A new problem with Lustercoat. Please advise...
#1
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From: Blythewood,
SC
Hi all,
I have used LC Flat Clear over Createx Auto Air for all my scale birds for years without problems. Yesterday I encountered something intriging! After application of LC and allowed few hours to dry, I did a pass of heat gun to tighten things up and to my horror, the paint starts to blister badly! Reheat and trying to even the bumps out with my fingers do no avail. In the past, I have reshrunk covering with heat gun over Lustercoat Clear Flat without problems but now looks like I have to strip the LC layer with Acetone then repaint. The blistering is from the LC layer, not the Createx layer as this is the high heat automotive paint. Any thoughts? DP
I have used LC Flat Clear over Createx Auto Air for all my scale birds for years without problems. Yesterday I encountered something intriging! After application of LC and allowed few hours to dry, I did a pass of heat gun to tighten things up and to my horror, the paint starts to blister badly! Reheat and trying to even the bumps out with my fingers do no avail. In the past, I have reshrunk covering with heat gun over Lustercoat Clear Flat without problems but now looks like I have to strip the LC layer with Acetone then repaint. The blistering is from the LC layer, not the Createx layer as this is the high heat automotive paint. Any thoughts? DP
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From: Leesburg,
IN
After application of LC and allowed few hours to dry, I did a pass of heat gun
It's also possible that the color coat you mention hadn't yet fully cured before you put the Lustrekote on, making the situation even worse as an incompletely cured color coat will cause problems for the top coat adhesion, and the top coat will keep the color coat from curing completely.
#3
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Problem #1 - you are using Lustercrap. Lustercote is a lacquer based paint so you need to careful with compatibility.
Problem #2 Lusterkote needs 72 hours or more to dry.
You may want to consider using a flatner in the paint itself. Automotive paint is USUALLY glow and gasoline fuel proof.
If you don't want to use a flatner, consider using something like MinWax Polycrylic. It is waterbase (does not yellow with age), dries in 24 hours, is glow fuel RESISTANT with the following caveats: 1. Let the poly dry for a minimum of 7 days before exposing to glow fuel. 2. Do not let the residue sit on the finish over 4 hours.
Problem #2 Lusterkote needs 72 hours or more to dry.
You may want to consider using a flatner in the paint itself. Automotive paint is USUALLY glow and gasoline fuel proof.
If you don't want to use a flatner, consider using something like MinWax Polycrylic. It is waterbase (does not yellow with age), dries in 24 hours, is glow fuel RESISTANT with the following caveats: 1. Let the poly dry for a minimum of 7 days before exposing to glow fuel. 2. Do not let the residue sit on the finish over 4 hours.
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From: Huber Heights,
OH
I only use Lusterkote to paint inside my engine compartments. Ruined 3 cowls I had to replace by that stuff. Blistered, cracked peeled. Had the fiberglass cleaned very cleanly and still terrible results. I have used the Hangar 9 paint with very good results. Not sure who makes the Hangar 9, but you can tell there is a difference.



