jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

I want to post mount a small metal Perfect fuel tank by drilling a hole in one side, and placing a brass screw through the inside to a hole in the other side and then solder it. It will make a threaded stud on the outside of the tank, and more secure than just sticking it to the outside.

One of my questions is, what would be good to use as a small lid for the access hole? It will be used as a KB 3.5 Outboard oil resevoir for the lower unit, and needs to be filled with thick oil occasionally, so just a lid would be nice instead of having to pump it through an existing fuel tube so instead of soldering a patch over it, I can use it for filling.

I thought of using a Oiler Cup but looking through McMaster-Carr all are too large. The smallest has a 1/4" neck diameter which would be half the size of this tank [sm=bananahead.gif]

I have seen small ones but only installed. Anyone have an idea where I can find a miniature oiler cup with the spring lid? One that isn't stainless so I can solder it?

A regular, small screw on cap would be the best, even if it involves making a neck for it to screw into, then soldered.

Also thought of using a plastic ball point pen end cap off a common Bic pen, but those are made to sit flush and not easy to pull off, but are common pipe plugs.

Maybe a brass eyelette dropped into the hole and soldered, and then just a small cork? I really dont like the thought of using a cork because those can get lost inside the tank if they are close to being too small.

Also, whats the best way to do any soldering on these so the whole thing doesnt come apart? I am going to have to cap off some tubes or remove them and solder them closed, and shorten one of the tubes inside for the tank for it to work properly.

Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

Cool idea!!!

If you know a machinist you can get some very small tapered plugs that come on the end of the small plastic tubes that they sell endmills and cutting tools in. They come in all different sizes 1/8 dia should do it for you. Maybe use a small length of brass tubing soldered on the top/lid and carve a nice wooden plug out of a dowel. You could use a short length of chain and a "V" shaped wire to keep it from getting lost. Kind of like the old Outboard motor gas tanks used to use on the gas caps to keep them from going overboard or getting lost.

Those Perfect tanks are tin plated and will solder up real nice. Use an iron so you can control the heat alittle better than a torch. Clean everything and use flux where you want the solder to stick. I'll bet you could use a paper hole puncher to punch a nice clean hole through the lid, solder it from the back side and then solder the lid back on.

Find an old zippo lighter, the brass tube that holds the flints has a screw down top...you'll kill the lighter but gain an oil tank. smiles
Good Job...smiles

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks John,

I know a machinist personally but rarely find time at work to make anything cause I'm usually there ten hours a day and want to get home at the end of the day, and calling off sick to sneak away to do it wouldn't work too well.[sm=omg_smile.gif]

You have good ideas though. I liked what you said about the safety chain. I had thought of the same thing thinking of how tanks were actually built and remembered those on outboard tanks. It is not a bad idea since the cap is small, and your doing everything outside in the grass, plus it's around oil. Not a good combo for keeping it safe.

I think the brass eyelette would be cool with the wooden plug. At least its solid enough to sink a wire into to make an eye for the safety chain.

Does this mean I have to buy a pencil sharpener to make dowel plugs? It would be nice to have a small neck pointing up for the plug to slide into though, just so it raises the plug up enough for your fingers to grab. Hard to think of how to do it with the brass eyelette.

I'll have to find a few different sizes and then stand by the K&S display matching things up. Maybe a piece of tubing slid down inside it, but that just leaves a square corner at the top for the plug. That is why the eyelette is nice, it has a good radius around the lip, plus with it extending down into the tank a little makes it an anti-splash filler neck. [sm=shades_smile.gif] Reminds me to drill a small air hole near the flange so I can fill past the bottom of the tube.

It would need a weep hole to for some air as it empties. Keeping it in the cap is a good idea because I might want to try using exhaust pressure on it to help push the oil. A screw on metal cap still would be nice. I even thought of turning down a bike tire cap and chopping off some valve stem off an innertube. Arent those brass? Either way they are a little on the large size for the size of this tank.

It's a funny thing you should mention zippo lighters I just gave two brand new ones away that were given to me. Ugg![sm=crying.gif]

I thought of using an old needle valve assembly using the needle barrel as the cap with the needle taken out of it and cut down smaller just for the threads, and the needle valve body cut for the neck, but haven't any in stock.

pub

Well,the way I see it is,First it is not the Perfect tank,you want to modify it.You are able to solder the mods you want ,so why not make the tank you want?I must be missing something.------------------------------- pub

Broken Wings

My Feedback: (20)

"Perfect" is a brand name. They made control line model fuel tanks. That's what he is trying to modify to made his oil tank for the lower unit.

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I guess why I don't is because without a small hand brake, good tin snips or a sharp vise to bend corners with isn't around, and the tank already is. I just have to drill two holes and solder a cap of some sort, and draw out one of the tubes and re-solder it so the pickup is where it should be.

This time "Perfect" missed their mark on getting one to come right out of the box for me to use with cap and threaded stud already installed. I guess it isn't "perfect" this time around until its been modified.

I still would like to see someone roll up with an oiler cup that has that spring loaded flip lid thats smaller than I can find.

pub

call this person,he has 3/16 oil cups 978 649 7879. pub

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Try an oiler cup for model steam engines. They come in many sizes, some quite small:

http://www.colespowermodels.com/accessories.htm

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Well, today I have time to scout parts. I think a trip to Ace hardware before I have to dig deeper with the help you guys gave. Seems the oiler cup is the most logical choice here, but a screw-on cap still could be more flashy.

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

I think I changed my mind on using a cap. Since I am going to probably run exhaust pressure to the tank for it to work better, and a line will be going to it for that, I should make it like a PCV valve in a car with a rubber grommet and a 90 degree fitting that can be pressed in it.

I already tried a 90 degree pressure fitting inside a servo grommet but it is a bit too tight even if I rounded the barb, so I'll look for other grommets instead of the cap at the hardware store.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

You said McMaster-Carr didn't have any small caps but I was just on there looking and they have one with a 5mm screw in base. 5mm is pretty small.
Part #: 1319K51

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Found them even smaller! 1/8" is smaller than 5mm.

# 1229K18

Gollywock

I believe that filler you were looking for is called a 'Gits Cap'. check here http://www.gitsmfg.com/oil-hole-covers.asp Jim

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Gollywock: Thanks for that. Learned a new term. Interesting history of this company. I can use these caps myself on model boats. I like this one a lot:

http://www.gitsmfg.com/oil-hole-covers-Style-RS-Top.asp