Checkerboard Covering
#1
Thread Starter

Does anyone have any tips for creating a checkerboard with any of the heat shrink films. I'm looking to go with a green/white check but dont want to buy an entire roll of the stufff... (under wings, stab)
I was thinking covering in white.. then cutting checks (square holes in the green piece) and laying that sheet on top? (I think I'd be going through a lot of blades and maybe out of my mind too [X(] )
Thanks,
Mike
I was thinking covering in white.. then cutting checks (square holes in the green piece) and laying that sheet on top? (I think I'd be going through a lot of blades and maybe out of my mind too [X(] )
Thanks,
Mike
#2

My Feedback: (90)
Not that hard to do. Decide what size check you want I.E 3 inches, make a 3" wide ruler plus a 3" checker template. Cut a strip and then use your 3" checker template to cut individual pieces. You will then have to perhaps make some edge pieces, you know the less then full checks. Take a dry erase fine pen and make sure that you get a dead straight line where ever your going to start on the wing. Place the first one in position and if using monokote use a mixture of water and windex and place in position and make sure that you squeezee out all that liquid and move on to the next one. Use your 3" square check as a spacer and place the next one in position and so on and so forth. When completed walk away from it for a day untill everything is completely dry. You'll find that the checkers seem to be completely sealed to the base. Use your iron at the lowest setting and go over them and your done. Personally I use trim monokote for the checkers and water and Windex.
One thing you should know , all coverings if layered upon another and hit with fuel will over time start to come up.Your recourse is to topcoat them with a clear spray or if none is available then a good waxing and continued applications after each session will do the trick
One thing you should know , all coverings if layered upon another and hit with fuel will over time start to come up.Your recourse is to topcoat them with a clear spray or if none is available then a good waxing and continued applications after each session will do the trick
#3
Thread Starter

ORIGINAL: dennis
Not that hard to do. Decide what size check you want I.E 3 inches, make a 3" wide ruler plus a 3" checker template. Cut a strip and then use your 3" checker template to cut individual pieces. You will then have to perhaps make some edge pieces, you know the less then full checks. Take a dry erase fine pen and make sure that you get a dead straight line where ever your going to start on the wing. Place the first one in position and if using monokote use a mixture of water and windex and place in position and make sure that you squeezee out all that liquid and move on to the next one. Use your 3" square check as a spacer and place the next one in position and so on and so forth. When completed walk away from it for a day untill everything is completely dry. You'll find that the checkers seem to be completely sealed to the base. Use your iron at the lowest setting and go over them and your done. Personally I use trim monokote for the checkers and water and Windex.
One thing you should know , all coverings if layered upon another and hit with fuel will over time start to come up.Your recourse is to topcoat them with a clear spray or if none is available then a good waxing and continued applications after each session will do the trick
Not that hard to do. Decide what size check you want I.E 3 inches, make a 3" wide ruler plus a 3" checker template. Cut a strip and then use your 3" checker template to cut individual pieces. You will then have to perhaps make some edge pieces, you know the less then full checks. Take a dry erase fine pen and make sure that you get a dead straight line where ever your going to start on the wing. Place the first one in position and if using monokote use a mixture of water and windex and place in position and make sure that you squeezee out all that liquid and move on to the next one. Use your 3" square check as a spacer and place the next one in position and so on and so forth. When completed walk away from it for a day untill everything is completely dry. You'll find that the checkers seem to be completely sealed to the base. Use your iron at the lowest setting and go over them and your done. Personally I use trim monokote for the checkers and water and Windex.
One thing you should know , all coverings if layered upon another and hit with fuel will over time start to come up.Your recourse is to topcoat them with a clear spray or if none is available then a good waxing and continued applications after each session will do the trick
Ok... thanks..... hmmm bigger squares, less work... I was looking for green / white checkerboard trim sheet but cannot find [&o] Iguess I could iron on a sheet of clear overtop the checkerboards?? Mike
#4
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From: Nevada City ,
CA
Would probably be hard to lay down clear covering over checkers without getting wrinkles... not to mention extra weight. What I do with things like this (though tedious) is run clear nail polish over the leading edge of the trim pieces. keeps the edge down, and the fuel out of the gap, and so far, no discoloration.
#5
Thread Starter

ORIGINAL: BadSplice
Would probably be hard to lay down clear covering over checkers without getting wrinkles... not to mention extra weight. What I do with things like this (though tedious) is run clear nail polish over the leading edge of the trim pieces. keeps the edge down, and the fuel out of the gap, and so far, no discoloration.
Would probably be hard to lay down clear covering over checkers without getting wrinkles... not to mention extra weight. What I do with things like this (though tedious) is run clear nail polish over the leading edge of the trim pieces. keeps the edge down, and the fuel out of the gap, and so far, no discoloration.
Mike
#6

My Feedback: (9)
Save yourself a headache and buy the Ultra Cote red/white checker. It comes in 1",2" and 4". For $25 it will be a bargain compared to laying it out by hand. If you do decide to lay it out by hand. Put the white down first and use Windex to lay down the red squares.
David
David
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From: Kaiapoi, NEW ZEALAND
hey.. man just go buy the covering that is all ready done for you and stick it on. oracover have several different pattern/colours ..all fuel proof as well.
#9
Thread Starter

yeah.. like free bird says... I was looking for the covering at the LHS but he didnt have it... I was thinking of the sheets but a crash would have me spending another chunk for another sheet and I need to put down covering first anyway... sooooo i guess i'll pick up some check covering.
Thanks for the info. I do like how the checks on some planes have that bent look... so down the road i'll try the windex and the individual pieces. That would be easier for me than glassing and painting, etc. etc..
Mike
Thanks for the info. I do like how the checks on some planes have that bent look... so down the road i'll try the windex and the individual pieces. That would be easier for me than glassing and painting, etc. etc..
Mike
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From: OZark,
MO
ORIGINAL: mintie
hey.. man just go buy the covering that is all ready done for you and stick it on. oracover have several different pattern/colours ..all fuel proof as well.
hey.. man just go buy the covering that is all ready done for you and stick it on. oracover have several different pattern/colours ..all fuel proof as well.

#12
Thread Starter

ORIGINAL: Tall Paul
Small checkerboards vanish into mush at flying altitudes.
Small checkerboards vanish into mush at flying altitudes.
Mike
#13
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: KitBuilder
True.. I like the bigger squares, maybe 2 inch so not so busy looking. To me anyway.
Mike
ORIGINAL: Tall Paul
Small checkerboards vanish into mush at flying altitudes.
Small checkerboards vanish into mush at flying altitudes.
Mike
And actually, so do big squares.
On small things like model airplanes, the color can't be identified by the human eye after something like 400-600'. They go to grayscale. All checkerboarding does for you is make the grayscale result a lighter gray.



