Throttlr Set-up Proceedure
#1
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From: Glendale,
AZ
I need the proper proceedure for setting up the throttle on my RC plane. I have a Futaba 9 CAP radio and I'm using a Futaba 3152 for my throttle servo. What I want is... You do this first, then you do this, then this...etc. I need to use end-points and a throttle-cut in the proceedure. Any and all help will be fully appreciated.
Thanx!
Thanx!
#2
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First, set your End Points to 100% both ways. The TX trim should be centered. Fit your servo arm and carburetor linkage at full throttle. The servo arm should be about 45 degrees off center on the servo. Now, lower the throttle stick and watch the carb barrel. When it gets to the "idle" position, adjust the ATV so it limits the movement to that. The trim travel should be enough to raise the idle if needed and cut the engine off when lowered. Since the ATV usually goes 120%, you can fine tune the top end if necessary.
Dr.1
Dr.1
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From: Cape Spencer,
NB, CANADA
I set my ATV's at 100% to start.
I select a servo arm that rotates equal distance from center each way, with center placing the arm at 90 degrees to the control rod.
I set my throttle stick to dead idle, and lower the trim all the way. I adjust the throttle arm on the engine so the barrel is a couple degrees past full closed (no air opening visible).
I test fit a control rod, and determine which holes in the 2 arms will work best. I try to be at the outtermost hole on the engine's horn, and change the servo hole as required.
Once I've figured out what holes will be used, I cut the control rod to an appropriate length, and install it. With trims lowered, I use the atv to be sure the engine will shut down. Then I put the trim in a middle position and make sure the throttle barrel is now open a bit. Revisit the previous steps as required if it's not.
Now I advance the throttle wide open. I check that the barrel is indeed wide open. I use the ATV to correct it if it's not quite open, or if the servo's buzzing.
This has worked pretty well for me on all my engines so far. Never need more than a couple percent of ATV, and if you're really careful, it may not be necessary at all.
I always use nyrod for throttle, with no metal to metal links at the engine end. If the trottle arm's metal, use a plastic clevis or something. Helps prevent RF.
First time I run the engine up, I may discover that some small changes to the idle setting may be required, adjust the rod length and atv settings a point or 2 to fix. Full throttle should be just that, trim mid position should be at the engine's lower stable rpm range (for landings), trim up should give a fast idle (for aerobatics without fear of flameout), trim full down should stop the engine quickly (none of this turning a couple hundred rpm, loping along for 30 seconds till she finally quits... Just a couple % more atv would fix that...)
Never restrict the throttle movement with the idle stop screw! Always be able to shut down the engine from the transmitter. This pinchin' fuel lines and fingers on spinners stuff is for the birds. Fingers don't grow back.
Have fun!
J
I select a servo arm that rotates equal distance from center each way, with center placing the arm at 90 degrees to the control rod.
I set my throttle stick to dead idle, and lower the trim all the way. I adjust the throttle arm on the engine so the barrel is a couple degrees past full closed (no air opening visible).
I test fit a control rod, and determine which holes in the 2 arms will work best. I try to be at the outtermost hole on the engine's horn, and change the servo hole as required.
Once I've figured out what holes will be used, I cut the control rod to an appropriate length, and install it. With trims lowered, I use the atv to be sure the engine will shut down. Then I put the trim in a middle position and make sure the throttle barrel is now open a bit. Revisit the previous steps as required if it's not.
Now I advance the throttle wide open. I check that the barrel is indeed wide open. I use the ATV to correct it if it's not quite open, or if the servo's buzzing.
This has worked pretty well for me on all my engines so far. Never need more than a couple percent of ATV, and if you're really careful, it may not be necessary at all.
I always use nyrod for throttle, with no metal to metal links at the engine end. If the trottle arm's metal, use a plastic clevis or something. Helps prevent RF.
First time I run the engine up, I may discover that some small changes to the idle setting may be required, adjust the rod length and atv settings a point or 2 to fix. Full throttle should be just that, trim mid position should be at the engine's lower stable rpm range (for landings), trim up should give a fast idle (for aerobatics without fear of flameout), trim full down should stop the engine quickly (none of this turning a couple hundred rpm, loping along for 30 seconds till she finally quits... Just a couple % more atv would fix that...)
Never restrict the throttle movement with the idle stop screw! Always be able to shut down the engine from the transmitter. This pinchin' fuel lines and fingers on spinners stuff is for the birds. Fingers don't grow back.
Have fun!
J



