Problem with Lustrecoat paint
#1
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From: MOUNT OLIVE,
NC
Just painted an aluminum landing gear with the wheel pants attached. Problem is, the aluminum gear turned out great,but the fiberglass wheel pants have a lighter glaze, almost white. By the way, the color is insignia blue and it was as dry as a bone, no humidity at all, temperaure about 80 degrees. I have never had this problem before. Thanks for your help.
#3
Junior Member
I had the same problem with lustercote on aluminum gear (preped by acid wash, alodyne (sp?), and zinc cr. primer. Finished prep with white lustercote primer. Plenty of time between prosesses) painted Royal Blue. Paint dried blue but with a white haze. In my case it turned out to be humidity. I know you said that wasn't the issue but maybe worth a second look.
Don't know if you've seen this website (link provided by another RCU member) but there is plenty on good info including some pics of paint drying with a white haze.
http://www.monokote.com/lustrekote/p...r7200tip1.html
Cheers
Don't know if you've seen this website (link provided by another RCU member) but there is plenty on good info including some pics of paint drying with a white haze.
http://www.monokote.com/lustrekote/p...r7200tip1.html
Cheers
#4
Even when humidity isn't high I've had problems when spraying outside in very warm weather. The problem is condensation resulting from cold propellant from the rattle can (propellant acts like a refrigerant absorbing a huge amount of heat when it suddenly changes to a gaseous state) and even bringing the surface to be sprayed outside from an air conditioned house just before painting. Try shooting inside. Or you can allow your parts to heat up outside first and use an airbrush with compressor and water trap. Spraying the rattle can paint through a straw into an airbrush jar can also allow the propellant to outgas eliminating all those tiny air bubbles that show up on a wet painted surface. Hope this helps!
#5

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You guy's are painting in too much humidity. I am in south Florida, the humidity capital of the world. I use Lustr-Coat and do have the same problems. It has to be good warm sunny day, best aroud 2:00 PM. Good prep, and only spray on light coats to finish.
You can go heavy on the last coat. When you get the blush, which is the white talked about, let it dry. Wet sand this with #2000, then hit is with clear coat. Do not get in a hurry with this type of paint. One area to pay attention to, is to let the can's sit outside in the sun for about an hour before painting. If you are taking the cans from an air-conditioned room, then outside to spray, that is a problem. Get the cans up to temp, same as the outside. Attached a few pictures of Lustre-Coat painting.
The wing and stab in this Intruder is MonoKote.
Crankpin
You can go heavy on the last coat. When you get the blush, which is the white talked about, let it dry. Wet sand this with #2000, then hit is with clear coat. Do not get in a hurry with this type of paint. One area to pay attention to, is to let the can's sit outside in the sun for about an hour before painting. If you are taking the cans from an air-conditioned room, then outside to spray, that is a problem. Get the cans up to temp, same as the outside. Attached a few pictures of Lustre-Coat painting.
The wing and stab in this Intruder is MonoKote.
Crankpin
#6
Yes it sounds like blushing/blooming.Toss the aerosols and use a small spraygun.This will allow you to use slow thinner or retarder if nessesary.




