lomcevek1

I stumbled across this while trying to put a fairly complicated design on my PRIMO. So I thought I would share it with you. Hope you can use it, and if you do post pics when your done.

[link=http://youtube.com/watch?v=8NhLZ-4V1pM]MONOKOTE 301[/link]

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

That's amazing. Why haven't I thought of this before? By the way, I have found that Xylene will cut the color/glue of MonoKote and all the other coverings I've used. It works similar to Trim Solvent but I've had better luck with it. The other solvents such as Acetone, MEK, Laquer thinner, etc. don't seem to work. But, Xylene woks great. Be sure to let it dry overnight.

lomcevek1

XYLENE Huh ??? That would be useful to experiment with as the windex does not work with ultracoat. Down side is Xylene is nasty stuff. I use trim solvent very sparingly cause it is really easy to use too much and wash away the color and the adhesive leaving a clear piece of plastic !!!

Jester241

Wow,thats awesome. Thanks lomcevek! Because I really enjoy covering,I'm sure I will no doubt be using this trick in the future.

I do have a question though regarding the use of trim solvent. You mentioned to go over the edges of the work at the end with trim solvent or just hit it with the iron to seal everything down properly. I've never used trim solvent,and wonder just what you mean by "go over the edges with trim solvent" Would you just carefully brush some on the the edges of the black decal and the solvent would soak into the adhesive under the decal itself and bond it? And does trim solvent only activate the adhesive and it wont disolve the covering?

So basically if I'm correct,trim solvent works the same way as windex only better maybe?

lomcevek1

Trim solvent is a HIGHLY agrresive version of windex. if you rub an almost invisible layer and stick some monokote to it it is there to stay. So the downside is that you only have one shot. Other down side is if you use too much then the colors will just wash away.

You did bring up a good point. I will make another vid describing how. But in short to answer your question you just run a moist Q-tip across the edge.

Jester241

cool,thanks for the explanation. [8D]

dbacque

My Feedback: (3)

Wow, that's incredible! I never would have thought of Press & Seal and the heat gun idea is great.

Thanks, I will use this one!

Dave

fozjared

great video man way to put the time into helping others!!

Don41

Excellent!! I just viewed it for the third time because I wanted to make sure I "have" it.

It appears that you can't save this video to your home computer. Any chance you could post it somewhere where we can download it?

Thanks again.

John Sohm

My Feedback: (9)

I actually used Press & Seal as a masking material for spraypainting those GWS foam fighters. Used it on the canopy since it's easy to cut and peal after painting and also for markings and id bands and such. Works good. I did not know about the heat trick though, gonna have to put that in my memory for future use.

rwright142

Excellent vid... Thanks!

JustErik

You can go here to learn how to download vids from youtube.

Edit: OOPS! Apparently that method no longer works. Here are more options.

Don41

Thanks for the tip.

Downloading this type of app makes me nervous but I'll do some searching,,, see if there are any reports of hijacking or viruses.

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

Everyone,

Lomcevak is correct about Xylene being nasty stuff. So are all the other solvents I mentioned. I always use chemical gloves and a paint filter mask when using any of this stuff. (Maybe that's why several of my modeler friends appear to be brain damaged!) Also a fan blowing a little air through my shop. All of this stuff will melt latex gloves! Also most people don't realize that these chemicals absorb through the skin in addition to harming your lungs. Be careful and don't use them in an area with a water heater pilot light!

Paul

lomcevek1

I am also an aircraft mechanic so I have almost too easy access to each of those chemicals, And I hate using all of them.

I am curious though to see how well it will work on ultracote. Too bad I don't have any around.

MasterAlex

Thank You, Thank You Lomcevek![sm=thumbup.gif]

Sometimes its tough to see the forrest for the trees, but that was brilliant! Thanks for sharing.

-MA

lomcevek1

Thank you very much.

I have tried to explain tings using pictures and such, But I went back and watched that video I made and after thinking OMG I am such a dork. I realized that a ten minute video really does explain a lot.

bassfisher

My Feedback: (21)

Great tip and video - I guess that even this old dog can learn a new trick or too!!

longdan

That is so cool! I've always wanted to put 'out there' designs on my planes, but have always been limited to basic shapes that i could easily cut directly onto the moneycote. This opens up a whole new world for me. The guys at the field are gonna be green with envy when I show up with some of the stuff I have in mind. Thanks!!

Lman

My Feedback: (1)

Great tip and video thanks.

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

will this work with solartex also ?

dr_wogz

My Feedback: (3)

That is a super video. Mucho thanks!

For Ultracoat users: A low heat iron also will stick the Ultra to the glass. At least, from my experiments.

The press & seal is sure cheaper than commercial 'tranfer tape'!!

Gringo Flyer

My Feedback: (18)

Thats great.

I have never used trim solvent when using the windex method. I give it a couple of days to let it dry really well and then I use a trim iron set to low and just hit the edges lightly. I havent had any problems with bubbling or wrinkling when apply the heat (very little pressure and heat is the trick... just enough to activate the glue) Even more, I havent had any problems with it peeling later.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

Well day-gum, that was cool! Nice job.

bla bla

Good job man!
Very useful.