I heard somewhere that balsarite doesn't work well with ultracote.Have any of you tried it?

I used the stuff one time before, will never use it again. If you keep your plane long enough you will eventually have to recover it. Balsarite makes getting the covering off a real nightmare IMO. It's OK for using around engine bay openings and such, but do not use it over your entire model. It seems to work OK with UltraCote.

Vince

I have heard that Ultracote recommends NOT using it, and since I use Ultracote, I don't.

Ultracote/Oracover/Profilm (same same same) - as he said - they do not recommend anything on the surface before you cover!

Used it once, never again. Once the sun hits it it will bubble all over and can't reshrink it. Trust me!! I tried it on a very complicated model, and it will more complicated now to recover it some lifetime. Can't see the bubbles flying fast!!

I've never had a problem with Balsarite except that I can't find the film formula anymore.
I did have a problem with Ultracote delaminating the pigment when used over Balsarite but since I try to avoid Ultracot it was never a problem. It has been the best product for getting film to stick to luan ply that there is. Unfortunately I'm looking for a replacement now.

Thanks,
Chris

I havent used it in a while but it sure seemed to me it was nothing much more that thinned clear shellac. (alcohol based clear finish)

I tried it on a flying boat once before monokote covering....never again, what a mess! As ml3456 pointed out, it bubbled showed thru the film. I still use it, say around the perimeter of firewalls where I'm going to wrap the monokote around onto the epoxy resin sealed firewall, as it sticks it down to the epoxy coated surface far better than without.
And Chris300s - The thick Balsarite is all I buy, and I just thin it down to the desired consistency with Nitrate dope thinner. Trust me, it works great. A buddy turned me onto it years ago when we used to use thinned Balsarite on small tissue covered airplanes instead of dope because the balsarite stays a little more pliable and doesn't over shrink the tissue like dope does.

Cheers, Nigel

I agree with most of the above....everytime I used BalsaRite, I wished I hadn't. For the most part, I use nothing, for either Monokote or Ultracote.

But....I will let you in on a helpful hint. Buy a tube of Sigment, the old-fashioned model airplane cement. No other brand. Apply a bead about the size of 1/16" music wire around the edge of your firewall, wheel wells, wing saddles, or other "hard use" places. Smooth it in while it is wet. Let it dry--a couple of minutes, or hours, makes no difference. It will grip the covering without all the bubbles, etc. of BalsaRite, and you will tear the covering before you will get it loose.

You can test this on a piece of 3" wide sheet. Make several Sigment passes across the sheet, marking where they are with a pen. Then iron on some strips that cross untouched wood as well as these places. Let the covering cool a few minutes, then start peeling the covering off. You will see the difference.

Try it--you'll like it!

Thanks guys. The reason I asked is, I'm going to try making wing fillets. And was told that it might be easier to cover the concave fillet if I stuck the monokote down with balsarite. But I plan on covering it with ultracote. I guess the thing to do is make a test fillet. :idea:

I use Balsarite on alot of my planes, and I cover almost exclusively with Ultracote. It works great. I haven't had any of the problems that others have mentioned. I don't cover the whole plane with the stuff, just where I am going to have seams.

I use it to fuelproor the fuel tank compartment. On planes with a lite ply fuselage I use it sparingly along the corners so the monocoat sticks better. Also their are two different types of Balsarite. One for monocoat and another for coverite.

If you're covering an undercambered wing (WW1 or vintage) balsarite works great-have used it many times. I think it was mainly designed for small-area parts like rib caps and stringers. If you use it on a large area, like a balsa sheeted wing, you will hav e the problems discussed above.

I agree with JDHammer. When I commented earlier about not liking it, I was refering to using it over a sheeted area, under monokote. I continue to use balsarite for attaching fabric such as Sig Coverall and it works very well, even over large sheeted areas because of course fabric doesn't trap air like the film covering.

Nigel

Have used Balsarite for a couple decades, under monocote and under 21st Century fabric and film. No problems with bubling, but I only use it around engine openings or other areas where fuel contamination tends to lift the covering. BUT, I only use it very sparingly- very light coats.

Also- Balsarite has been a real help in re-covering old planes that have years of soaked in fuel in the balsa.

I have used it for years on both film and cloth. Works Great. I agree with earlier posts however,,,do not used it over large areas, just in the trouble spots. I use Ultracote almost exclusively now and still use Balsarite around firewalls and edges and around the openings, (servo openings, etc.), No ill effects with UltraCote/Oracover).

Steve

Puckett Model Aviation

I use balsa rite for film under monokote. I use it all over the airplane (typically fully sheeted Top Flite warbirds). I apply it directly from the can (no thinning) using a foam brush. I give it a very light sanding to remove bumps after it's dried.

I iron the monokote down over the entire surface of the aircraft (not just the corners). I use about a 2/3 heat setting on the iron (not too hot, not too cool) with a sock.

The only time I've had bubbles is when I applied a lot of heat GUN heat, so I don't do that anymore. I shrink as I go using the iron, and the stuff holds the monokote like it's welded on. I fly my airplanes all the time, and none of the monokote comes loose like it did before I started using the balsarite. I don't like to "glass and paint" so I try to use monokote for all my colors and trim. I'm attaching a picture of my TF P-39 which has been flying for 3 years, and which has not had a smidgen of let go.

I agree with an earlier post that it's difficult to get it off the airplane, but it seems to me that that's the point-keeping the covering on the airplane.

what a beauty dhable ! I think it's also important to let balsarite dry or cure fully before putting any covering on. any residual solvent may cause bubbling during heating or under hot sun. that's why a thin layer is better.

I have used it with out problem, just keep the coat thin and DON"T use mulitple coats, it is also great for removing old covering when it delaminates while peeling off, just apply to a clean rag and it wipes right off

Hi fastlash, this sound interesting. I could not quite understand your statement. could you kindly clarify it ? do you mean to soak balsarite on a rag and wipe off old balsarite? thanks.......

Alot of times when removing old covering the glue and color delaminate from the clear top suface of the covering, you can put a small amount if balsarite on a rag and wipe away the subborn stuff left behind, you can also use masking tape to remove some of it by sticking it to the spot and tearing it away, don't do the balsarite method of you are going to recover with transparent covering because it will leave some dye residue behind, and it will show thru