Hey guys

For years Ive been using a 1" chromoly sq tube frame welded on a chasis table. The tube interconnect every sq ft for a 3'x8' size with a 3/4 pc of interior ply cut to fit and then anchored with countersunk fastners. I did this so I could replace the work surface easy. Its very flat and has served purpose for years. Im in the middle of building a new stand alone table and am looking for idea. Im thinking about picking up an old billard table and overhauling it for a building table.

Im sure there are many solutions and any ideas would be appreciated. PLUS this is a topic all new builders must address at some time or another.


thanks in advance!

I saw an ad for the Great Planes magnetic buildboard and was intrigued. I later came across Paul Johnsons website at:

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...oard/index.htm

This inspired me to build my own steel topped buildboard. I used a couple of shelving units I alread had for the base, then build the top from 3 sheets of MDF (2 on bottom, 1 on top) with an internal frame made from 2 x 2s. The edge is banded in 1 x 4 and it's all topped with a 4 x 8 sheet of 16 guage cold rolled steel.

See post 162 in the following link.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_13..._7/key_/tm.htm

Scott

Billiard tables tend to be a bit on the massive side. Plus, you'll be in competition with all the billiard players who wouldn't mind having their own table.

OTOH, you could do worse than build a [link=http://home.mindspring.com/~the-plumber/PhotoAlbums/Torsion%20Box%20Building%20Table/index.htm]torsion box building table[/link], which can be taken down and stored upright against a wall if you ever need to recoup floor space.

wow those are pretty involved how about a flat interior door for the top they are cheap.put a level line on a wall screw some hinges to the wall side then screw 2x2 legs to hold it up, when not in use unscrew the legs and the table folds down to the wall saves space when not in use. for pinning cheap ceiling tileswork great the pins slip right in pull out with ease.the key word is CHEAP

Ive seen one pull table rehacked into a building table and all the sides were redone so it took a massive amount of weight and size out. Plus they are fully adjustable. Ive found some in the paper for as low 300.

I just bought two new pieces of butcher block for another project and to my amazement they are not perfectly flat.

The frame work I have now was done one chassis table which was surfaced and its absolutely perfect. However it would need to be redesigned to make a table out of it. The biggest quirk is how I build. I like the table to be perfectly flat and be perfectly level on both axis. I could redo a table design and put some really fine threaded shafts in the legs I guess.


Here is another question for the serious wood worker. My garage is finished out and insulated and has heat and AC. When Im not building its used as a garage. I live in Dallas so in the summer my garage may go from 73* to 110* with 70++ humidity really quickly. What effect would this have on a wood table.

Dallas doesn't have anything on hotLanta in terms of humidity extremes.

My three-year-old torsion box building table is just as flat and square as the day I built it, so the temperature and humidity swings have had no effect. Of course, I did seal all surfaces with thinned epoxy against some dolt spilling who-knows-what on it, so that may have helped.

You might want to consider installing a thermostatically controlled exhaust fan in your garage, and have it come on when the interior temperature exceeds 85 degrees. Doesn't cost much at all to run, and will help your woods and chemicals last a good bit longer.

Cheap, yes.

Durable, no.

Hollow core (interior) doors have all their strength in the perimeter frame. Given time, a hollow core door will sag even when properly installed as a door.

When used as a table a hollow core door begins sagging almost immediately because of it's own weight if a support grid isn't used to support the door over it's length and width.

By the time you add enough support structure to keep a hollow core door flat for even a few months, you could have built a torsion box table. IIRC I spent about $45 or so on my table including the support structure.

Hi,

There are as many buildung solutions as there are builders, space and spouse limitations notwithstanding. What works for me is an old steel desk covered with a sheet of gyprock, sheetrock, drywall or whatever plaster board is called in your part of the world.

The desk is flat, cost me nothing and the steel allows the use of magnets as recommended by Paul Johnson, Saramos et al. The qyprock takes pins well and after many builds can be turned over to a brand new surface and is cheap.

In my case I would have to "restump the shed" to take a billiard table but I'm sure this solution would work for some.

Cheers,

Colin

I was able to pick up 5 pieces of slate for free from a billard table. I used two pieces for a workbench with homasote on top for sticking pins in. The table was very flat. But those two pieces of slate probably weighed close to 300lbs each easy. I used 2" angle iron and 2x4 braces for legs. It made for a great work table but it was set up in my fathers basement and he sold his house to go RV'ing for his retirement. I had 4 guys come and look at moving the two slates out of the basement and we decieded against it. To heavy to move so the table stayed with the house.

edit: changed that to 2" angle iron 1/4" thick.

grinder.

I built a torsion box work bench (2ftx4ft) using 3/8" plywood almost 10 years ago. Its still as flat today as it was then. Its also very light. When the top eventually gets to beat up to use, I'll just sand it down, coat it with another coat of polyurethane, and be off the races for the next 15 years.

Brad

My worktable uses a 2 x 4 frame with 3/4" ply, good both sides (that's what they called it at the lumberyard). The frame was built as straight as possible. Then the 3/4" ply top was levelled by shimming underneath as needed. It's been dead-level and flat for 15 years...and I check it at least once per year...I've used it for models and my RV-9 project. The big 'uns need a flat worksurface, too.

How about some pictures of these tables guys?

http://home.mindspring.com/~the-plum...able/index.htm

Here's a recent photo.

Scott

The torsion box looks like a great building table. Unfortunately, I don't have the tools or know how to build one. Is there anyone in Southern California willing to build one? If so, let me know what you would charge. I don't have a lot of cash, but would be willing to pay for a nice building table.

Thanks in advance,

Kevin

Well after reading this topic and studing Airfield Models Website I finnally decided on a magnetic building table. So a few weeks of work and its all done.

3' x 8' 14 gauge steel top, mounted to a torsion box to make everything straight and true. It weighs a ton, but if I need to rebuild a large block Chevy, I'm set.

Now to make some magnet fixtures, for building.

Jeff

Jeff,

Beautiful job on the table. How'd you attach the metal to the torsion box? I assume some sort of adhesive...

Actually no, When I layed the steel on the torsion box it laid down smooth like an Army sheet.

I built the Box to exactly 3' x 8' and had the steel cut to those dimensions.

After I sanded the steel smooth, I then banded the box with 1 x 6 Oak. I left the oak a little proud of the steel, then routered it with a flush trim bit w/bearing to make it all level. The oak has the steel locked into place so that it won't move.

This way if I ever want to switch to glass I can pull the steel out with a large magnet and drop a piece of glass in.

Jeff

Gotcha'. As I said, great looking table; sure you'll appreciate the time spent to build it.

I'd like to see the finished product of some of your planes - if you put that quality of work in the workbench! VERY NICE job indeed!

You put some great craftmenship into that table. I'm sure it'll give you years of good service.

Scott

What?!! No dovetailed corners?!!! Looks great, you have got me thinking. (My wife would be astounded to hear that after all these years...I am thinking)

I just got a solid core door today. It weighs a ton, but it was free. I am thinking about mounting it to the wall. Fold down to use, fold up to store. Not as high tech as some of the others out there.

I have used a solid core door for years, and even that will warp over time. It needs to be supported just like anything else.

I am going to build a tortion box this winter.

Dave

How would you support it????

Maybe build a box out of 2x4's. I am still in the planing stages.[8D]