, TX
Nate,
I didn't attach the wing tube to anything, other than in the center with a bit of squeeze to keep in from pushing out when I install the wing halfs (like pattern planes). If you put covers over the socket ends you will keep the tube from drifting out of position. The tube takes its load in shear and bending. The wing panel then needs to be fixed to its mate. I do this with a pair of bolts across the mating plywood ribs. You might need to be a little inventive to keep these hidden in a three section design (through gear openings?).
Mike,
I agree. That is why I have the ply rib at the mating surface. Further support between the socket and the spars may be needed at the outer ends, particularly if the socket/tube is offset from the spars. Intermediate rib to spar support is not necessary otherwise.
Have fun!
Bedford
I didn't attach the wing tube to anything, other than in the center with a bit of squeeze to keep in from pushing out when I install the wing halfs (like pattern planes). If you put covers over the socket ends you will keep the tube from drifting out of position. The tube takes its load in shear and bending. The wing panel then needs to be fixed to its mate. I do this with a pair of bolts across the mating plywood ribs. You might need to be a little inventive to keep these hidden in a three section design (through gear openings?).
Mike,
I agree. That is why I have the ply rib at the mating surface. Further support between the socket and the spars may be needed at the outer ends, particularly if the socket/tube is offset from the spars. Intermediate rib to spar support is not necessary otherwise.
Have fun!
Bedford
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From: groveton,
NH
Am getting ready to build my Ziroli P-51 from scratch. W/ a 96" wing I want to have a three piece wing for easy transport. Found a great site from another post, gator rc.com with tubes and diagrams. Good luck, ken



