sheeted plane primer
03-03-2003 | 01:58 AM
#2
My Feedback: (8)
sheeted plane primer
If you have not fiberglassed over the sheeting, using a primer on bare wood and then painting won't work very well. The wood soaks up too much primer and paint. It gets heavier the more primer and paint you put on it trying to make it look right.
In my opinion, the best primers and paint that are fuelproof are automotive paints and these will give superior results assuming that you have gained experience and technique in spaying your paint. You did not say whether you will be spraying with a compressor and spray gun or whether you will be using aerosol cans. Best results will be obtained with the spray gun but if you are very careful and very patient, you can get good results with a spray can. Many automotive paint retailers can put their paint in aerosol cans if you ask them.
PPG and DuPont make very good automotive paint.
In my opinion, the best primers and paint that are fuelproof are automotive paints and these will give superior results assuming that you have gained experience and technique in spaying your paint. You did not say whether you will be spraying with a compressor and spray gun or whether you will be using aerosol cans. Best results will be obtained with the spray gun but if you are very careful and very patient, you can get good results with a spray can. Many automotive paint retailers can put their paint in aerosol cans if you ask them.
PPG and DuPont make very good automotive paint.
03-04-2003 | 03:12 AM
#4
My Feedback: (8)
sheeted plane primer
If you want it to look right, especially for the long term, the secret is in the surface preparation. To have a good looking, long lasting finish, bare wood needs to be fiberglassed. It really isn't that difficult to do. I remember before someone showed me how easy it was I was scared to try it.
A little war story. I thought I could skip the fiberglassing of a new Jemco Zero by thoroughly sanding the wood with progressively finer grits of paper until the balsa nearly shined. I then applied an epoxy type primer over that and after sanding, it looked absolutely great. Painted it with a light gray epoxy. The plane looked absolutely great for the first few flights. Then I noticed cracking in the paint. Before long there were cracks all over the plane to the point it became nasty looking.
Take the time to glass it and assure yourself of a lasting finish or risk having cracks.
A little war story. I thought I could skip the fiberglassing of a new Jemco Zero by thoroughly sanding the wood with progressively finer grits of paper until the balsa nearly shined. I then applied an epoxy type primer over that and after sanding, it looked absolutely great. Painted it with a light gray epoxy. The plane looked absolutely great for the first few flights. Then I noticed cracking in the paint. Before long there were cracks all over the plane to the point it became nasty looking.
Take the time to glass it and assure yourself of a lasting finish or risk having cracks.
03-07-2003 | 05:36 PM
#5
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From: Jasper,
AL
sheeted plane primer
>Take the time to glass it and assure yourself of a lasting finish or risk having cracks.
Agreed! A .5 or .75 ounce glas cloth applied with finishing resin with light primer and paint will add neglibible weight (over just covering) and greatly increase strength and durability. And those areas that need protection from hangar rash or landing damage or strengthening can get an extra layer or two of cloth.
Properly sanded and filled and sanded, glas makes for a perfect painting surface.
Agreed! A .5 or .75 ounce glas cloth applied with finishing resin with light primer and paint will add neglibible weight (over just covering) and greatly increase strength and durability. And those areas that need protection from hangar rash or landing damage or strengthening can get an extra layer or two of cloth.
Properly sanded and filled and sanded, glas makes for a perfect painting surface.
