Home made tool. I believe I saw this tool in a magazine many years ago. It is used to screw in the threaded rod into the end of a Nyrod Plastic push/pull control rod. The photo shows a plastic wire nut (yellow), a steel clevis, and a short piece of threaded rod in the clevis. The threaded rod is threaded into the clevis so about 5 threads are left empty. The plastic nut is filled with epoxy. Every time I use it I marvel at the simplicity of the tool. A difficult job is made easy.

very good idea think I will coppy it thank you

I chuck the threaded rod halfway into my hand drill and then hold the Nyrod with a pair of pliers and spin the rod into the Nyrod very quickly with the electric drill. Seems easier and quicker to me.

How about showing us other tools out there? Even a picture of your workshop would be nice. I have seen some incredible models come from a crowded 1 car garage or a one bedroom apartment. Craftsmen are rarely limited, it just breeds more creativeness.

doesent the drill chuck mess up the threads?

I make an incedence meter. Cost about $5. Just as accurate as the robart I have.
Edwin

This is probibly a no-brainer for anyone who has built at least one model.
I use a variety of wood chunks in various shapes and adhere course sandpaper to them for sanding blocks.
I have T-Bar sanders that are long and narrow, short and wide and all sizes in between.
A variety of dowel rods about 6" - 8" long wrapped with 60 grit. I use medium - thick CA to stick the sandpaper on adding a bead every 1/4" or so as I roll the dowel.
I used an exacto sanding block as a template and made 4 more. I use different grits on each...
One of my favorites is a 1" X 1" X 6" block of pine with different grits glued to each of the 4 sides. It lays on my bench always!
I use 3M spray adhesive to tack the sandpaper strips to the blocks. Theyre easily pealed off and replaced.
Other than the exacto block, I've never purchased a sanding block...

Here are a couple of my favorite sanders. Just C/A bottles with self adhesive sand paper attached. One is 100 grit and the other is 220. Really handy for shaping fillets. Same tool for large or small fillets.

hehehe!
TLH101,
That is pretty good. I like that. I been using dowels in different diameters.
Edwin

I make tons of tools. Specialty sanders, jigs and fixtures, etc. There are too many unique tasks in model-building for manufacturers to cover all of them.

[link=http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/how_to_articles_for_model_builders/index.htm#tools]Tools You can Make[/link]

Yesterday, I made some fuselage cradles to match the airplane I'm building. I used 3/4" thick pink foamboard. Cut the board on the bandsaw in about 7.348 seconds.... ok..... in under a minute. Just eyeballed the "scoops". Used FoamBoardTackGlue (it looks like Elmers Woodworkers Glue) to glue the upright cradle to the pink foamboard base (the bases are easier to bandsaw... took 6.113 seconds each) and even used some scrap to make stiffening braces.

Chucking the threaded rod into the drill chuck doesn't do anything to the threads.

Truth is, I wish it did. If it would slightly dent them, the clevis would then fit a bit tighter and with less slop.

BTW, I use a piece of SMALL fuel tubing that runs over the end of the clevis and some of the threads. It insures that the clevis is tight on the threads. I still use a small piece of MEDIUM tubing like everyone else does when it's needed.

I did that once......the threaded rod got going too fast, melted through the nyrod and went right into the knuckle of my index finger, of course that was 12 years ago and I havent made that mistake twice

This first one took years to develop. After countless failed attempts I arrived at what I feel to be the perfect tool for marking lines inside fuselages (for servo rails, etc.) and cowls. You will get strange looks when you sharpen it.

The second tool is a one-off that worked perfectly the first time. Luck I guess. It taps threads in wing hold-down blocks for 1/4" nylon wing bolts.

Using strips of credit card to get epoxy in to hinge slots evenly Run the card with epoxy through slots then insert hinges.