Andy McC

I am using an on board glow. I am just using a battery and a switch so that the glow in on all the time. The extra weight of the battery was useful. I used the wires from a commercial remote glow lead, however, it fell apart after a few flights. So does anyone have a tip on how to make a good connector for the glow plug. Thanks in anticipation.

Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

Andy, I simply used a small alligator clip.

DelRay

Andy, I have used a small wheel set collar with the plug wire soldered to it, naturally the collar will have to be made of steel or brass to be soldered to. I used a small piece of .030 sheet plastic with a hole in it for the plug contact to go through. I cut this in a small disc shape , it keeps the collar from shorting out on the glo plug base.You should be able to find all this stuff in your miscellaneous box.

I also used a small micro switch that was actuated via the throttle servo through a linkage to set the on and off set points of the power to the glow plug. I had a master power switch ahead of the micro to shut the entire system off. Simple, but it worked.

seanreit

My Feedback: (60)

Sorry for such a newbie question, but do any of you guys use higher voltage packs and use some type of regulator to bring the voltage down to what's required for the glow plug?

I'm designing a prop plane and I would like to have an extra lead of the primary pack to run the glow. I typically use 7.4 volt Lithium Ion packs through regulators for receiver packs.

Andy McC

Guys, thanks for the answers, I was affraid that a crocodile clip would come of in flight and short/spark against the engine with possible consequences for radio problems. Did you modify yours john. Del the plastic disc is a nice idea.

The Ghost

I would set it up as DelRay has or buy a onboard glow unit that is adj or you will be running the motor lean or blowing glow plugs as the engine advance is controlled by the heat of the glow plug.

Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

Andy, my system has not run yet so I can't say that it won't be affected by vibration. Being spring loaded, I think it will resist coming off. The clip is not modified. It just grabs the glow plug stem and the ribs on the stem keep it in place. It is a remote glow connector rather than an on board sytem with a battery. My plan is to open the cowl door (hinges to swing up to open and held closed with two rare earth magnets), plug in the glow driver to start and remove the glow driver.

jetmech05

on board glow systems are pretty cheap...and can be set to come on at any throttle setting.....I use one on my 150 size P-47 no dead sticks yet

caribefoto

My Feedback: (2)

Have a look at the Nelson Hobby website. He sells a glodriver that repeatedly reads the resistance, and thus the temp, of the element and only boosts when the element cools. It's available for singles or twins and has an option for a tightly attached plug clamp. Perhaps a bit pricey for some, but preventing just one deadstick in crosswind or downwind conditions might be worth a few extra bucks....John

buzzingb

My Feedback: (2)

You can buy these connectory pretty cheap but I made one out of a hair pin cutt of and rebent and soldered a wire to it. Like someone mentioned earlier use a plastic disk to act as an insulator between the connector and glow plug to prevent shorts. I used a nylon washer I already had.

AA5BY

My method is to use a piece of brass tubing that will just slide over the plug. Using a pair of small bull nose pliers, crimp into the tubing only slightly till a fit is made that locks onto the glow plug pin. After this is soldered onto the wire, cover with heat shrink so that if it should come loose, it won't short out.