I am looking for some techniques for covering on an open framework wing. I am proficient with film covering but most planes have been over sheeted foam. The fuselage also has open cutouts on the lite-ply sides. I will be using Ultracote most likely. I would like a color design that passes through open areas so I am concerned.

How wide of a second color can be applied safely minimizing bubbles?
Is there any benefit to putting small pin***** holes in the surface to be covered?
I am using contest grade balsa for the lightweight so would I be a head to just sheet the entire wing?
Is there any advantage to covering the base color with Monokote then trimming with Ultracote for the lower temp?

Any other tips you feel might help would be appreciated.

Go ahead and use UC. Don't sheet the openings. Allow for a 3/4 to 1" overlap in the covering layers and you shouldn't have any problem getting them to stick, just make sure your temp is low enough to avoid shrinkage until you're ready to shrink it.

Some people like to iron the sections together on a piece of glass ahead of time, then removing it from the glass and applying it to the wing in one piece. I don't find that necessary, but to each his own.

If you're applying a trim that isn't wide enough to warrant a cut-out underneath, but wide enough to make bubbles a concern, then yes, lots (and I mean LOTS) of pinholes will work wonders.

Refer to all the assistance available under "Covering Materials & Instructions (see also Colours & Visibility above)" at
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~atong/
especially "two colour covering" by Howard Sullivan
http://webpages.charter.net/rcfu/Hel...TwoClrCvr.html

regards
Alan T.

Good Stuff. Thanks guys

hi did you manage to find any tips on covering i am haveing the same challenges

First off I use Ultracote exclusively. I have done several covering schemes where the film seams did not follow the structure of the component being covered. In these cases I construct a single sheet, or panel, of covering made up of several pieces of covering and cover as usual.

Cut the panel pieces: I build the covering "panel" on a large piece of glass (ex bedroom door mirror). The individual pieces are cut and laid out on the mirror. Account for 1/4" or more overlap and cut the next piece. Use patterns made of heavy construction paper if needed.

Join the panel pieces: With all of the pieces of covering cut, start with the piece that will be positioned towards the rear first. Lay it out flat on the mirror and tack it to the glass with a warm iron (just enough to activate the glue). Don't worry, once the adhesive is cool, the covering will easily peel up from the glass. Lay the next piece overlapping the first by 1/4". Carefully heat the overlap with a warm iron - keeping the panels flat. Continue until the panel is completed.

Cure the panel pieces' seams: When the tacking is completed go over all of the seams with a hotter iron (but NOT shrinking hot) to fully activate the adhesive. Wait until cool.

Remove the panel: Peel the completed panel from the glass.

Cover with the panel: When covering the plane's surface treat the entire panel as a single sheet of covering. Caution, don't stretch the heck out of it. And, when shrinking with a heat gun, using light cardboard to shelter the seams.

Pic 1 - finished - wings, fuse &tail are all panels
Pic 2 - assembled wing top panel (not tacked yet)- checking for fit
Pic 3 &4 - pre-assembly positioning of panels
Pic 5 - wing bottom panel components
Pic 6 - wing bottom panel tacked on mirror
Pic 7 - covered wing top